I'm building a 384 sq. ft. (16×24 for ease of build) for mixed use. Everything will be setup to be easily moved out the double doors that lead to my trailer parking spot. It's going to be like a nicely setup storage area for all my tools when I'm not on a project.
I went with a 30" deep 12" round hole (used 100lb bags of concrete) for each footer. It was a two part pour with the footers first and then the piers, which are 8". There is a piece of rebar embedded in each footer for the 8" pier to hold on to. They stuck real good.
In the wet piers I put chain link fence rail pipe to hollow out the spot for the Simpson adjustable anchors which will hold two 2×12s that span 12'. A total of three 24' spans and twelve PT 2×12s will be used.
The joists will be 2×6 PT 16" OC.
The floor will be T/G 3/4" plywood.
After researching I found I could get away with no vapor barrier - so I dug up the grass and sprayed it all with killer.
I'm building a 384 sq. ft. (16×24 for ease of build) for mixed use. Everything will be setup to be easily moved out the double doors that lead to my trailer parking spot. It's going to be like a nicely setup storage area for all my tools when I'm not on a project.
I went with a 30" deep 12" round hole (used 100lb bags of concrete) for each footer. It was a two part pour with the footers first and then the piers, which are 8". There is a piece of rebar embedded in each footer for the 8" pier to hold on to. They stuck real good.
In the wet piers I put chain link fence rail pipe to hollow out the spot for the Simpson adjustable anchors which will hold two 2×12s that span 12'. A total of three 24' spans and twelve PT 2×12s will be used.
The joists will be 2×6 PT 16" OC.
The floor will be T/G 3/4" plywood.
After researching I found I could get away with no vapor barrier - so I dug up the grass and sprayed it all with killer.
A lot of progress. Starting the roof tomorrow. It will be a 2/12 metal roof on rafters/ridge board. 2×6 24" OC, plumb cut flush with the edge if the siding at the top plates. Just over an 8' span on the rafters. Simpson Hurricane ties to secure.
After that I'll put the trim on, install the window and doors, then insulate and add power.
This is my first structure and I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out. I am 3/8" out of square on the back, but for a shed/shop of this caliper I'm not too concerned at all.
I'll say this again - using 2×12s sistered up made the base of this build an absolute nightmare. I really should have used nice straight 2×12 beams, and suggest that to anyone who doesn't do this day in and day out. Those 2×12s sistered seemed impossible to get straight and at a true, planned, width of 16'.
Another thing I found to be a huge PITA was the T/G flooring. Much easier to buy a second layer for the added strength. I ended up cutting off the tongue and butting them up with a little space for expansion.
I got a nice big 72" wide window off good ol' Craig's List for 63.00. Nice wide 36" door for the front entry, and a 5' x 6'8" roll up door for the back side entrance.
I'm building a 384 sq. ft. (16×24 for ease of build) for mixed use. Everything will be setup to be easily moved out the double doors that lead to my trailer parking spot. It's going to be like a nicely setup storage area for all my tools when I'm not on a project.
I went with a 30" deep 12" round hole (used 100lb bags of concrete) for each footer. It was a two part pour with the footers first and then the piers, which are 8". There is a piece of rebar embedded in each footer for the 8" pier to hold on to. They stuck real good.
In the wet piers I put chain link fence rail pipe to hollow out the spot for the Simpson adjustable anchors which will hold two 2×12s that span 12'. A total of three 24' spans and twelve PT 2×12s will be used.
The joists will be 2×6 PT 16" OC.
The floor will be T/G 3/4" plywood.
After researching I found I could get away with no vapor barrier - so I dug up the grass and sprayed it all with killer.
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