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#1 ·
Good bye Old Chair Friends

Like saying Good Bye to a favorite friend, I made these over 29 years ago and it lead to making …well I am up to 17 chairs. It helps to give them away as wedding presents 2 at a time. These are from Woodsmith plans, also with a coffee table. I really love about these that they DON'T slope so deep in the back of the chair like most Adirondack chairs. I have had men 6 foot tall sit in these and when they get out they are pleased that it was not like most needing a crane to pull them out. So in my pics the front view shows the rule and it is 15 inches to the seat edge. and the side view shows a 12 inch rule at the corner of the back edge….so the back end is high off the floor and not a large drop in the seat angle. And you
Wood Engineering Lumber Hardwood Plank


Building Wood Shelving Wood stain Hardwood


see a roll in the seat. The Woodsmith plans are very clear to make the patterns and how many boards to make a chair. I usually made two at a time and would use 5 1Ă—12 with little extra. Most of mine were in regular pine with few knots, a better grade and if knots I planned them for the legs and arms not the seat and back. This chair was wood stained and on a shaded porch its first several years then 8 years exposed on our deck. I would prop the legs up in winter and cover the two, now at this house 4 years exposed to weather. Last year I enjoyed sitting in it while recovering from knee surgery and it was very sturdy. The painted chairs do look better and these were with construction adhesive and screws at all connections, which was in the plans and lasted. In doing the next chairs I will make the front legs from 3 inch to 4 or 5 inch and the back cross piece to arms wider. This was the only angle cut in assembly and the only joint that failed over the years. The arms are 5 inch and maybe wider would be nice. The corner blocks inside the frame helped the whole unit stay ridgid also. I don't want to make them in pressure treated and I cannot find the red cedar in my area-PA-. Hmmm pine lasted 20 years, I think at 65 now Pine will do and sealed holes and glue will be a treasured chair for years. I want to make this a kit style if we move with bolts for the front leg and arms one unit, seat and legs one unit, and the back to bolt to a cross board between the legs. More later as I look over the patterns I made in paneling and check on the folder I have on the plans. Also lower the front from the plans to 14 inch the plans call for 15 inch and it is better lower.
Wood Hardwood Wood stain Plank Lumber
 

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#2 ·
Good bye Old Chair Friends

Like saying Good Bye to a favorite friend, I made these over 29 years ago and it lead to making …well I am up to 17 chairs. It helps to give them away as wedding presents 2 at a time. These are from Woodsmith plans, also with a coffee table. I really love about these that they DON'T slope so deep in the back of the chair like most Adirondack chairs. I have had men 6 foot tall sit in these and when they get out they are pleased that it was not like most needing a crane to pull them out. So in my pics the front view shows the rule and it is 15 inches to the seat edge. and the side view shows a 12 inch rule at the corner of the back edge….so the back end is high off the floor and not a large drop in the seat angle. And you
Wood Engineering Lumber Hardwood Plank


Building Wood Shelving Wood stain Hardwood


see a roll in the seat. The Woodsmith plans are very clear to make the patterns and how many boards to make a chair. I usually made two at a time and would use 5 1Ă—12 with little extra. Most of mine were in regular pine with few knots, a better grade and if knots I planned them for the legs and arms not the seat and back. This chair was wood stained and on a shaded porch its first several years then 8 years exposed on our deck. I would prop the legs up in winter and cover the two, now at this house 4 years exposed to weather. Last year I enjoyed sitting in it while recovering from knee surgery and it was very sturdy. The painted chairs do look better and these were with construction adhesive and screws at all connections, which was in the plans and lasted. In doing the next chairs I will make the front legs from 3 inch to 4 or 5 inch and the back cross piece to arms wider. This was the only angle cut in assembly and the only joint that failed over the years. The arms are 5 inch and maybe wider would be nice. The corner blocks inside the frame helped the whole unit stay ridgid also. I don't want to make them in pressure treated and I cannot find the red cedar in my area-PA-. Hmmm pine lasted 20 years, I think at 65 now Pine will do and sealed holes and glue will be a treasured chair for years. I want to make this a kit style if we move with bolts for the front leg and arms one unit, seat and legs one unit, and the back to bolt to a cross board between the legs. More later as I look over the patterns I made in paneling and check on the folder I have on the plans. Also lower the front from the plans to 14 inch the plans call for 15 inch and it is better lower.
Wood Hardwood Wood stain Plank Lumber
They look like very comfortable chairs. I've been wanting to make a couple for a few years and it always gets pushed down on the to-do list. I'll look up the Woodsmith plans.
 

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#3 ·
Good bye Old Chair Friends

Like saying Good Bye to a favorite friend, I made these over 29 years ago and it lead to making …well I am up to 17 chairs. It helps to give them away as wedding presents 2 at a time. These are from Woodsmith plans, also with a coffee table. I really love about these that they DON'T slope so deep in the back of the chair like most Adirondack chairs. I have had men 6 foot tall sit in these and when they get out they are pleased that it was not like most needing a crane to pull them out. So in my pics the front view shows the rule and it is 15 inches to the seat edge. and the side view shows a 12 inch rule at the corner of the back edge….so the back end is high off the floor and not a large drop in the seat angle. And you
Wood Engineering Lumber Hardwood Plank


Building Wood Shelving Wood stain Hardwood


see a roll in the seat. The Woodsmith plans are very clear to make the patterns and how many boards to make a chair. I usually made two at a time and would use 5 1Ă—12 with little extra. Most of mine were in regular pine with few knots, a better grade and if knots I planned them for the legs and arms not the seat and back. This chair was wood stained and on a shaded porch its first several years then 8 years exposed on our deck. I would prop the legs up in winter and cover the two, now at this house 4 years exposed to weather. Last year I enjoyed sitting in it while recovering from knee surgery and it was very sturdy. The painted chairs do look better and these were with construction adhesive and screws at all connections, which was in the plans and lasted. In doing the next chairs I will make the front legs from 3 inch to 4 or 5 inch and the back cross piece to arms wider. This was the only angle cut in assembly and the only joint that failed over the years. The arms are 5 inch and maybe wider would be nice. The corner blocks inside the frame helped the whole unit stay ridgid also. I don't want to make them in pressure treated and I cannot find the red cedar in my area-PA-. Hmmm pine lasted 20 years, I think at 65 now Pine will do and sealed holes and glue will be a treasured chair for years. I want to make this a kit style if we move with bolts for the front leg and arms one unit, seat and legs one unit, and the back to bolt to a cross board between the legs. More later as I look over the patterns I made in paneling and check on the folder I have on the plans. Also lower the front from the plans to 14 inch the plans call for 15 inch and it is better lower.
Wood Hardwood Wood stain Plank Lumber
PlansInWood.com has great plans and great customer service and Phil is a LumberJock.
 

