rail and stile door on the table saw #1: here's my quick cab door version , JANICE !

This is a really nice thing to do for people. Step by step and great photos. Kudos!

-- jack -- ...measure once, curse twice!

That was quick, nice work. I like the way you use heart detail to cut out the knot. Looks good.

-- Z, Rockwall, TX

Janice will surely appreciate your nice tutorial. It was very well done (except for the particle board). We (I) forgive you. Just don’t sin again and all will be well. I’m in “criticism” mode this evening. Hope you don’t take it seriously. Have a nice day.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

David, this is a nice tutorial. It is well documented and explains the process well.

-- Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful- Joshua Marine

Thanks from someone not named Janice! But of course, every answer deserves two questions. I thought spaceballs were for expansion/contraction control, and they are 1/4”. Do you put them in both rails and stiles? Or just one of each, since the width is 1/8” less than total. Also, how long is the recommended tenon? Yours appear to be 1/2”?

I actually have a lot more questions, as I have only done mitered doors with biscuits, but these will do for now.

-- Wish I were Norm's Nephew

Nice blog David even I could follow it… LOL

-- Don't drink and use power tools @ lasercreationsbylarry.com.au

thank you all ,
nail , yes , i do 1/2” tenons , makes it easier to measure ,
i do the ‘space balls ’ space for 1/8” both sides and use them there , both sides ,
it centers the panel by squeezing them some .
for length i only go 1/16”overall , as wood doesn’t expand in length very much .
mike , i didn’t need a door , and grabbed what was handy , and hey , your critique is always welcome .

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

Oh wow, David. This is crazy! You are way to nice to go thru all of this! I should have just hired you, they’d be done already. I marked it as a favorite, this better not go away. Like I said, I have my homework to do. I’ll be looking at everyone’s suggestions. Thanks so much.

-- Janice

here are some of the options ,
they come in many profiles ,
and all require a router table ,
or a shaper to use ,
many different set-ups ,
and details .
for me only worth it if the client wants them ,
or if i have 30 or 50 to do .
that is a quarter lower left for scale .

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

great blog David even I can follow this and I don´t have a tablesaw
thank´s for sharing with us I will mark this just in case you never now:-)

Dennis

Very nice tutorial, David.
Easy to understand and follow.
If you don’t make it as a woodworker… try teaching!
Ellen

-- "Don't let the perfect be the enemy of the good." Voltaire

David::

I’ve always used the router to cut the stiles and rails. even when I make a flat cut like you. In that case I use 1/4” router bits for the M&T.

I love the cutouts. Would be great to do something like that for a pie chest.

-- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Southern Delaware soon moving to Virginia karsonwm@gmail.com †

Not all methods require a shaper/router table David :)

http://www.cabinetmaking.com/pages/raised_panel.htm

^ That’s how I’m making mine, as it gives the nice cove finish rather than just an angle, though of course you can always make the raised panels on the table saw with a simple bevel cut, as illustrated in one of Tommy MacDonald’s videos:

http://www.mlwwoodworking.com/blanket-chest-videos.html (videos 6 & 7, can’t link them directly).

Both methods do take more time, but I think they’re more interesting than simple flat panels. I’d like to start adding more molding around the inside edge as well, to dress them up without having to use rail/stile bits on a router (since I don’t have a variable speed router yet). The construction is simple using the table saw, especially if you have a dado blade (which I now do!). The mortise/tenon doors I’ve done to date were all done with a 1/4” bit on a router, so I’m hoping the dado will speed things up considerably (and accurately).

-- The difference between being defeated and admitting defeat is what makes all the difference in the world - Upton Sinclair, "The Jungle"

jimi ,
thanks for the links ,
over the years i have made many cab and entry doors ,
and have tried just about every method possible ,
some out of curiosity , some by instruction from a boss .
they all do work , my method works for me ,
as i use it in my home to save money and time .
if you mess up a piece or two with the other methods ,
it helps if you have 3 router/shaper setups for the process ,
something most cabshops don’t have ,
so you have to reset the tools to replicate a few pieces ,
very time consuming .

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

David,

Great tutorial. Thank you for the clear explanations and for sharing your knowledge. That’s why I love this site!