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Blog entry by nobuckle posted 01-07-2011 03:21 AM 4269 reads 0 times favorited 6 comments Add to Favorites Watch

I am in the process of finishing a lazy susan. The plans I’m using call for dowels to be placed 20 degrees apart around the circumfrence of the top. I could lay these out and drill them by hand but I can’t seem to hand drill a straight hole to save my life. What I have in mind is a jig that uses a pin to lock the top in place so that I can drill the holes using my drill press. Obviously there will be a pivot point that will allow the top to rotate. Here is a Sketchup model of what the jig might look like;

You can see that the top will also be held in place by a couple of toggle clamps. The whole jig will be clamped to the table of the drill press.


1. Have any of you made a jig similar to this for a similar purpose?
2. What could be added/removed to make the jig function better?
3. What concerns, comments, criticisms, or challenges do you have? (Yes, I appreciate constructive criticism)

Thank you for your time.

-- Doug - Make an effort to live by the slogan "We try harder"

6 comments so far

View matt garcia's profile

matt garcia

1897 posts in 3700 days

#1 posted 01-07-2011 03:38 AM

Doug, have you ever seen this?

-- Matt Garcia Wannabe Period Furniture Maker, Houston TX

View RussInMichigan's profile


600 posts in 2809 days

#2 posted 01-07-2011 03:58 AM

You’re right on the mark. The build time will definitely pay off. If you think you might do more drilling of circular stock, put a hook on the back and hang it out of the way. One nice feature of your design is that you can add more locking pin blocks for more preset precise angles or you can simply eyeball it and use your toggle clamps when precision is not a big concern.

Good luck.

View BertFlores58's profile


1698 posts in 2951 days

#3 posted 01-07-2011 04:14 AM

This may sound different but when it comes to drilling perpendicular to the board that is not really deep enough, I use a plunge router. Adapt a compass router attachment and set the right radius. Mark the center line where the router should be alligned. Set the depth and route with spiral bits. I find this easy because I can clamp the router firm enough to my working table making use of the compass router attachment protrusion from the base of the router. You can also make holes of different radii from the circle center with a quick adjustment.

-- Bert

View alan coon's profile

alan coon

115 posts in 3741 days

#4 posted 01-07-2011 05:00 AM

Use two mirrors at a 90 o/o look at the reflection,you can mark the mirrors with a marker for ref. point and you will be perpendicular.

-- Al, South E. Az., But it's a dry heat.

View John Stegall's profile (online now)

John Stegall

507 posts in 3545 days

#5 posted 01-07-2011 02:44 PM

Your jig looks fine. The current issue of Popular Woodworking shows the jig that Al mentions online here:

This would allow you to use the hand drill.

-- jstegall

View lilredweldingrod's profile


2496 posts in 3135 days

#6 posted 01-07-2011 09:33 PM

With the space between the disc and the base, when you clamp the disc,it will force a warp in the jig. How about two blocks just under each clamp? Other than that I see no problems that are obvious. This is going to be a great jig. I use mine for everything up to and including finishing. I used a Lazy Susan bearing on mine. Center it oto the base and flip it over, drill one hole to allow screwing the top to the disc.

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