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#4 ·
Making New Goal 20 Adirondack Chairs...

As a NEW goal for Spring of 2022 I wanted to reach making new Adirondack Chairs for the home here in Phoenix. our porch is in the shade and two chairs would be very useful most of the year. 2 more Chairs and I can brag about making 20 Adirondack chairs in my life.
So here is my story. In 1996 I started making some Adirondack chairs in my basement shop in PA. By good fortune i use Woodsmith magazine Issue 69 plans for Chair and Bench and table. So I will tell you what I like about this chair. 1) the seat does not slope low in the back, its more like a porch chair in the angle. I have more compliments that people can get out of it easily. 2) Corner blocks to reinforce the seat frame. I don' t see this in many plans. 3) I made mine from a #2 select pine and they sat outdoors for many years with a coat of stain and I restained them. Mine lasted 20 years. That is a testament to what good pine on decks can do. The only complaint I had was in that climate many mornings I wanted to sit outdoors and enjoy my coffee and the wood was wet from dew, I guess that is not the woods fault just my complaint. On to more, I started with family chairs and built the first (4. )The next (2 )were wedding presents, then sold (4 )to their family friends just for some money. At this time 2 chairs painted were costing me about $90 for 3Ă—1x12 boards, screws, bolts, and glues, and paint. So that is (10. ) The next 4 to church friends as wedding presents. (14) another to the Pastor with a table also. (15). 2 more to Mom and another a Bench to family, now (18). Here in Phoenix, one (1)child chair not from plans. The Woodsmith Plans are a straight back design and simple arm look. I lowered the seat 1 inch to 14 inches for my father in law and never made the others back to the plan height. The plan sheet gives a board layout for cutting-a nice feature, not just a cut list. Bolts were used on the front legs to side legs. Also construction adhesive.was used, but some new glues would be good now. My own set (3,4) at over 10 years I could still lift by the arms and carry around the yard. A small lesson I learned accidently was about footstools, DON'T make footstools as WIDE as the chair seat. So when you sit up you have to straddle your legs and hit the uprights to go wider than the footstool. Many plans show wide stools, looks good but not practical. Just build them about a foot wide. I will post photos next blog of past chairs.
 
#5 ·
I need to dig through my archives to see if I have that issue. I have a couple of the chairs down at the fire pit, needless to say they have seen better years. They do have that steep seat, which yes, it's hard to get up. And I am not getting any younger.
 
#6 ·
Going to build Adirondack Chairs #19 and #20

Wood Natural material Hardwood Wood stain Plank


Wood Wood stain Hardwood Varnish Plank


Wood Office ruler Line Font Material property


Raise you hand you don't like to sit in an Adirondack Chair ?? Please read on….And its time to get to the Shop and use Woodsmith plans issue #69 Adirondack Chair, Settee and Table on the cover.
And I have the patterns on hardboard and paneling for the leg and arm, so the first steps were much faster now. Also I was able to make the arm support on card stock, and later I will make on cardboard ( thats anything I get my hands on about 10 inch by 26 inch, even a cereal box flattened ) to make a pattern for the spacing of back slats. So the pics are not very interesting except I included one to advertise these plans. Raise you hand you sit too low in an Adirondack Chair, so look at the pic of the leg and front leg and rulers. The seat front is to be almost 15 inches up, thats nearly chair height. But the silver ruler at the low seat point shows a 12 inch height that is more interesting if your hand went up. Many other plans and chairs I have sat in your butt is 9 inches off the ground at the front and lower at the back. Now about those old knees? These chairs sit more like a patio level with the curve seat and not so much drop at the back. Actually I stumbled on this fact after I made chairs 3 and 4. And chair 1 for my father in law I lowered the front an inch to 14.5 inches and never raised it back for any of the others. I am 5ft 5in. so my chairs felt ok, too bad for the rest of the world. My chairs 3 and 4 were in regular pine and after being on a covered deck moved to uncovered decks for the next 13 years. Finally I knew they were wiggling and not worth the fix so I took them apart for firewood. Old bolts. Nasty rusted screws. Who did this? Almost 20 years and still never broke. It made me feel good. Usually I made 2 chairs at a time and it took 5 1Ă—12 to make them, in the old days about $80. I have no idea now on wood as I am using what I have acquired and they will be on my back porch in shade in Arizona, no snow , no wet miserable cannot sit in them mornings, and at my almost 70 we will see how long they last. Watch for more on the build. Thanks. please don't tell me the pics turned I shot them in landscape.
 

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#7 ·
Going to build Adirondack Chairs #19 and #20

