Had a recent hernia operation and feel good enough to do something really stupid so wife told me to sit at the computer. This fall has been about finishing the new shop work room (a much longer and detailed project). But like a lot of the things we do around the place everything is like a string of dominoes.
Up until November access to the back yard was thru an open carport and a half gate. The neighborhood is a friendly kind of place and lots of visiting takes place over the half fence. The problem is closing in the carport, always the plan, required moving backyard access. And keeping a half gate.
But this is a city and security is important. I have always locked everything at nite including tool chests, and the exterior door. I want to make ripping me off a real problem. Not something casual for an opportunist.
First problem was the posts. The post on the right is treated and over the past 8 years it really twisted. I never use treated stuff any more. The post on the left is newer and cedar but neither of them are good enough to hang a gate on.
So I dug a couple holes for new posts. Note that the post on the right seems shorter than the original. I found that the clam shell post hole digger has always limited me to 18 – 24”. I recently purchased an auger style post hole digger and the new tool allows me to get deeper. So I did.
The new posts in and setting up. Found out another thing. My camera makes things look unparallel. I don’t know why but it does. These things were leveled in all directions before pouring the concrete. I thought about a trellis for stability but attaching each side will have to do. Still way stronger than single posts.
Because of the size I was able to assemble the gates on my work bench. Gave me a lot better control than field assembly. Not visible in the picture but the unit was clamped, squared, screwed and I use 1/2” red oak dowels to finally secure it together. I used tiitebond 3 with the dowels. I know the red oak will wick water into the hole and don’t know how the titebond will hold up. But with the way the oak will swell, warp, and twist I am not sure the glue was necessary in the first place.
I used a diagonal for strength. The diagonal is secured with a few screws and 4 1/2” oak dowels. One from each side of the board. Again, I used glue with the dowels but not sure that is necessary. It is physically impossible for the structure to twist without sheering dowels and I don’t think that can happen. The fence baords are nailed to top, bottom, and diagonal.
From the outside, when it is closed, it looks like this. Got it done 2 days after the new insulated overhead door was installed. When the top is closed the only way in is over the top.
i swung it inward partly because of the way I park my truck. I would have liked to get 48” but in order to clear the locust tree I had to settle for 44”.
From the inside closed it looks like this. New posts tied to the old posts again with screws and dowels. I shut the top at nite when I shut in the chickens. And note the gutter downspout. I had to run it under what next spring will be a landing of pavers. The red blocks are my attempt to get it done before mud season. And I beat that by about 3 days. It drains into a dry well at the base of the locust tree. I was able to do that and avoid roots. I’ll clean the whole thing up when i install the pavers next spring.
Open during the day. Good hinges, everything is cedar and light weight, and most of all the boss gave me a thumbs up. Of course the comment was when are you going to replace the front gate. Guess that goes on my 20 year list of projects. We never use it so it’s way down the list.
Anyway, killing an afternoon when I can’t work in the shop while recording football games.