Spraying Metal Question

My first instinct is to say that you need to get an appropriate primer.

I rely heavily upon the pro support that I get at any of the supply stores like Sherwin or Pittsburgh paint.

I know to spray a clear coat on aluminum, bronze, or copper I had to use an acrylic. Typical woodworking clear coatings would not be gauranteed.

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://amcraftsman.com

I don’t have a real answer, but this might work … I used to do a lot of oil painting, and art oil paints don’t stick to metal. When I wanted to paint on metal, I used boiled linseed oil as a primer. The BLO sticks to the metal and the oils stick to the BLO.

Let us know what you decide to try. I look forward to seeing the results.

-- http://www.north40custom.com -- http://north40studios.etsy.com --

Sherwin-Williams sells a product called DTM ( direct to metal ) paint. It’s easy to use because it is a latex and doesn’t require a primer. We use it for painting residential and industrial exterior doors, handrailing, etc. A 1” X 4” nap roller works excellent for applying.

Unless you really want to do it all yourself, I’d take it to a local collision repair shop and have them at least spray primer on it.

In the “old” days, everyone sprayed gray primer. Today, primers are tinted to match the top coat. A body shop might have some extra they could spray at the same time they are doing a body prep. Probably they would do it for very little expense-or free (if you showed up with one of those big Dunkin Doughnuts coffee cartons). Then you could finish it yourself.

For some local LJ info, I would suggest that you ask Stevareno.

Stevareno’s background is specifically in painting and finishes with many years of experience. I would hire him myself based on the knowledge that he exhibits, I have no doubt his skill is likewise.

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://amcraftsman.com

Lew has another great idea and I have used the DTM paint that WoodChuck has mentioned. These are both viable options.

The benefit of Lew’s suggestion is that you will not have leftover material.

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://amcraftsman.com

Go down to AutoZone and get one of those shake up cans of primer/sealer and a can of black and go to town.
Wipe down the casing with some lacquer thinner before you start.

-- Tim -- http://tmuli.com

This is one of those situations when the engineer in me comes out….You have to ask what the use of the piece will be to judge how much effort should you put into it. My guess is that you’re significant other won’t let this beauty get out of the workshop. So use whatever you have on hand.

What’s the worst that can happen? Maybe it starts to peal in 3 years. Well, you can try something different then…if you’re still interested in preserving it.

Dr Unix you have a point. I think i’ll give it a shot with what i have just for the experimental value. Be easy enough to strip down and start over should it start peeling and flaking. I’m all about being more concerned with projects for other people than i am my own stuff…hehe

Thanks for the responses!

-- miles125, Alabama.."Architecture is frozen music""

I refinish a lot of metal found objects in my rustic crafts business.
Some of the objects that I am currently refinishing include:
milk cans, barrel hoops, patio furniture, etc.

For off-the-shelf metal finishing products, I use Rustoleum primers and finishes.

Check out the Rustoleum website for more info.

Be sure to correctly identify the type of metal you are refinishing, prep it properly and follow the instructions for the finish you will be applying.

-- Randy, Rustic Artisan (sixth generation) - "I am a seeker, not a follower."

I have used a clear coat of 500 degree made for auto engines….has not peeled off yet I use it on many things.
And have great results, although I do etch the metal with a etching souluion of vinegar and water to clear any contaminates from the metal.
Good luck and I like the shell also, I wouldnt have passed it up

-- Can't never could do anything, to try is to advance.

I have etched metal surfaces with vinegar before as Jimthecarver suggests. This also helps.

I think that there are several good suggestions. Hmmm – how to chose?

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://amcraftsman.com

Miles,
What type of metal is the shell? I have a set of 5” shells form a Navy Destoryer that looked like crap when I started, but the shells are actually brass and shines up really nice. It required a lot of sanding and polishing and there were several times I thought of painting them, but I think they look better shiny.

-- Brian, Lebanon PA, If you aren’t having fun doing it, find something else to do.

Good point Brian, I was thinking that Miles shell caseing looked like it was aluminum. A coat of spray laquer would preserve the shine after buffing.

If it is aluminum, you will need to prime it with zinc chromate…

Tom

-- Anybody can become a woodworker, but only a Craftsman can hide his mistakes.

I will add two points…

- I know a guy that painted a mountain bike with nitrocellulose lacquer tinted with Solar Lux. It worked out great!

- Classic car guys are pissed that we woodworkers can still use nitrocellulose lacquer, and they can’t!

-- - Please help keep Lumberjocks an enjoyable escape by refusing to participate in political discussions. Simply spit out the bait and ignore the thread...

Okay Okay,
I had a tech prep diploma in auto body and also got 4 place in the state of Alabama for automotive body repair vocational schools. I have worked in numerous body shops and have probably sprayed 20 or 30 cars. So with that said in my experience Paint is paint it will do what you want it to do. Now if you were going to drive this down the road everyday I would suggest going with PPG 2 stage paint preferable with a good blocking and wet sanding then sealing, after that at least two to three base coats followed up with at least three coats of clear. after it is done and has dried for 24hrs come back with 3000 grit sand paper and finish with some 3m rubbing and polishing compound. BUT since it doesn’t have wheels and a motor I would buy a can of rustoleum grey primer because it looks galvanized and then paint it with what you have if you are planning on having it out side stick with rustoleum paint. If you want to go to the local auto body paint store they can mix you up any color of single stage lacquer you will also need a hardener and a reducer but the main key is a primer. Primer is what will make it stick to the galvanized metal.

-- Wood,clay,metal, and stone are all just materials, until an artist's hand touches them.--TreeFormDesign

everyone has given you great suggestions. DTM is a good product to use. Better sprayed if you go that way. For future primer advise, I always use GRIPPER. Made by Glidden. Home Depot carries it also. Good luck

-- urningit