Wood Natural material Hardwood Wood stain Plank


Wood Wood stain Hardwood Varnish Plank


Wood Office ruler Line Font Material property


Raise you hand you don't like to sit in an Adirondack Chair ?? Please read on….And its time to get to the Shop and use Woodsmith plans issue #69 Adirondack Chair, Settee and Table on the cover.
And I have the patterns on hardboard and paneling for the leg and arm, so the first steps were much faster now. Also I was able to make the arm support on card stock, and later I will make on cardboard ( thats anything I get my hands on about 10 inch by 26 inch, even a cereal box flattened ) to make a pattern for the spacing of back slats. So the pics are not very interesting except I included one to advertise these plans. Raise you hand you sit too low in an Adirondack Chair, so look at the pic of the leg and front leg and rulers. The seat front is to be almost 15 inches up, thats nearly chair height. But the silver ruler at the low seat point shows a 12 inch height that is more interesting if your hand went up. Many other plans and chairs I have sat in your butt is 9 inches off the ground at the front and lower at the back. Now about those old knees? These chairs sit more like a patio level with the curve seat and not so much drop at the back. Actually I stumbled on this fact after I made chairs 3 and 4. And chair 1 for my father in law I lowered the front an inch to 14.5 inches and never raised it back for any of the others. I am 5ft 5in. so my chairs felt ok, too bad for the rest of the world. My chairs 3 and 4 were in regular pine and after being on a covered deck moved to uncovered decks for the next 13 years. Finally I knew they were wiggling and not worth the fix so I took them apart for firewood. Old bolts. Nasty rusted screws. Who did this? Almost 20 years and still never broke. It made me feel good. Usually I made 2 chairs at a time and it took 5 1Ă—12 to make them, in the old days about $80. I have no idea now on wood as I am using what I have acquired and they will be on my back porch in shade in Arizona, no snow , no wet miserable cannot sit in them mornings, and at my almost 70 we will see how long they last. Watch for more on the build. Thanks. please don't tell me the pics turned I shot them in landscape.
I will be following your build, I need to make a few for around the fire pit. Might see if I can locate the plans in my "Woodsmith" collection.
 

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#9 ·
Adirondack Chairs build continues and more...

Plant Wood Gas Engineering Machine


Wood Wood stain Hardwood Flooring Lumber


Plant Wood Tree Outdoor furniture Bench


Furniture Wood Desktop computer Electrical wiring Engineering


Saturday prime time. So one pic is the poplar where I had the arm and leg pattern on one board a 4 ft x 10 in and use the band saw to cut apart and the SS table supported as an outfeed. I had 4 of these to do using boards from my bookshelf project. Then I cut all the edges to final size. Note in another the arm pattern has a sharp curve to it, that's me using the best of material not the slope from plans. I also have the arms at 6 inch wide for a nice space for cups and plates. So the morning produced 4 legs and 4 arms and 8 arm brackets, all from poplar, I included the Shopsmith photo to give both the idea of what I have but also you don't need space. No doubt I want more space since I am used to at least a one car garage space. My first SS was in a basement shop and I just touched the joist when in drill press mode….Old home in Western PA. The wood outside is about 10 boards or 60 feet of pine and it may just make the seats and backs for the two Chairs. I have to decide to keep the 3 1/4 widths or rip to 2.5 as the plans are. One way looks good, the other just saves me time and best use of wood. Once sized, seats and back strips get rounded over at the router table so two steps of mass production mode.
Thanks. Hal
 

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#10 ·
Adirondack Chairs build continues and more...

Plant Wood Gas Engineering Machine


Wood Wood stain Hardwood Flooring Lumber


Plant Wood Tree Outdoor furniture Bench


Furniture Wood Desktop computer Electrical wiring Engineering


Saturday prime time. So one pic is the poplar where I had the arm and leg pattern on one board a 4 ft x 10 in and use the band saw to cut apart and the SS table supported as an outfeed. I had 4 of these to do using boards from my bookshelf project. Then I cut all the edges to final size. Note in another the arm pattern has a sharp curve to it, that's me using the best of material not the slope from plans. I also have the arms at 6 inch wide for a nice space for cups and plates. So the morning produced 4 legs and 4 arms and 8 arm brackets, all from poplar, I included the Shopsmith photo to give both the idea of what I have but also you don't need space. No doubt I want more space since I am used to at least a one car garage space. My first SS was in a basement shop and I just touched the joist when in drill press mode….Old home in Western PA. The wood outside is about 10 boards or 60 feet of pine and it may just make the seats and backs for the two Chairs. I have to decide to keep the 3 1/4 widths or rip to 2.5 as the plans are. One way looks good, the other just saves me time and best use of wood. Once sized, seats and back strips get rounded over at the router table so two steps of mass production mode.
Thanks. Hal
Hal, your moving right along. As fir the rips, I always try to get the most out of my boards. Is it possible to get the second piece for the back out of the same board by flipping one of the cuts end for end. You will have a tapered cut in the middle, but it might save some material. Just a though.
 

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#11 ·
adirondack chairs build ....mass production ..ugh...Dust Collection upgraded

Sky World Tree Plant Eyewear


Wood Hardwood Engineering Machine Lumber


Gas Wood Machine Metal Wire


Wood Electrical wiring Gas Automotive tire Electrical supply


And Today in Arizona we started at 75 temp at 5 am so the wife and I got in a mile and She treated me to my Latte at Starbucks. Now that is what I call getting ready. Hence the pseudo name Oldguy2. Oldguy1 was my good friend in PA and a Shopsmith owner also and we attended two classes at the factory. Thanks Jerry.
Now onto making Roundovers on back slats and seat slats and arms and cross pieces on the legs. A mass run of about 40 some parts today. And after careful test runs of the roundover bit, I was ready. Now the set up in my shed shop takes the swamp cooler…kinda R2D2 blowing cool air when its really hot like 90 in the building…and its insulated but you need the doors open. The Bosch Router table is right at the door to give me room for almost anything and I can slide it out or around to do most things. Today I have a shot of the inside sawdust…really what we all want to see…but this is after 25 boards rounded over on 2 edges of pine. Now the 2.5 inch hose runs off the fence to the Upgraded Shopsmith Dust Collector with about 10 feet of hose. I keep the unit in the corner and use a $13 remote to turn it on.( one brand sold on Amazon, when the man in the video ran his HF dust collector 2 hp I was sold) So my upgrade here is a 24 inch new filter bag and a 1.5 hp motor that I bought last Christmas from Shopsmith. Still very quiet and it has done nicely for me, also on the table saw dust chute. The push block is one of 3 from Shopsmith and after my Rant Blog about the Gripper ( its still for sale ??) this was great. I may just have to do a photo of all my homemade push sticks and ask why did I buy the gripper. I have to do edge sanding on the legs and arms before I can do more routing but with the holiday and trip coming up I was glad to get the time and progress here. It will be a bit before the next session. thanks.
 

