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A Keepsake Box for Izzy from reclaimed wood. #3: Long and productive day!!!

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Blog entry by paratrooper34 posted 11-24-2012 11:33 PM 1099 reads 0 times favorited 0 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 2: Making nice wood from "garbage". Part 3 of A Keepsake Box for Izzy from reclaimed wood. series Part 4: Grooves and Splines! »

Ok, so next day, and another one closer to completion. I got a lot done today. I put the edge treatment on what will be the top edge of the box, cut the sides to length, cut the top and bottom pieces, and made corner blocks that I will use when I glue up the box. Here are pics.

The first thing I did for the edge treatment (which is essentially a molding profile) was lay out how I wanted it to look. Once I did that, I used some hollows and rounds to make the profile. To be honest, I am not happy with it. And I realized I need more practice with hollows and rounds. Maybe once I get a couple of projects done I can get some practice time in. Got to check Roy Underhill’s show and see if I can find a molding episode.

The arrow pointing at the line below the profile outline is where the box will be cut to separate the top and bottom.

I used a scrub plane to take out a good portion of the waste before I moved to the hollows and rounds.

With the profile complete, it was on to cutting the sides. I got the miter box out and started cutting. I made sure that all cuts were made with the face side out so that the edges would be sharp and crisp. This required a second cut at each one made that returned the angle back to where it needed to be. It also required turning the piece end over end to keep the cut oriented correctly. It sounds complicated (at least to me it does), but if I can keep it straight, anyone can. Here is how it went down.

The miter box has stops for the major angles, but I still check to make sure it is engaged properly. Being off at all in this project would be disastrous.

I didn’t see this issue coming: the board for the sides was just wide enough that the saw could not reach the full cut. When the saw stopped cutting, it took me a couple minutes to figure it out as I never encountered this before. So, after each cut I made on the miter box, I finished the cut with a rip saw in the vise on the bench. Since the remainder to be cut was only about a quarter inch, it was very quickly and accurately done.

Here are the side pieces. I tucked them away and got started on making the corner blocks for the box glue up. These are just some blocks the will go on each corner when I glue the box together that I will put some string around and tighten to get the joints tight. I took a piece of scrap I had laying around and marked out the waste. I initially used a tenon saw to to attempt to remove the waste and realized it would be easier with my moving fillister plane.

These are the finished blocks. I wanted to provide a relief area in the very corner which would keep the edges of the box from getting smashed when the string gets tightened down. I originally thought I would put shims on each side that were sized with a smaller width than than the sides of the blocks. Then it dawned on me to use a #4 round to create a cove in the corner. Here is how they turned out.

I made the bottom from two left over pieces I had that I edge glued. Once the glue sits overnight, I will shape and dimension it. I then moved on to the top. The top will be a book-matched piece that will either get used at its final thickness or it will be a veneer. Haven’t decided on that yet. So I found a nice grain pattern in one of the boards and cut it to size. I then used two marking gauges to scribe lines down the middle of the board’s edges. The first gauge is one with a knife in it to get the line set. This line will be where the cut will happen. I then used an Ulmia marking gauge that has a pin type cutter in it to widen the mark. That made a very nice groove which will allow the saw blade to sit in and maintain an accurate cut. Here are pics of that.

Here is the board when I started.

You can see how the pin type gauge really opened up that groove. This made it easy to keep the saw aligned.

To saw the board apart, I used a tenon saw to get the cut defined all the way around and deep enough to ensure straight tracking of the large bowsaw which finished the cut. Here is how that looked.

The bow saw is a beast and it made short work of finishing the cut.

Here is how the book-matched piece looks:

I then had to clean up these pieces from the sawing cuts. I marked out a thickness which kept the pieces as thick as they could be. Once I had them marked, I used my #5 to get then dimensioned and then the smoother to clean them up.

Here is what they look like cleaned up.

So I was done with the box for today. But, I wasn’t done working. Today, I noticed my smoother and both jack planes were not cutting well. It has been a while since I sharpened them (other than a freshening up on the strop), so they were due. I sharpened those three blades and the one from my #7 jointer. All in all, it took about 20 minutes or so. Sharpening is not so much of a chore once you establish primary bevels and all you have to do is hone the microbevels only.

Here is my sharpening station. I keep all the jigs and tools that I need for sharpening chores. The top shelf contains supplies for the WS 3000. I also keep diamond stones in there. I sharpen with water stones and I keep them in a tub of water below the station. I keep a five gallon bucket of water to claen off the stones after I flatten them (I do that everytime I use them).

And here are the freshly sharpened planes back in their homes.

-- Mike



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