food contact stain or dye?

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Blog entry by Monte Pittman posted 792 days ago 1671 reads 0 times favorited 11 comments Add to Favorites Watch

I am wondering if there are any dyes it stains that can be used on wood for food contact. Hoping some of you may have an answer.

-- Mother Nature created it, I just assemble it. - It's not ability that we often lack, but the patience to use our ability

11 comments so far

View tyskkvinna's profile


1308 posts in 1618 days

#1 posted 792 days ago

If you put a food-safe finish on top of it (and a couple of layers to ensure a solid barrier) you should be able to use anything you want. I would stick to natural/food based dyes, though.

-- Lis - Michigan - -

View Jimbo4's profile


1131 posts in 1395 days

#2 posted 792 days ago

Food coloring.

-- BELT SANDER: Used for making rectangular gouges in wood.

View EmeraldDragon's profile


145 posts in 801 days

#3 posted 792 days ago
Try this.

-- There are countless woodworking plans but have you checked out God's plan? Jeremiah 29:11

View Sarit's profile


480 posts in 1771 days

#4 posted 792 days ago

Strong coffee.

What are you trying to make and what look are you going for? For certain applications, you might not want to stain since it will make any gouges/deep scratches easily visible.

View GrandpaLen's profile


1494 posts in 904 days

#5 posted 791 days ago


Ask any woman, “What are some of the hardest food stains to remove from clothing on laundry day”?

When I presented this question to my wife she rattled off about twenty, of which the most colorfull she said, were wine, tea, mustard, coffee and Bar-B-que sauce. These foods each in many of their own colors, for instance, coffee and teas such as green, black and regular brown, wines in various shades of red, and don’t forget about all the different colored berries the indians used to dye their materials with. All these full strength or diluted should give you a rainbow of colors to play with and then seal or top with your choice of Salad Bowl finish or poly.

I hope this opens up a world of safe colors for your palette. – Len

-- Mother Nature should be proud of what you've done with her tree. - Len ...just north of a stone's throw from the oHIo, river that is, in So. Indiana.

View Roger's profile


14373 posts in 1436 days

#6 posted 791 days ago

Gr8 subject Monte. I don’t have an answer, but, I do appreciate everyones input and links. Thnx a bunch from me.

-- Roger from KY. Work/Play/Travel Safe.

View lumberjacques's profile


71 posts in 1979 days

#7 posted 771 days ago

soya sauce. also great for quick scratch touchups, as the more coats put on, the darker it gets. the first coat, if quickly wiped will put on a barely visible beige coat….

View a1Jim's profile


112015 posts in 2209 days

#8 posted 771 days ago

Use a waterbase dye and any poly top coat ,they are safe after the solvent has evaporated off. Another finish that is food safe but not that good as a water barrier is shellac ,they use it as a coating on M&Ms.

-- Custom furniture

View Monte Pittman's profile

Monte Pittman

13788 posts in 970 days

#9 posted 771 days ago

Shellac is the reason they don’t melt in your hand? The still melt on the dashboard though.

-- Mother Nature created it, I just assemble it. - It's not ability that we often lack, but the patience to use our ability

View rance's profile


4130 posts in 1792 days

#10 posted 771 days ago

Food coloring, coffee, tea, spices. Look in your kitchen cupboard.

-- Backer boards, stop blocks, build oversized, and never buy a hand plane--

View BillyUP's profile


19 posts in 2432 days

#11 posted 771 days ago

I have heard much discussion over the years about “Food Safe” finish that I came to the conclusion that most do not know of which they speak. They only repeat what someone decides themselves. Having heard and read what most of the long experienced woodturners from around the world have said, l tend to go with them, in that they contend that any finish is safe, AFTER THE DRYERS EVAPORATE!!! This time varies, depending on the product. Some of the “Salad Bowl” finishes have dryers, and are fine, some never dry, (Mineral Oil, etc.), and are suspect in that they harbor bad things that grow in moist surfaces. I won’t use them !!
Most all of your “Watco Type”, Tungs, Boiled Linseed, etc., have dryers. Some take a long time to “Cure”, but they will. How do you know when their done? I can’t say, but those not as old as I am and have good sense of odor detection can tell by the absence of any odor. I contend that most problems occur from not washing in warm soapy water, rinse, dry. If your finish can’t handle that, then you should change finish.
That’s my story, and i’m sticking to it! Billy

-- Imagination is more important than Knowledge

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