I’ll save the outside (curved front veneering) story for later. For now I decided to cover the drawer construction itself. I can’t remember the order I did things anyway. The top picture shows a fully assembled drawer and gives a good idea of where we want to end up and hints at some of the challenges along the way. On this project the drawers are everything. They dictate the angles, final measurements of the cabinet, the proportions of the top and bottom, and as you’ll see later on, the “ribs” as I call them which also serve as the drawer handles.
I decided to break the drawer construction into three parts. This will serve as the overview and will also show trimming the fronts, and cutting the sides. In the next chapter I’ll show the joinery of the sides to the fronts using some slick double sided half-blind sliding dovetails, along with another special jig for accurate and safe cuts. Whew, don’t want to miss that. Finally I’ll show how I cut and shaped the bottoms including the center, wide dovetail, drawer slides. You won’t want to miss that either. :) So on with the show.
I already showed how I used the bandsaw to trim the drawers to width, or height. I used several methods to cut them to the exact length. Remember, all these cuts have to be perfectly plumb and square, and the exact length, or the cabinet will not be square and ultimately level.
This picture shows a fully assembled drawer. The question is how to connect the sides to the front? Another is how to make the drawer track so it can be lined up with the sides of the cabinet, stop where it should so the fronts line up, and lastly, won’t sag too badly or fall out when opened.
I mainly used the chop saw the trim the sides of the fronts, but I also used the table saw. No, I’m not trying to see if my saw will cut through brick. I found it was easier to weight the piece this way so it stayed in position until I could secure it with a clamp. I did the same on the table saw with a cross cut sled for the longer (bottom) drawer.
Here you can see the results. Plumb, square, and ready to continue.
I calculated the angle of the drawer sides that would allow them to be square and parallel. The back or end of the drawer fronts are flat for about three or four inches so this is fairly easy to figure. The big question is how to join them.
A standard shop made tenoning type jig made the trim work relatively easy. And safe!
Results? Not bad.
Next chapter I’ll show the connection between the sides and front.
-- tim hill www.newcalshop.com