I recently purchased a Kreg Jig system for use in my first major project (an entry table/cabinet for the house). One major issue I have had is, after joining boards together for the table, the wooden Kerg plugs I purchased stick out of the pocket hole quite a bit. Filing and sanding these down took FOREVER (and at significant expense to my hands and arms).
So I looked through the LJ forums to see if anyone had a better way to resolve this…there just had to be a better way. I stumbled across a post where someone recommended just cutting your own plugs from a dowel, which would be more economical if I had not already bought the Kreg plugs, but I had so I wante dto use them.
That’s when I realized I could just cut 1/4” or a bit more off the back side of the plug, and then put them into the hold using needle-node plyers.
Sometimes the easiest solustions take a while to get to, but make the little things much easier to accomplish.
Not exactly rocket science, but hopefully someone else who is new to this as I am will come along and this will save them some frustration too.





















12 comments so far
Mike Gager
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224 posts in 162 days
posted 36 days ago
try using a router to flush trim the plug
also check out this http://woodworker.com/pocket-hole-plug-cutter-mssu-151-439.asp
new pocket hole plug cutter from woodtek
the problem with using dowels is it may not be easy to match the grain of the pocket hole so it will be easy to see the plug
mnorusis
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47 posts in 38 days
posted 36 days ago
Thats a great idea too…but I spent my October tool money on a table saw..the router is next month!
Karson
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25801 posts in 1295 days
posted 36 days ago
i’ve used a pullsaw with something thin to keep the blade from cutting into my wood. Thinner than a credit card.
-- What happens in the workshop stays in the workshop. No wait that doesn't sound right. Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †
Skarp
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178 posts in 220 days
posted 36 days ago
I trim plugs and suchlike with a block plane. Flush cut saws always seem to scratch your workpiece so I trim not quite flush and clean it up with a plane. Blue masking tape for protecting the surrounding area works well for me.
-- Ooo, er.
drgoodwood
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381 posts in 1022 days
posted 36 days ago
Here’s a saw that I use to flush cut pegs.
Lee Valley
Note: You make your own pocket pegs with this saw. It’s easier to match woods and saves having to buy special pegs.
-- Randy, Rustic Artisan, a family tradition. (No PM's - auto-deleted.) - "I am a seeker, not a follower."
Thuan
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203 posts in 712 days
posted 36 days ago
I just hammer a regular 3/8” dowel into the hole. Then do what Karson said, and finish off with a block plane or chisel depending on the accessibility of the location.
-- Thuan
mnorusis
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47 posts in 38 days
posted 36 days ago
drgoodwood,
that’s a very cool saw. Do you cut your own dowels from the left over pieces from your project to match the wood? If so, what do you use to make the dowels?
Thanks to everyone for all of the suggestions!
Jimi_C
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191 posts in 129 days
posted 35 days ago
I’m with Karson too – pull saw followed by either some chisel work or a block plane. You can use painters tape to protect the surface of the wood when you’re using the pull saw to protect it from the saw blade.
drgoodwood
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381 posts in 1022 days
posted 35 days ago
I use a dowel plate to make pegs and small dowels.
Google “dowel plate”
-- Randy, Rustic Artisan, a family tradition. (No PM's - auto-deleted.) - "I am a seeker, not a follower."
blackcherry
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730 posts in 717 days
posted 35 days ago
I’ve always use a small block plane work wonderful…Blkcherry
Kent Shepherd
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826 posts in 181 days
posted 35 days ago
I vote block plane, unless they stick way out. Then I would use a flush saw.
-- Kent Shepherd * The goal is-----More Tools!
clieb91
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681 posts in 829 days
posted 33 days ago
I have generally used a flush cutting saw and a bit of sanding afterward.
btw.. welcome to LumberJocks.
CtL
-- Chris L. "Don't Dream it, Be it."