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#12 ·
adirondack chairs build ....mass production ..ugh...Dust Collection upgraded

Sky World Tree Plant Eyewear


Wood Hardwood Engineering Machine Lumber


Gas Wood Machine Metal Wire


Wood Electrical wiring Gas Automotive tire Electrical supply


And Today in Arizona we started at 75 temp at 5 am so the wife and I got in a mile and She treated me to my Latte at Starbucks. Now that is what I call getting ready. Hence the pseudo name Oldguy2. Oldguy1 was my good friend in PA and a Shopsmith owner also and we attended two classes at the factory. Thanks Jerry.
Now onto making Roundovers on back slats and seat slats and arms and cross pieces on the legs. A mass run of about 40 some parts today. And after careful test runs of the roundover bit, I was ready. Now the set up in my shed shop takes the swamp cooler…kinda R2D2 blowing cool air when its really hot like 90 in the building…and its insulated but you need the doors open. The Bosch Router table is right at the door to give me room for almost anything and I can slide it out or around to do most things. Today I have a shot of the inside sawdust…really what we all want to see…but this is after 25 boards rounded over on 2 edges of pine. Now the 2.5 inch hose runs off the fence to the Upgraded Shopsmith Dust Collector with about 10 feet of hose. I keep the unit in the corner and use a $13 remote to turn it on.( one brand sold on Amazon, when the man in the video ran his HF dust collector 2 hp I was sold) So my upgrade here is a 24 inch new filter bag and a 1.5 hp motor that I bought last Christmas from Shopsmith. Still very quiet and it has done nicely for me, also on the table saw dust chute. The push block is one of 3 from Shopsmith and after my Rant Blog about the Gripper ( its still for sale ??) this was great. I may just have to do a photo of all my homemade push sticks and ask why did I buy the gripper. I have to do edge sanding on the legs and arms before I can do more routing but with the holiday and trip coming up I was glad to get the time and progress here. It will be a bit before the next session. thanks.
How many chairs are you making, Hal?
 

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#13 ·
Back at those Adirondack Chairs....and platform deck addition.

No Photos here Just an update. June is a get out of the heat from Phoenix and we did a cross country and mooch off the family at many towns. Too many to name but almost to Philly and back, with 2 minor car problems, I count that as real good for a 6000 mile trip.
I did get to see some past projects I made by accident that family members had and that was enlightening, we should all get to see some projects we made more than 25 years ago and really think how far we have come along. I did.
So this morning armed with motivation, I started the swamp cooler, looked over the seat slats, geez did I miss more than half of the sides to round over those edges. ugggh. Set things in place and back to it in 90% temps that lasted a half hour at 10 am. I did concede to grab the Gripper and use it since I own it and give it a second chance. But I spit on it for good luck and it stuck well to those boards, I will remember that or sweat off my brow.
All my other tools fired up and remembered me after 25 days away.
Now the wife and I had discussed my shop addition while away. Plan# whatever is a ground level deck with canopy even with the shop floor. ( this is instead of a 12×12 room on the shed ) About 10×12 at the doors, no walls, no permits, canopy for shade. Now you must rethink about Phoenix weather. It seldom rains…like 30 days a year. and a few chilly days you need a layer or two of clothes but that changes. Lighting, oh we got that covered, zillions of kw natural if you are in the open or even shaded. Now I am working out more details but I am growing on this idea. A platform onto the cement of the pool edge, no posts needed, the pool is already filled in. step up about 6 inches onto the deck. Choice of deck material--working on that, since the price of wood now is high. If I plan this correctly the current awning can last a few years then if i work it to a regular low frame roof to match the rest.
Goals….we all need goals…
 
#14 ·
Hey Hal,

Glad you had a nice trip. That's a lot more driving than I would want to do.

It's great that you have plans. I need a plan just to get my large shop where I can do something in it. It's so cluttered with tools and more tools, that there is no place to work.

I ate lunch outside today in Alabama and it was about 78 at 11:30-ish which is unusually cool and awsome.
83 now at 12:30. This week my 5 young kids have soccer "camp', so this weather is much appreciated.

-Paul
 
#17 ·
Assemble the Chair Backs...2 adirondack chairs..step%$#^^

Wood Table Wood stain Flooring Floor


Wood Rectangle Wood stain Line Flooring


Wood Wood stain Hardwood Flooring Varnish


So Shop Time today Yup This was about an hour of layout the 6 boards of the back on my bench. my benchtop is 29 by 54..actually a tabletop a neighbor was ditching, and its on top of an 18 inch by 54 1.5 inch top of poplar. So thats why the boards fit this width. Now I had prepped the cardboard arch before by taking a large cardstock and folding it in half and making a longer curve than needed. the fold is the centerpoint. When open both halves match. So the boards together let me mark the order, look for flaws that I can change the order. the plans call for 8 but I am going with 6 and a bit of space between about 1/2 inch. After I mark the curve its band saw time and collect the cut offs…not off cuts…for the camping trip. Now I have another set of 6 boards for the second chair, this is why 2 chairs at once is easy. Also in the next step a bit of the same with checking and flaws. Choose a better board or rearrange for knots. These will be painted pine and in the shade so that needs to be factored in. No one wants a knot to bleed sap on their clothes and you can work around that on the seat boards and back boards where you put certain knots.
More assembly in the next step.
Thanks…
 

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#18 ·
Assemble the Chair Backs...2 adirondack chairs..step%$#^^

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Flooring Varnish


Wood Table Wood stain Flooring Floor


Wood Rectangle Wood stain Line Flooring


Wood Wood stain Hardwood Flooring Varnish


So Shop Time today Yup This was about an hour of layout the 6 boards of the back on my bench. my benchtop is 29 by 54..actually a tabletop a neighbor was ditching, and its on top of an 18 inch by 54 1.5 inch top of poplar. So thats why the boards fit this width. Now I had prepped the cardboard arch before by taking a large cardstock and folding it in half and making a longer curve than needed. the fold is the centerpoint. When open both halves match. So the boards together let me mark the order, look for flaws that I can change the order. the plans call for 8 but I am going with 6 and a bit of space between about 1/2 inch. After I mark the curve its band saw time and collect the cut offs…not off cuts…for the camping trip. Now I have another set of 6 boards for the second chair, this is why 2 chairs at once is easy. Also in the next step a bit of the same with checking and flaws. Choose a better board or rearrange for knots. These will be painted pine and in the shade so that needs to be factored in. No one wants a knot to bleed sap on their clothes and you can work around that on the seat boards and back boards where you put certain knots.
More assembly in the next step.
Thanks…
Wood Wood stain Hardwood Flooring Varnish


