Hey I want to see how this thing turns out too so I better get to it. Just a quick look at the side rails and footboard and we move on.
Just like the headboard, the footboard gets 3/8” holes to house the metal spacers. The middle hole or channel for the connector shaft having been already cut. I put some tape on the three middle holes of the jig as a reminder to just cut the top and bottom. Again, it is a pretty easy matter to line up the jig. Just find the center of the stock then slide the jig so it lines up on the cross line. A couple of small tips. One is to use the same side of the jig to register to the same side of the part being drilled. In this case the fixed side of the jig is on the outside of the piece. Another advantage of this is if the tray does slide it will likely slide to the inside and make the error on the hidden side and not on the good side. A little lesson I learned the hard way and covered in Part 9: Mortise Messup.
The side rails require 1/4” holes for the pins so all I had to do was a quick bit change. Or in this case switch routers. Once again you can see the jig can be used safely on long rails which usually require an integral tenon because they are so long.
I went ahead and drilled three holes in the side rails to better line up the router to cut the channel. Then I set up the drill press with a 1 1/2” forstner bit and set the depth so it wouldn’t drill through the outside of the rail.
The pins are made out of 1/4” steel rod I bought at Home Depot and cut using a Rotozip. I then chucked each pin into a drill and deburred and rounded one end on the disk sander.
And the proof is in the fit. Enough of this stuff. Time to do an initial assembly! You all come back now, ya hear?
-- tim hill www.newcalshop.com