Debated adding this because I did the work on the cheap and it is not up the standards of many – but here goes anyway. As a retired guy I can’t afford to hire labor so it had to be made from stuff I could work with on my own. And except of the door had to be done on what I got for my 30 YO boat.
In my workshop entry I described how I got from 2004 to 2010. Seems like yesterday but it was 4 years ago. Last year I sold my boat and that set the stage for the current shop project.
What it looked like before selling the boat. All my tools are in the old shop on rollers. I already had a separate breaker panel with 40amps of power coming from the house. Other than that it was an open carport with 2X8’s in the ceiling and 2X4’s for walls. I insulated but nothing like I have seen discussed on this site. I opted for bat fiberglass – 3.5” for the walls and 6+” in the ceiling. Pain in the neck to work with but it went up fast and I didn’t hire any labor. Didn’t itch like in the old days.
I wired it first with a ceiling circuit and 2 110 wall circus all on 20 amp breakers. I wired a separate 220 single phase circuit on a 30 amp breaker. Although I left it single phase I deadheaded a 4th wire in the box and the panel so it could be expanded to 3 phase at a later time.
Now what to do with the walls and ceilings. I can’t handle sheet goods without hiring labor so drywall, OSB, ply, T-111 were all out. A visit to a local lumberyard yielded a unit of junk 8” pine T&G for about 30% of regular price. I knew that at least I could handle that.
So in August I started the whole thing by framing in the door. I used T-111 to match the original building.
Insulation followed by the first course of T&G.
Using a couple helpers I could handle 10’ boards. I used grabber finish screws every where. Held in the bit well and left small holes.
Schedule was to have the ceiling and east wall done by November 1st for the door installation.
Made it. The new door is 7X8 steel,, insulated door with a belt opener. Heavy duty supports and rails. The one thing I did not do myself. Long ago I learned that properly installed overhead doors is not a DIY project. The individual panels alone were more than I could lift.
I lost the month of December to a hernia operation but still had the space buttoned up. The wood heater in the old shop kept the place comfortable.
In January I replaced the wood heater with a $100 Propane special. Also in the old shop. Very happy with the results. Salt Lake has really awful inversions and the city is going to abolish wood burning soon.
By February it was sort of done. East and south wall with man door to house.
West and south wall. When I ran the ceiling circuit I set up one box for full time power and one double box that is switched at the door. Original plan was for 4 fixtures but 3 gives me more than enough lite.
North wall and my motley collection of storage chests. All used and all but 1 has ball bearing slides. Wish the oil stains from the outboard motor went away but such is life. The original plan was to fill the holes and paint walls and ceiling. Some kind of reflective light color. Laziness struck and I kind of like the look of the thing. I also like the ability to find studs if needed. I didn’t do a lot of filling but I did find that White Oak Timbermate dries the same color as the pine. I still keep my bigger tools in the old shop and whenever I use a circular blade I move outside. Smaller projects and hand tool stuff I do in the new shop. My answer to dust collection.
The last 2 courses on the south wall necessitated buying new lumber. The rest was done with the twisted stuff I found outdoors in the parking lot for cheap. Even the window trim was done with pieces of cheap pine. I know lots of folks here don’t like pine, bat insulation, cement floors, etc but sometimes we live with what we can afford. Keeps me warm in the winter and for floor I change into good cushioned shoes.
So that’s my shop odyssey. Got a new 12 X 20 space.