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Paper Mold and Deckle #3: Mold Redux; or, the difference between prototyping and screwing up

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Blog entry by mileskimball posted 05-19-2013 05:39 PM 1353 reads 0 times favorited 0 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 2: frame and support bars Part 3 of Paper Mold and Deckle series Part 4: More on the deckle joint »

Having finished the white oak mold and deckle, I’m rethinking my choice of woods. Sure, white oak looks great and it’s really stout, but it weighs significantly more than the mahogany in the Timothy Moore model.

Paper mold with mesh sewn on partway:

White oak mold and deckle, from corner

I’m really happy about how the deckle came out. The joint was tricky, but quite strong despite the short grain on the nub that sticks out on one end:

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https://s3.amazonaws.com/lumberjocks.com/mn22vqy.jpg!

I realized an interesting difference in this construction, compared to most frame joinery. Most frames are joined so the two sides press on in parallel from opposite directions. For example, in a dovetailed drawer, the pins are on the front, and the two sides with tails press on the pins from left and right in opposing directions. In the joinery for the deckle, the sliding dovetail joints chase around the four corners of the frame. So the bottom right corner has the dovetail pointing right, the top right corner points up, the top left points left, and the bottom left points down.

This makes the frame harder to put together, but also less likely to fall apart.

But back to the weight: if I had to lift this out of as vat of paper pulp 500 times a day, I’d be pretty sore. So I’m thinking of redoing it all in mahogany.

-- Miles



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