food contact stain or dye?

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Blog entry by Monte Pittman posted 06-27-2012 12:43 AM 2168 reads 0 times favorited 11 comments Add to Favorites Watch

I am wondering if there are any dyes it stains that can be used on wood for food contact. Hoping some of you may have an answer.

-- Nature created it, I just assemble it.

11 comments so far

View tyskkvinna's profile


1310 posts in 3037 days

#1 posted 06-27-2012 12:57 AM

If you put a food-safe finish on top of it (and a couple of layers to ensure a solid barrier) you should be able to use anything you want. I would stick to natural/food based dyes, though.

-- Lis - Michigan - -

View JollyGreen67's profile


1676 posts in 2814 days

#2 posted 06-27-2012 01:45 AM

Food coloring.

-- When I was a kid I wanted to be older . . . . . this CRAP is not what I expected !

View EmeraldDragon's profile


146 posts in 2221 days

#3 posted 06-27-2012 02:43 AM
Try this.

-- There are countless woodworking plans but have you checked out God's plan? Jeremiah 29:11

View Sarit's profile


549 posts in 3191 days

#4 posted 06-27-2012 08:03 AM

Strong coffee.

What are you trying to make and what look are you going for? For certain applications, you might not want to stain since it will make any gouges/deep scratches easily visible.

View GrandpaLen's profile


1650 posts in 2324 days

#5 posted 06-27-2012 01:24 PM


Ask any woman, “What are some of the hardest food stains to remove from clothing on laundry day”?

When I presented this question to my wife she rattled off about twenty, of which the most colorfull she said, were wine, tea, mustard, coffee and Bar-B-que sauce. These foods each in many of their own colors, for instance, coffee and teas such as green, black and regular brown, wines in various shades of red, and don’t forget about all the different colored berries the indians used to dye their materials with. All these full strength or diluted should give you a rainbow of colors to play with and then seal or top with your choice of Salad Bowl finish or poly.

I hope this opens up a world of safe colors for your palette. – Len

-- Mother Nature should be proud of what you've done with her tree. - Len ...just north of a stone's throw from the oHIo, river that is, in So. Indiana.

View Roger's profile


20929 posts in 2855 days

#6 posted 06-27-2012 04:24 PM

Gr8 subject Monte. I don’t have an answer, but, I do appreciate everyones input and links. Thnx a bunch from me.

-- Roger from KY. Work/Play/Travel Safe. Keep your dust collector fed.

View lumberjacques's profile


72 posts in 3399 days

#7 posted 07-17-2012 04:40 PM

soya sauce. also great for quick scratch touchups, as the more coats put on, the darker it gets. the first coat, if quickly wiped will put on a barely visible beige coat….

View a1Jim's profile


117160 posts in 3628 days

#8 posted 07-17-2012 04:50 PM

Use a waterbase dye and any poly top coat ,they are safe after the solvent has evaporated off. Another finish that is food safe but not that good as a water barrier is shellac ,they use it as a coating on M&Ms.

-- wood crafting & woodworking classes

View Monte Pittman's profile

Monte Pittman

29550 posts in 2389 days

#9 posted 07-17-2012 04:55 PM

Shellac is the reason they don’t melt in your hand? The still melt on the dashboard though.

-- Nature created it, I just assemble it.

View rance's profile


4259 posts in 3212 days

#10 posted 07-17-2012 04:59 PM

Food coloring, coffee, tea, spices. Look in your kitchen cupboard.

-- Backer boards, stop blocks, build oversized, and never buy a hand plane--

View BillyUP's profile


19 posts in 3852 days

#11 posted 07-17-2012 06:57 PM

I have heard much discussion over the years about “Food Safe” finish that I came to the conclusion that most do not know of which they speak. They only repeat what someone decides themselves. Having heard and read what most of the long experienced woodturners from around the world have said, l tend to go with them, in that they contend that any finish is safe, AFTER THE DRYERS EVAPORATE!!! This time varies, depending on the product. Some of the “Salad Bowl” finishes have dryers, and are fine, some never dry, (Mineral Oil, etc.), and are suspect in that they harbor bad things that grow in moist surfaces. I won’t use them !!
Most all of your “Watco Type”, Tungs, Boiled Linseed, etc., have dryers. Some take a long time to “Cure”, but they will. How do you know when their done? I can’t say, but those not as old as I am and have good sense of odor detection can tell by the absence of any odor. I contend that most problems occur from not washing in warm soapy water, rinse, dry. If your finish can’t handle that, then you should change finish.
That’s my story, and i’m sticking to it! Billy

-- Imagination is more important than Knowledge

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