Wood Wood stain Hardwood Flooring Varnish
 

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#19 ·
Assemble the Chair Backs...2 adirondack chairs..step%$#^^

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Flooring Varnish


Wood Table Wood stain Flooring Floor


Wood Rectangle Wood stain Line Flooring


Wood Wood stain Hardwood Flooring Varnish


So Shop Time today Yup This was about an hour of layout the 6 boards of the back on my bench. my benchtop is 29 by 54..actually a tabletop a neighbor was ditching, and its on top of an 18 inch by 54 1.5 inch top of poplar. So thats why the boards fit this width. Now I had prepped the cardboard arch before by taking a large cardstock and folding it in half and making a longer curve than needed. the fold is the centerpoint. When open both halves match. So the boards together let me mark the order, look for flaws that I can change the order. the plans call for 8 but I am going with 6 and a bit of space between about 1/2 inch. After I mark the curve its band saw time and collect the cut offs…not off cuts…for the camping trip. Now I have another set of 6 boards for the second chair, this is why 2 chairs at once is easy. Also in the next step a bit of the same with checking and flaws. Choose a better board or rearrange for knots. These will be painted pine and in the shade so that needs to be factored in. No one wants a knot to bleed sap on their clothes and you can work around that on the seat boards and back boards where you put certain knots.
More assembly in the next step.
Thanks…
Wood Wood stain Hardwood Flooring Varnish


Wood Wood stain Hardwood Flooring Varnish
Templates are aways a great thing to make up. I'll do about the same if I know I will be making more of an item.
 

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#20 ·
Assemble the backs part 2..check and check

Wood Wood stain Plank Boats and boating--Equipment and supplies Floor


Wood Wood stain Plank Hardwood Composite material


Wood Wood stain Flooring Hardwood Plank


Wood Plant Office ruler Wood stain Rectangle


Part 2 of assemble the backs. I like to assemble the boards of the backs as a unit, not what the plans call for. This give me the arch and spacing more to my taste and easy to hold the boards for predrilling all screw holes. Only the middle board for the arm attachment do i mark on the back but hold off on drilling until I am sure. With its angled edge there is no correction. Also this has only so much overhang to attach to the ends of the arms in these plans it is easier to remake this board and not remake the arms. So the bottom is an 8 inch by 24. The full length is 36 at the middle and about 33 at the side edges after the cut. So now i see spacing and look. Also the top cross piece is able to be cut to length or width since we are looking at the back of the unit. In PA I liked this better for water runoff, the plans had the bottom board on the front and I saw that as a pocket for water to collect. We are going to mount 2Ă—4 corner blocks inside the frame so this will keep it square and not just screws on the sides to this bottom board and the glue. Another point why my older ones lasted almost 20 years. You can see in this step where you will predrill two screws per board in the top and bottom cross piece. Recheck any for flaws, knots or checks. When i assemble this into the chair frame, I will have the chair sideways and screws ready into the side legs and the arms dry mounted in the front. the back cross board ready to clamp on. Its been over 7 years since i made the last 2 chairs but those short cut steps of working by yourself you learn and don't lose too fast after so many. More sanding and routing to dao and Painting in the slats will be easy not like 1/4 inch slats space.
 

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#21 ·
Assemble the backs part 2..check and check

Wood Wood stain Plank Boats and boating--Equipment and supplies Floor


Wood Wood stain Plank Hardwood Composite material


Wood Wood stain Flooring Hardwood Plank


Wood Plant Office ruler Wood stain Rectangle


Part 2 of assemble the backs. I like to assemble the boards of the backs as a unit, not what the plans call for. This give me the arch and spacing more to my taste and easy to hold the boards for predrilling all screw holes. Only the middle board for the arm attachment do i mark on the back but hold off on drilling until I am sure. With its angled edge there is no correction. Also this has only so much overhang to attach to the ends of the arms in these plans it is easier to remake this board and not remake the arms. So the bottom is an 8 inch by 24. The full length is 36 at the middle and about 33 at the side edges after the cut. So now i see spacing and look. Also the top cross piece is able to be cut to length or width since we are looking at the back of the unit. In PA I liked this better for water runoff, the plans had the bottom board on the front and I saw that as a pocket for water to collect. We are going to mount 2Ă—4 corner blocks inside the frame so this will keep it square and not just screws on the sides to this bottom board and the glue. Another point why my older ones lasted almost 20 years. You can see in this step where you will predrill two screws per board in the top and bottom cross piece. Recheck any for flaws, knots or checks. When i assemble this into the chair frame, I will have the chair sideways and screws ready into the side legs and the arms dry mounted in the front. the back cross board ready to clamp on. Its been over 7 years since i made the last 2 chairs but those short cut steps of working by yourself you learn and don't lose too fast after so many. More sanding and routing to dao and Painting in the slats will be easy not like 1/4 inch slats space.
I like to use a metal 36 in rule for furniture. I also have a 48 in rule for other large work. No mistakes like with a tape measure. both are from HF and worth the cost. For my table saw fence setting I use a metal 12 inch rule since most rip cuts are under 12 inch and I get the accuracy I want. Find a combination square and use it.
 

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#23 ·
Drill Press mode in a Really really small shed shop...got to see this..

