I decided to remake my shooting board because my first try left a little to be desired. I wanted more accuracy and I didn’t have the ability to shoot 45° mitres.

I started with some reclaimed 3/4” common plywood and a piece of hardboard. I had an extra piece of walnut that I’d cut, so I had all the wood that I needed.

I spent some time surfing the net for ideas an found a few good ones.

http://www.evenfallstudios.com/woodworks/category/shooting-boards/

I decided to drill the holes for the 1/4” bolts undersized (15/64”) to eliminate ANY slop that might allow misalignment. They were a tight fit but nothing split, I needed to turn the bolts home with a wrench. I countersunk 1/4-20 T-Nuts to clear the hardboard sub-base, and screwed every T-Nut VERY tight to seat everything.

I cut the stop with the 45° edge on 1 side and left the other end square (90°).

I positioned the first hole on the 45° end and set the hole location and drilled it. Then I rechecked the exact 45° position and drilled the second hole and countersink. I located the 90° position and drilled and countersunk that hole. Swinging the radius, I using the second hole to locate the third hole.

I was buoyed by the results from the first shooting board and knew that if I was careful the next one would ROCK…

I have just recently started trying my hand at making some keepsake boxes and I have had my share of troubles. My first mitre joint box suffered from a misaligned RAS. I tried to tune-up the saw without the manual, that was a mistake.

The cuts didn’t match-up. I kind of gave up on this effort, I didn’t know how to save this one.

Enter the shooting board !!

(By the way. I bought this Record plane 22 years ago, it’s still working just fine. 8-)

After the GREAT success with squaring the edges I decided to use my cabinet scraper to smooth the outside (I really hate sandpaper). All I can say is that this project was headed for the scrap pile, but now I can honestly think about who I can give this to when it’s completed.

This box will have a lift-off lid and maybe a walnut base for contrast.

I hope to get some shop time soon, but with the holiday’s coming it won’t be easy.

Happy Holidays everyone!

later,

Struggling with the design concept, I bought a book “Making Traditional Wooden Planes” by John M. Whelan, it was no novel but a good source of wood plane design info. It’s worth reading if you’re researching wooden hand planes.

Trying to keep the first plane simple I decided on making a small shoulder plane in the Krenov style.

Looking around my shop I found an old 1” chisel. It is harder than heck, so I took it apart and used my Dremel tool to narrow the tang to within about an inch of the edge.

Having already made 1 attempt, the results weren’t as desired. I had however thicknessed the oak slabs for the infill and sides.

25 degrees was the chosen bedding angle and I cut the front and rear pieces.

Using small pieces of double stick tape to hold the front and rear infills in place so I could fit the wedge.

I chose the lay-out and drilled and holes for hardwood reinforcing pegs through all three layers. I also drew up the relief cuts for the outer layers, and cut them out with my scoll saw.

I used a piece of ash as the plane sole, fitted the rear portion, and glued it in place. After that dried I screwed the front in place taking this time to adjust the throat opening.

With all of the components at hand, I worked toward final fit-up. When the plane was completely assembled, I tensioned the wedge and started to flatten the front and rear portion of the sole. (Notice the change in sheen around the first inch or so near the mouth. That’s how much the plane nose flexes with the wedge tightened).

I didn’t glue the nose portion on so that I could replace it to compensate for wear. Any thinning of the plane sole will only make the mouth opening larger.

At this point the plane of technically complete, so while it was still all square I decided to add a front tote and either a provision for a rear tote or “tap button” so that hammer blows for adjustment doesn’t damage the plane body

Now it’s time to start smoothing the edges for comfort.

It’s almost done but I have made a few shavings with it 8-)

Now I have to learn the feel of adjusting the blade with hammer taps 8-)

Thanks for looking guys.

later,