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View SPalm's profile

Another Cutting Board Design

07-12-2010 05:00 PM by SPalm | 26 comments »

I am in the process of building another board and thought I would share my thinking process along with some build pictures. When I came up with the design for the Steps board, I was thinking about how one draws a 3D box on a piece of paper. You draw a large square, and then add small mitered edges to one corner to give the appearance of seeing it slightly from the side. Making these miters out of two different woods adds to the shadows, which adds to the effect. I did this for the Steps b...

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View Filinvested's profile

Scraps to Beads

10-16-2010 01:13 PM by Filinvested | 20 comments »

I’ll try to explain how I did this project:http://lumberjocks.com/projects/38288 1. I take a cutoffs, which just can’t to waste 2. Cut them into small pieces, not necessarily cubic: 3. Disks we need: 40, 120, 320 sand paper and wool disk 4. A tin and PVC stripes for soundproofing: 5. My driil. It can work for hours at speed ‘C/D’ (i have been told it could be problem for drills). 6. An IKEA stool and milled groove in it for the tin. 7. The...

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View mafe's profile

FABRIKKEN - THE FACTORY #1: Shop tour 2014 - finally back.

01-24-2014 12:39 PM by mafe | 62 comments »

Shop tour 2014 finally back Finally back in the shop and today I finished the last details, so I hereby declare the shop open! This picture are from last week, but it’s how the shop looks from the street in the evening light.My shaving horse functions as a bench, here people passing can take a rest and I can enjoy some quiet moments, with a pipe of tobacco or a slice of bread. My shop is located in the center of Copenhagen, Denmark, right next to what we call the lakes. Since we a...

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View shipwright's profile

Quick, Cheap Thickness Sander for ShopSmith or Lathe #1: How little can I get away with building?

11-28-2011 02:48 AM by shipwright | 20 comments »

I’ve just returned to my winter home / shop in Arizona. At home I have all the tools and lots of space but here I have 1/2 a garage and a much smaller budget. That’s no reason not to have all the toys, you just have to be a bit more creative. What I need to go with the chevalet I built here last winter, to pursue marquetry, is a veneer press and a thickness sander. The press can wait until next week but the sander gets built now. Criteria:1) Gotta be cheap2) Gotta be precisi...

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View Mike Lingenfelter's profile

Jigs and Fixtures #1: Planer Sled

05-22-2008 02:39 AM by Mike Lingenfelter | 21 comments »

As part of my workbench project I needed to mill up a somewhat large piece of lumber for the main chop on my face vise. It was larger than my 6” Jointer could handle. I needed to find an easy way to mill the 2 large faces. I have been wanting to make a Planer Sled for awhile now, so that’s what I did. I based mine on one Keith Rust did for Fine Woodworking “Flatten Boards without a Jointer”. This article is available at finewoodworking.com, but it is only available if you have a ...

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View trifern's profile

2 DYE 4

06-16-2009 06:33 AM by trifern | 53 comments »

I have had numerous requests for a how to blog about my dyeing techniques. I use water base aniline dyes. This technique the dye is applied using 20 cent sponge brushes and cheap paper towels. I typically work from the darkest colors to the lightest, creating layers of color. This piece is turned from fiddle back maple. My apologies for not taking a photograph prior to applying any dyes. The first coat is black. I apply the dye liberally inside and out. I then wipe the outside with a...

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View tenontim's profile

Face Jointing Wide Boards on a 6" Jointer

11-23-2011 04:02 PM by tenontim | 13 comments »

After commenting and following a post by MichaelJ, I decided that a picture or two is worth a thousand words. So, here’s how I do it. (I had also posted in the past another way, but I like this method better)First, remove the blade guard on your planer. Set the fence to the maximum width.Face joint the board as you normally would, until the jointable surface is flat.You should now have the flat, jointed surface and the “rabbet” from the overhang.This is the spacer board, whi...

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