How to convert your Performax drum sanders 2 ½ inch dust port to a 4 inch for less then 5 bucks
I have the older model 16 – 32 Performax drum sander like this one
and at times it is a pain in the you know what with the belt always needing consent adjustment and keeping the machines drum head level. I really love the machine and what can be done with it.
But it kicks up a lot of fine dust, my dust collector system works pretty well but as we all know it is next to impossible to get all the dust but the more of the fine dust we can collect the better it is for our lungs.
This is an example of the fine dust left in my machine that was left inside the drum and fell out as I was doing this tutorial/blog
So my collector system is missing picking up a lot of the fines and most likely yours is also.
Mine has the 2 ½ inch dust port and I have been wanting to change it to a 4 inch for as long as I have had it which has only been about 5 months. I do not know what a new dust hood cost because I never looked it up, I just figured that what ever I come up with will be a lot cheaper, and I’m cheap.
Stay with me I’m getting around to the build, since this is only my second blog I am learning how to do these but I’m pretty slow and have trouble rambling a lot.
Ok on with the build, but first let me say I am not into pretty so much as I am into the shop things I build working, so if you are into pretty this may not be for you. Also this is on the Performax 16 – 32, yours may be a different Performax model are a different brand all together but I think it would work on just about all brands or models.
As I said I have this model that has the 2 ½ inch dust port.
The first thing we need to do is do away with the 2 ½ inch port. To do that I used a saws all with a fine tooth metal blade.
To keep the lid from rattling around and to hold it in place I just used blue painters tape wrapped around the drum and lid in three or four places. I suggest that you do the same. The plastic the lid is made of is pretty stout and about 1/8 inches thick but the latch is kind of flimsy and moves the lid around when sawing.
After sawing it off it should look like this
I did this on the fly and some of my original ideas did not work out as planned so you may see some pencil marks that do not apply. So after trying different ways to get the 4 inch hole in the top this is the way I did it.
After cutting off the 2 ½ inch port, I placed blue tape over the hole and by pushing down I was able to find the out line of the hole, I then found center and marked it with a X then placed more blue tape over the whole top, then I used a square and marked center lines front to back like this.
And that got me to this point with reference lines to work with like this.
My original idea was to just drill out the 4 inch hole with a 4 inch hole saw but that did not work out because I could not control the large hole saw with out a stable work surface for the pilot bit or the speed of the drill.
So I used the 4 inch hole saw as a guide to mark the curve of the circle and placing the pilot bit in a hole I made in the center of the X of the blue tape. My hole saw has little slots in the side that I used to line up with the reference marks front to back, like this
And ended up with this
I then drilled two small starter holes to be able to use a jig saw. The photograph shows these starter holes at about the 1 and 4 o’clock positions and a center hole that was used to center the 4 inch hole saw. You can not see it in the photo but there is also marked lines on the side , these you will have to try the best you can marking the bottom of the hole saw as it sticks out from the side of the lid ( the hole saw is 4 inch and the lid side are only about 3 inches at this point as you are marking it out. Yeah I messed up at first on my marks, I guess that is way they say to measure twice and cut once. So I ended up with this.
Ok now comes the good part cutting out the 4 inch hole on the top and the ark cut on the sides. Don’t be afraid to do this step, heck you already cut the dust port off so you might as well go for it and cut it.
What I did was use a jig saw with a fine tooth blade and with it sticking out of the end about ¾ of an inch, even with the sanding drum inside you will have plenty of room to cut safely just take your time and check your marks and you will be ok.
What I did was cut out the top circle first and then cut the sides, when you are done it should look like this.
After you cut it all out you may need to use a file to fine tune your cut for the pipe to fit, getting the pipe to fit perfect is not important even trying to get it right on the money is not that important because it will be pretty hard to do, I know some of you will spend days if you have to, to get it as perfect as possible but all we are doing here is sucking saw dust through a piece of pipe.
The lid has sloped sides so it is not as wide as your pipe so it will not be perfect, that’s what the tape will correct later on.
I debated with my self if the ark cut in the side is necessary or if the cut could be strait across, and believe it needs to have the ark cut, number one reason is it allows more air flow and also allows more room to install the pop rivets at the end of the build.
As you see in this photo I needed to use a file to smooth out my cut lines and make the hole fit to my pipe.
Also the ark line is only about ¾ to 1 inch deep from the top.
After getting my pipe to fit into the hole and down as for as I wanted it, I cut tabs in the pipe, mine were 2 inches long. I placed the pipe in the hole and using the top of the lid as a marking point measured up 2 inches on each side drew a dotted line so I would know where to end my cuts. I did this on both the front and back ends, used a big pair of pliers (duck bill ) and bent them up to the dotted lines.
And you should have this.
After folding the front and back tabs and checking the pipe you should have this.
Now you will have the side tabs to work with, again I marked 2 inches made a dotted line and cut them into halves for a total of 6 tabs. You have to halve the side tabs because of the flat side on the lid for the tabs to lay flat.
When done you will have 6 tabs and it should look like this
Now place the pipe in the hole, your front and back tabs should lay flat on the top of the lid and the side tabs or covering the ark cut, you will still see some open space where the ark cuts are but you will tape over these in the end step. When you have everything bent like you want it, now is the time to snip off a little of each tabs corner by rounding them off, this will decrease any sharp edges.
When you have it looking like you want it, it should look something like this.
Now your ready to rivet your tabs down, it helps to have a helper to hold the pipe in place when you install the lid top rivets. One thing I did was having my wife as a helper pushing down on the pipe was to take a screw driver and better form fit the tabs by pushing them into place to take out some of the wrinkles out. Now drill the proper size hole through the metal pipe and the lid insert the pop rivet and install it.
Do the top front and back first, once they are in place the side are done next, using your fingers and screw driver form the tabs to fit and rivet them in place.
When you are done it should look like this.
And the inside should look like this. Well not like mine because it slipped on me and I did not notice it until I had most of my rivets installed. I really does not make a difference it will still such more air then the 2 ½ inch and it is only out by about ¼ inch.
And it will be fixed with tape when done like this, the tape on the inside allows for better air flow.
Finished on the outside
And the final build
Mine is sticking up 5 inches above the lid, i’m not sure yet if I will cut it down or not, have to wait and see how it hooks up to the hose and duct collector.
There was no way I could figure out how to save the Performax label but like I said I’m not into pretty maybe with more care it could be.
I have not tried this yet, asI am redoing the dust collection pipes, may have them done by early next week so I will get back to you with the reselts, but it has to work better then the 2 1/2 incher.
Materials you need for this project:
1 piece of 6 to 8 inch 4 inch pipe. Box stores have it in 2 foot sections but it will be more then the 5 bucks mentioned for this build, you could also just use some roof flashing, roll it into a 4 inch tube and pop rivet it together then tape the seam.
Note: you could even use a 4 inch metal elbow or a tin can, or, what ever.
12 pop rivets I used 1/8th inch
Aluminum tape, or duck tape. I like the aluminum tape, it sticks better and comes off clean and quick if you need to replace it for what ever reason.
Saws all to cut off 2 ½ inch port. You also could use a jig saw.
Jig saw for cutting hole for 4 inch pipe.
Pop rivet gun.
Screw driver or like tool to push metal flat.
Why a camera? So you can post your work when you get your’s done on Lumber Jocks so everyone can see any improvements you may have come up with.
Hope someone can use this idea, just my way of paying back for all the ideas and help I have received from Lumber Jocks.
-- Do it right the first time