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Arts and Crafts 6 Drawer Dresser #7: Clamshell Biscuits, And Building a Flat Top Panel

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Blog entry by pintodeluxe posted 01-07-2013 06:39 PM 3980 reads 4 times favorited 3 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 6: Web Frames Part 7 of Arts and Crafts 6 Drawer Dresser series Part 8: Backsplash Inlay and Trimming Top »

Here is the plan from my design. It incorporates some Stickley design elements.

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The dresser carcases are assembled, including the small divider that separates the top two drawers.

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The small dividers are attached with biscuits. To cut the slots, I opened the top two web frames like a clamshell. The web frames were aligned, and clamped together. Then I added an Emerson straightedge clamp, positioned to center the small divider on the web frame.

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The ruler on the Emerson clamp helps center the biscuit slot on the web frame members. Dust collection is excellent with a shop vacuum.

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- #20 biscuit slots cut, and ready for assembly. This is a great way to register the position of the divider, and makes assembly a snap.

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Small dividers installed.

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Through tenons on the lower front rail.

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Now I turn my attention to the tops. I label my workpieces with I’s and O’s. The “I” surfaces face inward toward the jointer fence. The “O” surfaces face outward, away from the jointer fence. This way any milling errors will be compensated for. It is worth the extra time to achieve a flat panel.

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Here the edges are freshly jointed.

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I need to glue 4 boards together to create the top panels. I like to break the glueup into two distinct phases. First I glue two pairs of boards together. I pay particular attention to the grain direction on the two pairs of boards. I want the grain oriented in the same direction so I don’t have any tearout once the sub-assemblies are run through the planer. Notice the two beads of glue. The middle joint is dry at this point. After checking the panel for flatness, I let the panel dry for a couple hours.

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I ran the two planks from the first glueup through the planer for uniform thickness. Next I glue the two planks together. Notice the single bead of glue.

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The stock has some pretty good figure for being red oak. I usually prefer white oak, however glueups with QSRO are great because the jointline seems to dissapear.

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Here is a mock-up of the top, which still needs to be trimmed to size.

Next up will be trimming tops to size, building angled backsplash detail, and installing filler strips for drawer slides.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush



3 comments so far

View Woodmaster1's profile

Woodmaster1

497 posts in 1272 days


#1 posted 01-07-2013 09:35 PM

What stain and finish do you use to make the rays stand out. I have been trying different things and
just have not found what I am looking for.

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

3439 posts in 1498 days


#2 posted 01-07-2013 09:51 PM

I don’t actually try to accentuate the ray flecks. I like it when the light hits a piece of furniture just right, and all the figure starts to show.
My finish is Rodda oil based stain, with two coats of satin pre-cat lacquer.
Some folks that really want to exagerate the look of the figure use dye, shellac, then lacquer or similar topcoat.
If you really like the figured look, the key is to start with white oak. The ray flecks in white oak tend to show through the finish more clearly.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View Woodmaster1's profile

Woodmaster1

497 posts in 1272 days


#3 posted 01-07-2013 10:11 PM

Thanks for the info.

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