|Workshop by mbs||posted 09-10-2011 07:31 PM||7464 reads||27 times favorited||42 comments|
Most recent video tour on 8/25/13.
Update my workshop with some felder equipment in 9/12
There are a few things I’ve done that I really like and I would do over again. And a few things I would do differently. I guess this is the forum to share the good, the bad, and the ugly. Most of the ideas listed below were developed while I was working in a 2 car garage. I was fortunate enough to build a larger garage and incorporate many of the ideas. Setting up a shop is more of a continuous journey and not a discrete event. I’ll never be done. There is always something else I need (want) and something I need to sell.
The pics can be seen at “my workshop”
The good -
Position the saws, planer, jointer, shaper so the outfeed is in front of the garage door and you won’t lose valuable working space.. I realize this only works when the weather is nice and you have a large garage door to point them at.
Make a covered patio and supply electricity to it. It’s nice to work outside in the shade and it’s healthier too. Clean-up is easy with a leaf blower.
Put skylights in the shop to let in natural light. Supplement with a lot of T8 florescent lights
Make dedicated cabinets to hold items. e.g. plane cabinet, sanding cabinet, drill cabinet. ...
Learn how to make customized dust collection fittings. it will save you a bunch of money.
Mount your dust collector and compressor outside (if possible). They take up floor space and are noisy.
Put dust collection floor sweeps in the corners and blow the dust from one end of the shop to the other.
Plumb in a lot of electrical outlets (inside and outside) and install airlines to get to the major areas.
If you have both a radial arm saw and the miter saw build them on the same platform to reduce space.
Put equipment on good castors to move it easily.
The bad (what I regret):
I wish I would have put the dust collection piping and some electrical outlets in the floor. It would look nicer and be safer to work around.
Don’t install too many windows because they take up valuable wall space.
I would consider having a wood floor because it would be more comfortable than standing on concrete. I don’t have any experience with wood floors and I’m not sure they would withstand the weight of some of my tools.
I wish I would have purchased a 3 phase rotary converter and purchased 3 phase equipment. I believe three phase is less expensive and better than single phase. Higher end equipment is made with three phase power and it can be cheaper than single phase.
I made an office that I really don’t use. I would rather have the shop floor space.
Before I acquired some of the bigger tools there was enough room to park a car in the shop. Now I regret allowing a car there because my wife thinks it’s her parking space.
Don’t use the rubber flooring that I used. It shows all tracks and never looks good. I would use epoxy with sand next time.
I hope this helps.
Made some dust collection fittings. Dust collection on jds Multi router before video
Installing the Clearview 1800 in my new shop.
I have a 20’ x 30’ 2×4 framed shop that has insulated & finished walls and ceiling.
The DC is mounted in the corner of the shop to a wall with foam isolation pads to help dampen the noise from the motor transmitting to the wall. I’m using 7” spiral trunk with 6” drops.
Standing 6’ away the noise from an Iphone app was 93db without a trashcan or any ducting.
A 10’-3” high closet was built around the unit. The walls consist of staggered 2×4’s with Roxul safe and sound between the studs. The inside of the room was finished with 1/2” sound board and 1/2” drywall. The outside of the room was finished with 1/2” soundboard and 3/4” grade A birch plywood.
The door is 37” wide and 10’-3’ tall. It’s made the same as the walls except to make it lighter I didn’t put the drywall on the inside. But, some left over Styrofoam was applied (I didn’t notice any difference in sound when I applied the styrafoam).
The sealing surface of the door has 3/16” thick x 1.25” wide rubber insulation.
The ceiling was built with 2×4’s with roxul and soundboard. The motor is cooled from filtered air exiting the ceiling. I put some styrofoam near the motor but not completely surrounding it to try to reduce the sound. I don’t think it had much affect.
Approx 8’ of 8” diameter R8 ducting vents filtered air to the shop and acts as a muffler. The 8” diam outlet isn’t big enough for the air to escape so the room is pressurized. to help reduce the pressure, another 4” diameter outlet was added near the floor. I can still feel quite a bit of air escape in the .25” gap under the door.
The sound measures 73 to 74 db without any blast gates installed.
With the blast gates installed and the bottom of the door sealed the system produces 64 db (with one blast gate open). I’m happy, happy, happy. I can actually hear the stereo playing with the duct collector on. It made a big difference once the piping was completed.
Some pics are below.
As a side note, I installed another CV at my other shop and used 6” S&D pvc. The PCV is WAY easier to work with and is a much cleaner install (IMHO). I’ll never use metal again. I estimate that it has taken me 10x longer to cut/fit/seal the metal.
The wall (note: the white strip is a rubber gasket to seal the door when it’s closes)
-- Sorry the reply is so long. I didn't have time to write a short reply.