Wood Flooring Hardwood House Shade


Wood Vehicle Motor vehicle Engineering Machine


Wood Automotive design Engineering Machine Toolroom


Wood Automotive design Engineering Machine Toolroom


Motor vehicle Wood Automotive design Engineering Building


So this shed shop is 8×16 and The ShopSmith 510 fits many roles here. One comment was what about drill press mode and it was time to drill parallel holes in the two back boards for the back frame. After I marked the boards, i set the table to position, i have the Lift Assist so the piston can raise the motor unit, And the new red castors roll very well. So with the fence ready i rolled the SS into the spot I usually stand at my bench and that's the view you see. Drill press ready with fence to drill two rows of 6 holes in 4 boards from where I stand. Also my view of out the double doors to my backyard. I don't often work with the doors closed even in December, its better to have another layer of sweatshirt or jacket than work in the box. So I clicked the remote for the Dust collector on the motor unit and did the holes in a few moments. A bit of clean up. Unnlocked the wheels. Rolled the SS back into usual place, a quick moment to set up the table saw and ripped the one board to match the other and also cut off about 3 inches. All took about half hour. Now this was 7:30 to 9 am and its fun because at 9 I came in and its already 99 degrees here in July 9th. As i send this, I still have trouble adjusting to not going to my shop just any old time I want like I did in PA. There it is 75 degrees, oh my. I am here to live by my children and this is my world. My SS is a 1980 model-I looked up the numbers-- with many extras, running well. I really am not sure about the upgrade to the PowerPro for the cost but if gifted I would not decline the offer. ( yeah that ain't gonna happen for $2400 ) but who knows. Please keep up reading. I found Norm Abrams Plans…Classics from the NYW have his Adirondack chair is close to my plans if you want patterns, try some used book store or however. Also see his build on utube.
 

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#24 ·
Drill Press mode in a Really really small shed shop...got to see this..

Wood Flooring Hardwood House Shade


Wood Vehicle Motor vehicle Engineering Machine


Wood Automotive design Engineering Machine Toolroom


Wood Automotive design Engineering Machine Toolroom


Motor vehicle Wood Automotive design Engineering Building


So this shed shop is 8×16 and The ShopSmith 510 fits many roles here. One comment was what about drill press mode and it was time to drill parallel holes in the two back boards for the back frame. After I marked the boards, i set the table to position, i have the Lift Assist so the piston can raise the motor unit, And the new red castors roll very well. So with the fence ready i rolled the SS into the spot I usually stand at my bench and that's the view you see. Drill press ready with fence to drill two rows of 6 holes in 4 boards from where I stand. Also my view of out the double doors to my backyard. I don't often work with the doors closed even in December, its better to have another layer of sweatshirt or jacket than work in the box. So I clicked the remote for the Dust collector on the motor unit and did the holes in a few moments. A bit of clean up. Unnlocked the wheels. Rolled the SS back into usual place, a quick moment to set up the table saw and ripped the one board to match the other and also cut off about 3 inches. All took about half hour. Now this was 7:30 to 9 am and its fun because at 9 I came in and its already 99 degrees here in July 9th. As i send this, I still have trouble adjusting to not going to my shop just any old time I want like I did in PA. There it is 75 degrees, oh my. I am here to live by my children and this is my world. My SS is a 1980 model-I looked up the numbers-- with many extras, running well. I really am not sure about the upgrade to the PowerPro for the cost but if gifted I would not decline the offer. ( yeah that ain't gonna happen for $2400 ) but who knows. Please keep up reading. I found Norm Abrams Plans…Classics from the NYW have his Adirondack chair is close to my plans if you want patterns, try some used book store or however. Also see his build on utube.
You have a lot packed in your shop. Nice write up. As for the Shopsmith, it can be a wonderful tool to use for some applications. I do like having mine, but I also like the stand alone tools I have in the shop.
 

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#25 ·
Stupid Hot and what to do...Sanding of Course

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Varnish Table


Imagine a Chilly snowy cold day in February and you just cannot stand another moment of any work outside in the cold, so you head to the shop. IN PHOENIX in July the heat at 9 am was already 100, no humidity so you head to the shop to do what you can and get in some shop time before you are TOAST, my parallel weather to chilly winter and trapped indoors later today when its over 105 at noon what air conditioning in my shop.. October to May is great temperature.
Now I have had 2 great vacations and made slow progress on these chairs, so the arms and legs were ready for sanding. I thought i would show the leg pattern i have in paneling and the two pieces in poplar. Now I changed the arm pattern to have a slight bend and angle to the rear end. So with these pieces already rounded over with the router, this was not a long morning. into the vise and sand away. Now I spend some extra on the front curves of the arms where hands will touch the wood, even painted a bad job is a bad job. This is poplar so the edges worked very nice. So after an hour with the swamp cooler doing its thing, I had all 8 pieces sanded Next steps will be side legs to front cross piece. Check for front corner block. Mark and position front legs. Screws and predrill. We will be using Titebond III so I will do a dry fit then glue and attach. Bolts into the front legs to side legs also. Once at this point check for square and seat height. The leg pattern has hole positions for the screws into the back frame, so that gets pencil marked and later checked when the arms are mounted aligned with the mid cross piece since it bolts and screws to the arms. This is when the moment of assembly gets a bit crazy.
Thanks Hal
 

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#26 ·
Stupid Hot and what to do...Sanding of Course

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Varnish Table


Imagine a Chilly snowy cold day in February and you just cannot stand another moment of any work outside in the cold, so you head to the shop. IN PHOENIX in July the heat at 9 am was already 100, no humidity so you head to the shop to do what you can and get in some shop time before you are TOAST, my parallel weather to chilly winter and trapped indoors later today when its over 105 at noon what air conditioning in my shop.. October to May is great temperature.
Now I have had 2 great vacations and made slow progress on these chairs, so the arms and legs were ready for sanding. I thought i would show the leg pattern i have in paneling and the two pieces in poplar. Now I changed the arm pattern to have a slight bend and angle to the rear end. So with these pieces already rounded over with the router, this was not a long morning. into the vise and sand away. Now I spend some extra on the front curves of the arms where hands will touch the wood, even painted a bad job is a bad job. This is poplar so the edges worked very nice. So after an hour with the swamp cooler doing its thing, I had all 8 pieces sanded Next steps will be side legs to front cross piece. Check for front corner block. Mark and position front legs. Screws and predrill. We will be using Titebond III so I will do a dry fit then glue and attach. Bolts into the front legs to side legs also. Once at this point check for square and seat height. The leg pattern has hole positions for the screws into the back frame, so that gets pencil marked and later checked when the arms are mounted aligned with the mid cross piece since it bolts and screws to the arms. This is when the moment of assembly gets a bit crazy.
Thanks Hal
Hot shops aren't much fun. I hate the sweat dripping on my projects (or worse, my tools!!).
 

