Hi all.
This is my Scandinavian floor loom.It is a 4 harness 6 treadle countermarche loom based on the popular Scandinavian style of looms. I can expand it to 8 frames and 10 treadle if needed.
I was reading an article in popular mechanics about building a small loom and decided to build one for my wife .Then as usual Igot carried away and decided to super size it and build a big one.
It is make of solid American ash and finished with one coat of Danish oil the 3 coats of shellac.
All the beams and important parts are laminatd to prevent warping and so far it ,s very straight and solid .
It is 50 inches wide can weave cloth 46 inches wide and is about 5 foot deep and 60 inches high.
It also has a flying shuttle beater bar so the shuttle will fly across the warp with the pull of a cord.
I guestimated the dimensions from different loom websites and catalogues so it has to be set up a few times to get the best results.
I machined all the rough stock with my Felder ,it took me 5 months to make. But i am pretty slow with the busted knees and I nearly cut off the top of my finger on this one.I was lucky as it was mostly nail and grew back but it scared the &^%$£$£! out of me .There was a lot of study involved to understand how looms work .Now I have to buy a reed and some heddles and get the wife to work!
Hope you like it
mark

Hi I finally finnished these speakers. They are now in use in our play room .They are Lowther PM6A drivers and one speaker does the high mids and abass as they are corner loaded horn speakers they have serious bass and sound amazing.

Hi everyone.
Last Friday I went to help my mother move some junk.I had to cut up some wood and found these old saws in her shed they belonged to my brother when he was an apprentice carpenter in 1978.
I used one to cut up the wood and it cut ok .I decided to see if I could revive it.I asked my mom and she said I should take to other 2 as well.
2 are Disstons and the old one with the brass screws just says “Warrented superior”
I bladed off the rust sanded them with 240 and 400 grit paper and WD40 and waxed them ,I sanded stained and shellaced the handles and re-filed the teeth.
I polished the screws on my minilathe and re-tapped one of the brass screws and nuts.
Ome of the handles was rotten so I cut off the bad part and replace it with bondo and rhen stained it you can seen the difference in colour but otherwise it,s a good repair.it,s the top part of the one furthest away.
I tried them out and the 2 big ones are really long and take a bit of getting used to they all cut dead straight and real smooth, but I can feel the kerf dragging against the blade so I think they need a little more set..
The small one cuts great the other two need to be reset .I will try to get a saw set from ebay as soon as I get some cash .I like having them around the shed as they make me feel like and old style craftsman with old style tools.
I got a lot of information from http://www.vintagesaws.com/
Mark

Hi here are some more pictures and the last show them as they are now in my bedroom .
Thanks
Mark

Hi again, this my current project ,this my next speaker,They are in my bedroom being tested.
In the world of horn speakers bigger is better I wanted to build a pair 8 feet tall but was reminded that I can,t really walk never mind carry these monsters into our tiny house!
When I play a piano CD it sounds like a real piano, really real!
These are Lowther’s English speakers there is a magnet on these babies half the size of a bowling ball and the cabinet design is Kietel Patlow’s “All Fun Horn”.
I got the plans from Jon Van Halen of Lowther America.
They slightly smaller than the last ones dimensions are 1100mm tall by 500 deep and 300mm wide at the front the back bottom corner is cut off for the horn mouth opening. I built the cabinet from 18mm ply and will cover this with 8mm solid ash then stain and finish .This project shows the inner workings of the back loaded horn design.
I just got the wood last week and hope to start preparing the 1” ash .I plan to get it planed to about 24mm x300mm x 1100mm boards and then rip it on my Felder, the rip blade kerf is 4mm so I should be left with 2×10mm thick boards with 2mm for cleanup i will cover the speaker in 8mm boards.
I thought about ripping veneer on my band saw but it won,t cut more than 130mm and thats at a pretty slow feed with a Starett 4tpi blade.I don,t have the spare cash to get a better ripping blade for the bandsaw yet, I spent it all on the wood.
I have to decide how to make them stand upright as the back corner is chopped.Some people just keep the back going down I may try something different or not!
I may be a while as I am pretty slow these days. I don,t mind as I may less mistakes I couldn’t rush if I wanted to but I will post a part 2 now with more pictures and part 3 when it’s done
Thefirst pictures shows the inside and shows how the sound travels as the horn gets bigger
and it gets louder.
The other 2 on shows one speaker on the slider.
Mark

Hi this is another project of mine.
I love listening to music I have 3000 records and a Micri Seiki .
These are back loaded horn speakers they are a special design using a folded horn (tunnel) inside the speaker box to amplify the sound. This type of speaker only uses one driver and it covers the full sound range much like a car stereo speaker. Some people add sub-woofer to these (I do ) for extra oomph!
This is a Fostex F206e 8” Japanese speaker and i used the speaker plans from Fostex. They have loads and loads of speakers so you can build any size you like.
I made these from 18mm ply and then cased it in 12mm ply and veneered the front with Birds eye maple and used the mahogany veneer from the ply I bought 2 door saddle at the diy store and used them for the front and top corners as they were the same cheap mahogany/luan as the ply.
I gave it 2 coats of shellac and 5 coats of System3 WLPU boat varnish waited a month and buffed it and waxed it.
I tested them before finishing them and they sounded terrific,spooky good. My friend is a guitar player and came over to hear them and he went home and said he could get off his mind so he bought them off me. I am now building another set.

Hi this is my work bench ,I got the plans from Scott Landis’ Workbench Book and modified it to suit me needs.
I bought the lumbar 2” beech and this was my first ever project with my Felder combo I used every feature on the combo except the shaper but I used the high speed router spindle in the shaper to make the finger joints.
I finished it in Danish oil so I can touch it up,It has taken a beating since then but I resurfaced last month and it looks great again.The cross bars are ash as I ran out of beech some day I may change them to beech but I quite like the ash grain.
I has a 3” top with 4” edges and a old style vice and tail vice it cost €400 for the lumber and €100 for the vise screws from Axminster in the UK .
A Sjoberg bench with 2” top is 900 in Dublin and I wanted to make myself as a kind of graduation test for a woodworker.
I bolted the endcaps on with counter sunk carriage bolts the top is bolted to the base .The base is 4×4 legs and cross bar feet with holes to be screwed to the floor.
It,s 3 years old now and should out last me.
I still love it and feel pride when using it.