| Blog series by mdoan | updated 375 days ago | 12 parts | 3109 reads | 19 comments total |
Part 1: Sorting out the stock and materials
Project #3 will be a bookcase with sliding doors. The plans come from American Woodworker #130 Sept. ‘07. The case will be walnut veneer ply with walnut hardwood for the remainder. Some techniques I’ll exploring on this project are: New…1) Face frame construction2) Sliding doors in dadoes One more try…3) More Festool Domino loose tenon joinery4) Dovetail drawers5) Re-saw stock for drawer bottoms6) Edge-gluing and making flat table tops But first step is ...
Part 2: Evaluate grain and layout parts
It’s hard visuallizing which grain pattern will look good for which part of the project. I hope this is one of those things that will become easier with experience.
Part 3: Building the case
I marked layout lines for the dadoes. The plans suggested cutting the dadoes for the sides and middle sections BEFORE ripping the pieces apart… this made sense in theory but was a chore to do because I had to offset the router from the marked line using a straight edge. So I measured out 2” from the line and made the first cut, then moved the fence 1/4” inward to make the final dado cut. I think I’ll invest some thinking into making a dado jig and using a pattern bi...
Part 4: Milled stock square 4 sides
Here’s all the stock milled s4s, marked, and semi-stickered ready for ripping and cutting to length. I read somewhere to let milled wood rest couple days before working it. Stickered and weighted.
Part 5: Pieces for the top piece
Here are the pieces i milled up for the top. I tried to go light on the jointer/planar because i need the top to be as thick as possible. I think I ended up with all pieces being 7/8”.
Part 6: Glue up the top
The top pieces have been chosen and in the clamps for glue-up as we speak. The domino tenons helped keep everything aligned and flat for the clamping. I cleaned up the squeeze out and will let it set while i work on the face frame and doors.
Part 7: Face frame dry fit
I used domino loose tenon joinery to form the face frame. This is the dry fit to check that all is square with the middle and bottome rails in the proper position for the drawer opening. Looks good. I’ll add solid edge bands to the shelves. Once their square, I’ll go back and measure the two vertical face frame pieces for the drawer dividers. I’ll glue and clamp it up tomorrow when construct the doors.
Part 8: Sliding doors
Here are the two sliding door frames with dominos cut in and assembled for the dry fit. I’ve placed them in the case behind the face frame to make sure that they do actually fit in there. Tomorrow I’ll glue everthing up and then cut the tracks in the top and bottom case pieces for the door slide hardware. The clamps are there so the frames don’t decide to fall forward and scratch 2 nights worth of sanding.
Part 9: Grooves for the door slide hardware
I removed the top and middle panels to cut grooves for the door slide hardware. The grooves are 7mm wide by 9mm deep. I cut the grooves 7/16” from the edge with a 1” seperation. The pictures show details of the groove, hardware for the doors, and the track insert. The hardware is 2 upper and 2 lower, 35mm euro-hinge style, inserts. The upper hardware have an adjustable tab while the lower hardware have an adjustable tab+roller. All pieces are made of plastic so we’ll see ...
Part 10: Base with Horse hoof legs
It took me a weekend to make the leg stock. I mortised the legs and cut integral tenons for the rails. This was the first time I’ve made integral tenons (used the festool domino on the first project). The mortises were machined with a bench mortiser. Pretty straight forward to setup and operate. I cut the tenons on the tablesaw with a tenon jig. The next weekend I formed the horse hoof feet and cut the arch in the front rail. I used the Rigid bench top RO drum/belt sander to form the...
Part 11: 3 drawers ready to go
Three drawers made. Dovetails cut for the face and back using the porter cable dovetail jig. I hadn’t intended to dovetail the back but it was good practice. The face is 3/4” black walnut, sides are 1/2” quarter sawn red oak, and the drawer bottom is a the same 3/4” quartersawn red oak that I resawed on the bandsaw and then sanded to 1/4” on the drum sander. A new experience on this entry was Carter bearing guides for the bandsaw. Resawing was very accurat...
Part 12: Time to make a router table
Had to take a timeout to make this router table extension. It’s a torsion box design with router lift and fence.
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