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#27 ·
8 sided miter cuts WOW..Chair almost screwed up...Chair layout

Wood Hardwood Flooring Font Wooden block


Wood Wood stain Flooring Floor Red


Wood Wood stain Automotive exterior Hardwood Plywood


New miter sled and an Octogon frame test cut lookiing good. I measured 3 inch parts on a 2 inch wide board and had to mark both sides ( they don't tell you that !!!! ) then carefully cut away and it came out like so. this is a rubber band clamp. Very pleased. Now the chair continues. I checked the front legs, picked the better sides and edges for right and left and 2 pair. Also the front cross board, all this to conceal any knots or sap. lets put those where they won't show. And checking the first side leg, I missed cutting the angle on the end.. Now you can see I marked the inset on the front leg and the height for the leg. Also for the 2x corner block. The dots should be screw or bolt holes. I missed cutting off the angled front edge of the 4 legs so that's tomorrow. The larger pic is the layout of the side leg and front leg., more to note here is the mid point where the back comes in and that point is about a foot from table edge--or floor level. This is why these chairs do not sit low like some other Adirondack chairs….14.5 inch at the front and about 12 at the rear of the seat, most others are much lower at both points.
 

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#28 ·
8 sided miter cuts WOW..Chair almost screwed up...Chair layout

Wood Hardwood Flooring Font Wooden block


Wood Wood stain Flooring Floor Red


Wood Wood stain Automotive exterior Hardwood Plywood


New miter sled and an Octogon frame test cut lookiing good. I measured 3 inch parts on a 2 inch wide board and had to mark both sides ( they don't tell you that !!!! ) then carefully cut away and it came out like so. this is a rubber band clamp. Very pleased. Now the chair continues. I checked the front legs, picked the better sides and edges for right and left and 2 pair. Also the front cross board, all this to conceal any knots or sap. lets put those where they won't show. And checking the first side leg, I missed cutting the angle on the end.. Now you can see I marked the inset on the front leg and the height for the leg. Also for the 2x corner block. The dots should be screw or bolt holes. I missed cutting off the angled front edge of the 4 legs so that's tomorrow. The larger pic is the layout of the side leg and front leg., more to note here is the mid point where the back comes in and that point is about a foot from table edge--or floor level. This is why these chairs do not sit low like some other Adirondack chairs….14.5 inch at the front and about 12 at the rear of the seat, most others are much lower at both points.
Looks like you did well with the sled for segments. And now you moving along with the chair.
 

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#29 ·
Assembully 101 chair frame and my workbench

Wood Tree Table Wood stain Floor


Wood Electrical wiring Gas Machine Shelving


Wood Automotive design Hardwood Engineering Flooring


Wood Wood stain Table Hardwood Flooring


Wood Tool Flooring Hardwood Shelf


Hi welcome to a big step in the build. All that precut and premarking made today go fast in the hour of heat by 9:30 am. Today is a dry fit matching parts and checking before i glue with Titebond III. Its been a few years and I am looking at the plans but no mistakes even with coffee to help So you can see the side legs were trimmed at the front edge…that was the last blog…I cut 4 corners this morning on the new sled. Picked the matching legs and corner blocks. Predrilled with a brad point bit since this is hidden inside the frame. Today you can see the corner block and room for a bolt, I think that will keep the front leg to side leg stronger over the years. Also the wood clamps to be my extra hands. My bench is 29 inch wide, I used to think that 24 inch was perfect until I tried a few Adirondack chairs. Even in my other shops I never had room for a large assembly table. Above the bench is a cubby for 4 sanders, portables on top, batteries, etc. The drill holders I made last year and like them. I predrilled the front board and added the screws since by myself I had the ability to get the screws into the ends while balancing the corner and holding the 2×4 corner block. Anything helps. I show the side leg pattern and a ruler to show the seat height I have been talking about and will now stop nagging about that. Go sit in some other Adirondack.
 

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#30 ·
Assembully 101 chair frame and my workbench

Wood Tree Table Wood stain Floor


Wood Electrical wiring Gas Machine Shelving


Wood Automotive design Hardwood Engineering Flooring


Wood Wood stain Table Hardwood Flooring


Wood Tool Flooring Hardwood Shelf


Hi welcome to a big step in the build. All that precut and premarking made today go fast in the hour of heat by 9:30 am. Today is a dry fit matching parts and checking before i glue with Titebond III. Its been a few years and I am looking at the plans but no mistakes even with coffee to help So you can see the side legs were trimmed at the front edge…that was the last blog…I cut 4 corners this morning on the new sled. Picked the matching legs and corner blocks. Predrilled with a brad point bit since this is hidden inside the frame. Today you can see the corner block and room for a bolt, I think that will keep the front leg to side leg stronger over the years. Also the wood clamps to be my extra hands. My bench is 29 inch wide, I used to think that 24 inch was perfect until I tried a few Adirondack chairs. Even in my other shops I never had room for a large assembly table. Above the bench is a cubby for 4 sanders, portables on top, batteries, etc. The drill holders I made last year and like them. I predrilled the front board and added the screws since by myself I had the ability to get the screws into the ends while balancing the corner and holding the 2×4 corner block. Anything helps. I show the side leg pattern and a ruler to show the seat height I have been talking about and will now stop nagging about that. Go sit in some other Adirondack.
You are moving along. When working by yourself, we come up with some ingenious ideas to assist.
 

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#31 ·
Tuesday...Chair And Shop Tour Tuesday

Wood Wood stain Floor Flooring Hardwood


Wood Shipping box Hardwood Flooring Engineering


Shelf Wood Shelving Tin can Gas


Wood Electrical wiring Engineering Machine Workbench


Table Wood Engineering Workbench Art


Shoe Shelf Wood Shelving Building


First, we glued and screwed the seat frame from yesterday with Titebond III. New to me and its a bit more runny thaAn I expected. I chose the seat boards and arranged as I wanted to hide any knots or cracks. The plans call for narrow boards but I am doing 3.5 inch so only using 5. the plans would use 8 even with the gap. At the front leg board 2 is notched around the back of the leg. Now on to most of the Shop 16 foot wall in these pics. The extra wood for back slats-2 chairs-is against my planer and miter saw in a flip over stand, behind them is my clamp rack. to the left is a BD Workmate for outside work. Along the wall I have shelves for stains and above them more space for the next seat boards and the brackets for the arms. This is across from the Shopsmith. At the Middle is a clock I made from a steel saw blade with stick on numbers. and the start of the french cleat wall across from my bench. Opposite my bench is a craftsman tool chest with 4 inch sander and bench drill press. Also the junk on the Cleats.
At the 8 foot end is a mix of bins for screws, more assorted parts for projects, all this on 2Ă—4 that span the Shed. Underneath are 2 shelf units for portables and more portables under my workbench. i have a stool that is in the way and sometimes I want to put it out. My trash can is under the vise of the workbench and I have had it there for lyears. Hope you like the short tour.
 

