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Arts and Crafts Nightstand #4: Tops, Drawer Fronts, and Corbels

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Blog entry by pintodeluxe posted 416 days ago 1288 reads 1 time favorited 6 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 3: Dovetails Part 4 of Arts and Crafts Nightstand series Part 5: Finishing, Cam Lock, and Drawer Installation »

This is the nightstand project…

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Panel glueup for the tops. I do my glueups in two stages. First I glue two pairs of boards together to make planks. Then I send them through the planer while they are still narrow enough to fit. Finally I glue these two planks together to make a panel. I describe flat panel construction in detail in my dresser blog… http://lumberjocks.com/pintodeluxe/blog/33797

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A pair of rough glueups complete.

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I made a template for the corbels, with the intention of pattern routing them. However the parts were pretty small (only 2.75”x7”) so I sanded them to shape with an oscillating belt sander. Then it was back to the bandsaw to notch the corbels around the groove in the legs. Notice the stop block for repeated cuts.

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Here you can see why the notches are helpful to fit the corbels.

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Corbels fit snugly in the grooves.

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Corbel dry fitting. I always wait until the top is fitted before installing the corbels. This will ensure a tight fit, with no unsightly gaps.

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Now I make some support blocks for the drawer slides. I am mindful to attach to the legs only – not the panels – to avoid restricting seasonal movement. This is one drawback I suppose, with this type of cabinet. On cabinets where the panel is flush with the inside edges of the legs, no support block is required. I wanted a panel setback of 1/4” to match the dressers, so I opted for this approach.

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Test fitting Centerline slides.

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Trimming panels to length. Make sure to rip panels to width before squaring the ends, otherwise one or more cuts may not be square.

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Test fitting drawers, sans drawer fronts.

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Test fitting drawer fronts.

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Next up is sanding the tops and drawer fronts, applying a finish, and giving the drawers a good shellac-ing.
Finish for the nightstands will be oil based stain and sprayed lacquer.
Cheers!

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush



6 comments so far

View BigRedKnothead's profile

BigRedKnothead

4404 posts in 580 days


#1 posted 416 days ago

Nice job brother. I always pick up a little somethin’ from your blogs.

-- Red -- "There's nothin' in the world so sad as talking to a man, who never knew his life was his for making." Ray LamMontagne

View HillbillyShooter's profile (online now)

HillbillyShooter

4348 posts in 890 days


#2 posted 416 days ago

Nice job—enjoying your progress blogs. One question: do you use any type of spacers on the bottom and sides when you fit and fasten your drawer fronts? I use strips of Matt board, but curious as to what your approach is.

-- John C. -- "Firearms are second only to the Constitution in importance; they are the peoples' liberty's teeth." George Washington

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

3268 posts in 1411 days


#3 posted 416 days ago

I just use thin strips of wood, cut to the thickness of my desired gap. Typically I shoot for a 3/32” gap. It seems to be the magic number. If you set a tight 1/16”, then any movement or sagging is very noticeable. On the other hand 1/8” seems like too big a gap to my eye.

Thanks

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View AandCstyle's profile

AandCstyle

1249 posts in 855 days


#4 posted 416 days ago

Looking good!

-- Art

View Handtooler's profile

Handtooler

1054 posts in 730 days


#5 posted 416 days ago

I’ve been saving the fake no name American Express credit cards to use as spacers. What say ye as to this for spacers????

-- Russell Pitner Hixson, TN 37343 bassboy40@msn.com

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

3268 posts in 1411 days


#6 posted 416 days ago

That would be a good use for credit cards!

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

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