Can you believe I ran out of wood???? (Wood un-gloat!!!)

Hey Matt, this is a great looking piece. I wona try something like this someday.

-- Mike, Bruce Mississippi = Jack of many trades master of none

Lookin’ good, Matt!

-- Scott - Katy, Texas

Matt, I agree this is looking pretty good and, I were at this stage in a project and ran out of wood for the drawers I would be counting the days to payday. Interruptions like this when you are basically in the home stretch of a build are just plain irritating.

Do you need danish oil on the inside? It really is a matter of personal preference in my opinion. The inside should be sealed and if you just wanted to apply shellac that would work. The important thing is to seal all surfaces of the cabinet. But the danish largely affects the appearance of the wood by giving it a slightly darker tone. However, in the case of walnut it is fairly dark already so I am not sure that it will appreciably the final color of the wood. As always when finishing a project I always recommend making up a test piece that has been sanded to the same grit as the projet piece and which shows the contributions of each individual finishing step.

I have not used danish oil on walnut but have used it on oak, maple, and cherry and topcoated it with both shellac and polyurethane. But I have gotten away from using danish oil and tend to favor boiled linseed oil instead. I am not sure what brand you are using but they are fairly similar. Watco Danish oil, for instance, is largely mineral spirits and other similar solvents with linseed oil and vegetable oil thrown in as the penetrating oils. General Finishes danish oil is boiled linseed oil diluted with mineral spirits. Others add tung oil in addition to boiled linseed oil. Danish oil will provide little surface protection and will serve to darken or “tone” the wood.

You can apply a topcoat of shellac over the danish oil once it cures without any problem.

-- With God's help all things are possible- even woodworking. Woodworking is not just a hobby, it is an (expletive deleted) expensive hobby.

Wow Matt! Looks great. You are skilled indeed. I love the feet and the top.

Really very nice piece,
you’re saying you run out of lumber? ok, haul it over to my shop and I’ll strive to find the lumber for that…!

-- masrol, kuala lumpur, MY.

I don’t have any poplar… is that a really good wood for drawers… I use Hoop Pine… aracaria cunninghamii…
Makes a nice contrast for the dovetails in the drawer fronts.
i like the way you did the top could you post a close up of the top… is that finger jointed to the sides with a border..??? can’t quite tell.. Nice feet BTW.

-- Drink once, cut twice. New website up.... lazylarrywoodworks.com.au

Matt,

I’m a bit closer than Kuala Lumpur. Haul that thing up here and I’ll spot you the poplar till payday. Heck, I’d even let you use my shop to finish it off.

Nice job. Can’t wait to see it after next payday.

-- Chuck Bender, period furniture maker, www.acanthus.com

Thanks everyone!!
Larry, poplar is the 1st choice in drawer innards due to it’s inexpense, and strength. The top is dovetailed into the side boards, then wrapped in a decorative frame!

Chuck, I wish we lived closer, I love building these things!! It’s so much fun!!

I can’t believe no one jabbed me in the ribs!!

-- Matt, Houston Texas

What do you think I want you tome come to PA for? It isn’t so I can give away poplar…I haven’t had anyone in the shop lately to jab in the ribs!

-- Chuck Bender, period furniture maker, www.acanthus.com

I can”t wait to see the finished product , Matt ! Is that the w i d e Walnut that you got from Rockler ?

-- You know you're getting old when you know the difference between you're (you are) and your (belonging to you) AND how to use them in a sentence .

Dusty,
Yeah, that is the board! I only had about 1” left after rough cutting, then jointing, and tablesawing to get it to 15.1/2”

Chuck,
I guess Glen left, and now it’s my turn?? At least you didn’t say “You know, you could use that Period Purpleheart on those drawer innards!!” I better keep quiet about the Leigh Dovetail jig….........oops!!

-- Matt, Houston Texas

Hey Matt
Coming along great bummer about the secondary wood. I’m not a fan of danish oil or blo but I would put a coat of clear coat inside .Very nice offer Chuck.

-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop Southern Oregon

I’ve always understood that you should finish all sides of the wood, for the reason that if you don’t, seasonal changes may have more of an effect on the unfinished part and cause uneven stress in the wood. Beyond that, I’m just so anal that if I took out a drawer it would annoy me to no end that the finish stops where it does in your pictures :)

Looks great though, can’t wait to see the finished project.

Matt,

It’s a little cold but the hammock is still up.

-- Chuck Bender, period furniture maker, www.acanthus.com

very nice matt, cant wait to see the drawers done

-- David - Houston, Texas.