Copper Patina Garden Gate

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Blog series by newTim updated 06-17-2009 06:21 AM 10 parts 71853 reads 20 comments total

Part 1: In for a penny, in for a ton

06-01-2009 07:53 PM by newTim | 7 comments »

Ever since I saw David Marks’ Japanese Garden gate I was intrigued. I think it is the idea of working with wood, metal, chemicals, heat, and a creative process that caught my attention. It also helps to end up with something functional that is, hopefully, attractive to boot. So far my research has included re-reading David Marks DIY project page on this and his other patina projects, viewing Ron Young’s patina DVDs, looking at the Art Chemicals webpage, and searching the ...

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Part 2: Arches & Jughead

06-04-2009 07:10 PM by newTim | 0 comments »

Arcs, tangents, degrees, rays, minutes, arctangents, radians. Like Jughead I don’t know anything about this stuff, but that is probably unfair to Jughead. So here’s what I’ve learned so far. The two main considerations are whether the width of the arch rail will be the same as the stiles, and the degree or diameter or curve of the arch. The minimum curve diameter that is flush with the outside dimension is the width of the gate itself. This also produces the sharpest ...

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Part 3: Knowns & Unknowns

06-04-2009 08:31 PM by newTim | 5 comments »

The challenge is trimming the arch rail to the exact width at the exact angle which, when combined with the bottom rail, will produce a square frame. These things I know. The interior width of the gate should be slightly wider than the copper panel which is 24” (because I don’t want to mess with cutting the copper). The width of the arch must be exactly the same width of the bottom rail. The sides of the arch rail must be parallel. And the most important thing, the centerli...

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Part 4: Cutting the Segmented Arches

06-08-2009 06:09 PM by newTim | 0 comments »

Firstly… acknowledgements and thanks to Jlsmith for his response and link to Gary Katz's Sketchup Video on segmented arches. It was very helpful in my understanding of the topic of concentric circles, arches, and such. I divided the arch cut in to three parts. The first was to cut the outside arch. Second was the inside arch. Third was to complete each cut using a flush trim bit to reference off the first cut for each. I set up the door frame on a large piece of MDF on my (new) ...

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Part 5: Mortise Magic

06-08-2009 07:30 PM by newTim | 0 comments »

The gate frame is joined with mortise and loose tennons, although there’s nothing loose about them. Cutting matching mortises is a two-step process. First is cutting the mortises to length (4 1/2”, bottom, 2 1/2” top), width (3/4”), and initial depth (about 1 1/4”) using the Mortise Pal jig. The second step is adding more depth to the mortises (2 1/4”). The largest mortise using this jig is 1/2” x 2 1/2” x about 1 1/4” deep. To prod...

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Part 6: Dryfit & teaser

06-08-2009 08:17 PM by newTim | 1 comment »

Except for the fact the tennons were a little tight and there was a slight gap in one of the joints, both of which were quickly corrected on the belt sander, the frame easily fit together. Here’s the first dryfit. There was a slight gap in the upper and lower right joints. A quick touch of the upper arch on the belt sander fixed both. And here’s a tease of things to come!

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Part 7: Pop the Copper

06-10-2009 08:41 PM by newTim | 6 comments »

Here’s my first attempt at the hot patina process. All but one of the chemicals arrived from ArtChemicals, the Cupric Nitrate being on back order. I decided I couldn’t wait and pressed on anyway. I printed labels so I could keep better track of the chemical blends and colors each was supposed to produce. I learned two things right away. The first is this is a complicated process. The second is you really can’t mess it up. I used the method demonstrated by David Marks ...

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Part 8: Bent Laminated Stays

06-13-2009 06:43 AM by newTim | 0 comments »

There are a number of ways to hold the panel in place. You could cut a rabbet on the inside edge, or you could cut a groove on the inside of the stiles and rails like a cabinet door panel. I chose to stick with the method David Marks used, panel stays. Yet once again, there is an arch to deal with. This time I thought I would just use the top rail as a bending template for a bent lamination to ensure a good fit. The plan was to resaw thin strips 2” wide and just long enough to fit ...

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Part 9: Pre-Finish

06-16-2009 06:45 AM by newTim | 0 comments »

Nothing real exciting at this point. Just wanted to have a complete blog on this project. I used the Turnlock System and Circle Jig by Milescraft to cut the arch in the panel. I noticed a nice review was posted by Teenagewoodworker on this jig and plan to my experience and thoughts when I get a chance. The bent laminations fit nicely and the whole thing easily went together, which is a pleasant change from my normal routine. I installed one side of the stays and left the othe...

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Part 10: Ready to hang

06-17-2009 06:21 AM by newTim | 1 comment »

First… after seeing Trifern’s secrets on dyeing I wonder how a door would look? Guess I’ll have to give it a try. Anyway, here’s the gate with several coats of outdoor oil over some redwood stain. The colors in the photo are pretty accurate. The top picture gives a good comparison of the treated and untreated copper panel. Once the gate is hung I will post a final blog on this series with photos and some specifications and tips I learned on this project. An...

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