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#32 ·
Half a chair, do unto another and Shop Tip I learned at Class

Wood Building Interior design Floor House


Wood Wood stain Art Table Hardwood


Table Wood Wood stain Hardwood Flooring


Today is glue and screw the seat boards. I almost messed up with holes marked over the side legs and seat boards not rounded over. Got to check those parts before assembled. Predrilled the holes on the small drill press. Next sanded the brackets for the arm rests, OOOPs , found that 2 of 4, we are making 2 chairs were not square on the top so more sanding with stationary sander. Now do to another. I was marking the center of the front upright legs for the holes and remembered to grab the other pair for chair 2. so now those are pencil marked. It does help to make 2 at a time. Predrilled and screwed the brackets, then went back and unscrewed and glued and screwed. this is not a clampable position so the predrill helped with holes when i had glue and parts could move. Drill bits are my BRAD POINT bits stored in a wood block and marked with a sharpie. SHOP TIP while at a class at Woodworkers Source the leader showed using a 90% angle plate to transfer lines around a board. Now I found this very useful in this build and so easy to keep one or two around my tools. just big enough to go around the edge and down the side, easy to hold and not going to move, cost about 69 cents.
 

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#33 ·
Half a chair, do unto another and Shop Tip I learned at Class

Wood Building Interior design Floor House


Wood Wood stain Art Table Hardwood


Table Wood Wood stain Hardwood Flooring


Today is glue and screw the seat boards. I almost messed up with holes marked over the side legs and seat boards not rounded over. Got to check those parts before assembled. Predrilled the holes on the small drill press. Next sanded the brackets for the arm rests, OOOPs , found that 2 of 4, we are making 2 chairs were not square on the top so more sanding with stationary sander. Now do to another. I was marking the center of the front upright legs for the holes and remembered to grab the other pair for chair 2. so now those are pencil marked. It does help to make 2 at a time. Predrilled and screwed the brackets, then went back and unscrewed and glued and screwed. this is not a clampable position so the predrill helped with holes when i had glue and parts could move. Drill bits are my BRAD POINT bits stored in a wood block and marked with a sharpie. SHOP TIP while at a class at Woodworkers Source the leader showed using a 90% angle plate to transfer lines around a board. Now I found this very useful in this build and so easy to keep one or two around my tools. just big enough to go around the edge and down the side, easy to hold and not going to move, cost about 69 cents.
Later today. I moved ahead on chair 2 and glued the front and side legs together to set overnight. So all that prep can speed up the same frame assembly when I find some room for parts.
Next step will be assemble the back as a unit and that was in an earlier blog layout the pieces and trim the top curve and the bottom board drill the screw holes. Did that for both chairs also. Two at once is not so bad.
 

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#35 ·
Great morning building more..and more by 9 am.

Handheld power drill Pneumatic tool Wood Hammer drill Drill


Plant Wood Hardwood Wood stain Beam


Table Wood Floor Hardwood Wood stain


Wood Wood stain Hardwood Flooring Lumber


Wood Outdoor furniture Grass Rectangle Road surface


Up and at em by 7:30.. fans on. So I put together to leg set for chair 2 front leg to side leg with screws. also predrilled the holes for the arm brackets and the holes for the front board. I did not mount the board in place or would have run out of room today. But working on the two back frame pieces gave me lots of space. So you can see the slat spacing and top cross piece and bottom larger piece. The mid piece I learned to work last as it mounts to the back of the arms so fitting it later and screw holes is a custom fit.It has a bevel cut to hold the back. Also gave me the chance to look over the slats as this is a show off part and sand off errors. In the plans they want you to do this one by one with the chair upriight, and i found that a bit tedious and not see the big picture of the curve. Also cut that curve is easier not in the air. So with the bench clean. AHHH. Then a pic of parts done today. 2 back frames, leg set for chair 2, and the first chair outdoors--I even gave it a test sitting, very good. The chairs will be a white paint to hold up in the sunshine under my back patio. Not in the sunshine, so i am working on long life here.
 

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#36 ·
Great morning building more..and more by 9 am.

Handheld power drill Pneumatic tool Wood Hammer drill Drill


Plant Wood Hardwood Wood stain Beam


Table Wood Floor Hardwood Wood stain


Wood Wood stain Hardwood Flooring Lumber


Wood Outdoor furniture Grass Rectangle Road surface


Up and at em by 7:30.. fans on. So I put together to leg set for chair 2 front leg to side leg with screws. also predrilled the holes for the arm brackets and the holes for the front board. I did not mount the board in place or would have run out of room today. But working on the two back frame pieces gave me lots of space. So you can see the slat spacing and top cross piece and bottom larger piece. The mid piece I learned to work last as it mounts to the back of the arms so fitting it later and screw holes is a custom fit.It has a bevel cut to hold the back. Also gave me the chance to look over the slats as this is a show off part and sand off errors. In the plans they want you to do this one by one with the chair upriight, and i found that a bit tedious and not see the big picture of the curve. Also cut that curve is easier not in the air. So with the bench clean. AHHH. Then a pic of parts done today. 2 back frames, leg set for chair 2, and the first chair outdoors--I even gave it a test sitting, very good. The chairs will be a white paint to hold up in the sunshine under my back patio. Not in the sunshine, so i am working on long life here.
That is looking good, I like the higher seat, easier to get out if I would think. And the gentle slope of the back instead of the curved ones. Well done.
 

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