It all started Tuesday before Tday.
I finished using the dado on my table saw and was replacing the blade when I noticed a large amount of wobble in the blade. And it was the motor bearings. Because of the way I use the saw there was over 1/16” play at the edge of the blade both side to side and top and bottom. I’ll bet the fact that I use a wobble dado did it. Those things can’t be good for a direct drive saw. And when I discovered that I decided to go shopping and the first opportunity was Black Friday. So I spent Thursday morning getting the old one ready to sell. And then I hit the ads. No, not the big box stores – the real ads. And Friday I found what I was looking for -
A cast iron saw for $100. Some people say you get what you pay for. I did run it at the guy’s house and it ran. Hasn’t been used for 20 years when the original owner died. A little vibration but that is expected when the rubber belt is 40 years old and has sat in tension for 20 of those years. It was passed from kid to grandkid and then to Jim. Looks nice. Didn’t know they originally painted the tops brown.
Well the first thing I needed to do was getting it on a platform so I could get it out of the truck and move it around. Lowes has a line of pretty good casters and I went for 4” which are really easy rolling and easy to get your foot under to lock. This will eventually be the base of the new stand.
The front end makes it look 40’s or 50’s but it is a 1972 model made for Sears by Emerson electric. Model # 113.29943. Went at the saw with liquid wrench and first a scotch pad for the easy stuff and then with 220 grit sandpaper. All wet sanding by hand.
After the first day – ½ can of liquid wrench, 1 ½ sheets of the best 220 grit cloth backed paper I could find, half roll of paper towels, ½ scotch pad. Total time invested was about 2hrs. Soak the top and have a beer for 15 minutes then 15 minutes sanding. Full cd of Willie Nelson and ½ Kristofferson and Coolidge. Only 2 very small pits on the right side that I don’t think were caused by rust. It looks to me like somebody used the top as a bench while using some kind of hard pointed punch. Less than 1/32 wide. I could probably get them out but I don’t want to take off that much material. You can’t feel them with a finger but if you bend down and look through the reflection of a lite you can see them.
End of day 2 and it looks much better. All surface rust gone and most of the stains too. The sides of the top are harder to get because when they were ground the process left small ridges that I can’t get with sandpaper. I am going to go at the edges only with a very soft wire wheel. A couple more hours and I will call it done.
Off to NAPA to get new v-belts for the saw and drill press. Both have the original belts and they are very hard and lumpy. I originally intended to get link belts at HF but reading reviews there does not seem to be a difference between the HF green link belts and v-belts with cogs. And the v-belts are cheaper. I figure I can buy them, put em on and if it clears up the vibration I’ll keep them. Neither tool is bad right now but we might as well start new.
And Saturday morning after black Friday I placed an ad for the small saw online for $35. At that price I don’t have to feel bad about the shaft wobble and the saw was gone by 1pm. The guy that bought it was going to mostly use it for balsa wood models so it will be fine. So I rented the original saw for $200 for 9 years and the new saw cost me $65 + sandpaper, liquid wrench and ½ scotch pad. I won’t count the casters. I would have had to get them no matter what I did.
So here is the “I’m tired of doing this” picture. I did use the wire brush but only on the edges on wet material. And I did not go at it hard. I am sure most people would think I quit too soon but it will last my lifetime.
I like the fact that I can take the front off with 6 screws. Makes it easy to clean. On the underside I used a LPS penetrating oil and a soft copper brush on the threads and gears. Worked it pretty good. Then I applied LPS 842 dry lube on all the moving parts. The tilt and raise and lower are now smooth as silk.
Some stuff I used. At the end of each day I worked on it with liquid wrench I wiped the whole thing down with mineral spirits. i owe a lot to YouTube.
Total invested time 3 days, less than a 30 pack, and about 3 hours per day. I took the belt for the drill press back but the one for the table saw made a big difference. Or maybe because I spent some time partially tuning the saw. Note no holes drilled in the rear of the saw – more on that later.
Jan 8 – can’t believe it took me this long but the shop was warm and with the outdoor temp between 20 and 40 the beer was fine.
Finally got a base built. The total height is 33 inches so I can reach across without getting on my tiptoes. I used to be 5’6” but am now 5”5” and shrinking daily. Not happy with the way it came out because the ¾” plywood I got from HD is as warped as a piece of green pine sitting under a hot desert sun. Terrible and it cost me $40 + tax. Every 2’ X 2’ piece had at least 4 football patches and plenty of blows visible in the edges. Because I am in the middle of a very high priority project (I get to vote on the priorities but my vote really doesn’t count) I had to use this terrible stuff and get back in operation.
Also the first Delta T2 fence installation. Ok except the back rail was held in place by the wings. There were no holes drilled in the rear of the saw. I worked with it for a week or so and decided the system was too limiting. I would never be able to have full and better extensions with the back rail not attached to the saw itself.
So I decided that even though it would be freehand with a hand drill I had to have holes in the back of the saw. If you note on the left side I had to drill a second hole. I think I might have punched it wrong or maybe when I drilled the pilot hole but in any event the holes didn’t line up so I drilled a 4th. Fortunately there was space in the back side that gave me some options.
It lines up perfectly now and while I was at it I drilled out a 4’ piece of aluminum angel for mounting some kind of outfeed in the future. What extra hole.
Then I started experimenting with inserts and have a decent dado mdf prototype. 6” Freud dado from tools plus.
Now 2 months later I can get back to work on the TV cabinet. But I have another new toy.