So the thing fits the space. It looks proportionally correct. And it seems to be doing the job. But there’s a number of items that still need to be decided. The real key was the trade off between the angle of the sides, the width of the drawers, and the arc of the front in relation to each other. The smaller the diameter or arc of the front, in other words, the sharper the point, the narrower the drawers would be. And together with the angle of the sides those dimensions dictated the depth of the drawer as well. Then there’s the biggest issue of all.
I had to figure out how to build the darn thing. How to connect the curved drawer fronts to the straight sides (something I’m very proud of and you won’t want to miss), how to make the drawers operate smoothly, but fit snugly, and how to incorporate the drawer handles (yes it does have handles!) into the design, and lastly in what order would the various parts have to be assembled keeping in mind I’m using bleached holly and stained/tinted sapele!
So I built a more detailed model that I would end up using throughout the design-build process to test various configurations and workout needed techniques. It was at this point I made a crucial decision on whether to go with a bent lamination for the drawers or perhaps a pattern routing technique. I went with the latter, but I’ve come to the point where I think it would be easier and quicker to just do a large bent lamination for the case and drawers using bending plywood as a core substrate with veneer on the top and bottom, and then cut the drawer fronts away. Perhaps I’ll try that one day, until then why not do it the hard way. Isn’t that my usual method?
Well lots of clues and Easter eggs revealed here. Next time I promise to start cutting wood! Hope you are enjoying this.
-- tim hill www.newcalshop.com