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Stickley #369 Morris Chair #3: Slant Arms and Side Slats

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Blog entry by pintodeluxe posted 179 days ago 1084 reads 0 times favorited 4 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 2: Frame Assembly and Through Tenons Part 3 of Stickley #369 Morris Chair series Part 4: Ladder Back »

This is how the Morris chair looks at this stage.

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I wanted to drill all the 5/8” holes for the backrest assembly before the glueup. It seems like this step would be easy to forget, so I’ll take care of it now.

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There are a lot of odds and ends to take care of before glueup, including easing edges of the parts at the router table.

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Now the side assembly can be dry fit.

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Note that the angled top side rails are 1/4” taller than the shoulders of the leg tenons. This extra height will fit into a groove on the underside of the armrests.

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In the last segment we built the slanted armrests. Now we can clean up the top and bottom of the armrest with a block plane and sanding blocks. As you flatten the short terminus of the armrest, check the fit frequently. You want the armrest to sit flat on the shoulders of the leg tenons.

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Don’t be tempted to clean up the edge of the armrest with a hand plane. Instead take it to the jointer for a light pass. Then re-establish parallel at the tablesaw with a skim pass. Taking your time here will help improve the accuracy when laying out the mortise locations in the armrests.

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While the 5/8” drill bit is still chucked in the drill press, I drill 1-3/4” deep holes for the backrest stop pegs. You’ll want to take care of this operation before the armrests are tapered.

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Use the tenons themselves to layout the mortise locations in the armrests.

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The rear mortises are angled to 7 degrees, so I used the cutoffs from my side rails to make a ramp. A piece of plywood brad nailed to angled boards completes the ramp. I don’t glue the parts together, because I will need the angled pieces as clamping cauls for my side assembly glueup later.

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Mortising the armrest. I leave the layout line, and fine tune the mortise with chisels and sanding blocks.

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I start with the front mortise, working up to the pencil line. I turn the armrest 180 degrees to check the fit periodically. This allows me to size the front mortise independently. Once the front mortise slides 2/3 of the way over the tenon, I turn the armrest into its correct position and work on the rear mortise.

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The chisel work involves tapering the mortise wall slightly to ease the fit. Very little work is done on the tenons, other than a light sanding. Once the armrests are fit, mark the intersection of the armrest and the angled side rails with a pencil (underside of armrests).

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Use the pencil marks you just made to cut a groove on the underside of the armrest. This groove will receive the upper side rail. Although it adds to the structure of the assembly, this is primarily to avoid seeing daylight under the armrest.
Make sure to get a groove fully 1/4” deep. The router tends to lift up as you traverse the bent section of the arm. I simply increased the bit height in that section until I achieved the required depth.

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Figure on a day to shape and fit the armrests. Because it is largely done with hand tools, it takes some time.

Next up will be chamfering the through tenons, and building the ladder back assembly.
Cheers!

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush



4 comments so far

View CJIII's profile

CJIII

72 posts in 238 days


#1 posted 178 days ago

Looks good!

-- Woodworking with Limited Tools

View AandCstyle's profile

AandCstyle

1288 posts in 890 days


#2 posted 178 days ago

Excellent!

-- Art

View BigRedKnothead's profile

BigRedKnothead

4755 posts in 615 days


#3 posted 178 days ago

More great work. It’s interesting to see how we differ in our little processes.

-- Red -- "That the powerful play goes on, and you may contribute a verse." W. Whitman

View SPalm's profile

SPalm

4791 posts in 2515 days


#4 posted 178 days ago

Dang that is looking good.
What a massive build this is.

Steve

-- -- I'm no rocket surgeon

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