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Will an epoxy coating stop sap from coming out of the wood?
-- Mother Nature created it, I just assemble it.
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#1 posted 08-19-2012 04:32 AM
Try Shellac Monte
-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture
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#2 posted 08-19-2012 04:40 PM
Monte, I just coated a slab of Juniper with epoxy and am wondering the same thing. This slab had already been finished with several coats of poly and a final coat of Trewax. Smooth as a baby’s butt to start with. Over time, the heart wood leaked some sap, so decided to try epoxy to reseal it. Will have to let you know the results over time. Am also anxious to hear more from LJ’ers about their experiences.
a1Jim, this is one of the few pieces I didn’t apply dewaxed shellac first, so maybe that would help out?
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#3 posted 08-19-2012 05:36 PM
in theory, it should.
-- Lis - Michigan - http://www.missmooseart.com - https://www.etsy.com/people/lisbokt
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#4 posted 08-19-2012 05:55 PM
I’ve heard that if the wood has been kiln-dried that the sap isn’t a problem, at least with Douglas Fir, which is famous for its sap. My DF is air dried and still I have found the sap hasn’t been a big problem, but then the wood has been sitting (after milling) for quite some time.
-- Dwight - "Free legal advice available - contact Dewey, Cheetam & Howe""
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#5 posted 08-19-2012 10:44 PM
Put down Douglas Fir flooring my 10” x 40” porch last year. Sealed every board on three sides and the ends with primer. The face got three coats of urethane. Sap hasn’t been a problem. Major shrinkage has.
But, the entire State of Nebraska has been kiln dried. Maybe we should give up on corn and get into baked senseless, sap-free lumber.
-- DJ Peck, Lincoln Nebraska. I think of my shop as Fritter City. I am the Mayor.
12622 posts in 1564 days
#6 posted 08-20-2012 01:20 AM
Shellac does it for me (I used regular Bullseye as I didn’t have any dewaxed when I built my shop cabs from some really pitchy lap siding). Never tried epoxy for this.
-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm
468 posts in 1245 days
#7 posted 08-20-2012 09:59 PM
I’ve been working Jatoba wood, for an outdoor bench, for about 3 weeks now. Prior to the start of this, I did extensive research on Exotic Woods – Teak, Jatoba, Sipo, several others. These woods withstand the outdoor elements by their natural oils.
The research concluded that if you wipe the near-finished dimensioned wood with acetone or Isopropyl (sp) alcohol – this eliminates surface oils and sanding remnants; then cover with an epoxy (I use West Systems) you should be good to go. The ISO is preferred to acetone as it has 30% water, and raises the grain slightly, giving the epoxy more to grab onto. I’ve used the West Systems G/Flex 650 as an adhesive, and it is very tough stuff.
My recommendation is to contact West Systems customer service, to discuss your particulars – they’ve been great to me, and didn’t try to ‘market’ me.MJCD
-- Lead By Example; Make a Difference
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