As I wrote in the first part – I have been looking forward to make this blog, so here we go.
My conclusion was:
Low price light weight wood: pine.
Thin planed boards for low weight.
Size that I can easy carry.
Proportions slim for elegancy.
A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge – this I know is not traditional at all.
And for the dimensions 72cm long x 25cm wide x 20cm high, I think this gave some elegant proportions, but do as you want or as your wood commands you.
The boards are planed down to 0,8cm / 0,3inches thick this gives a light box to carry (it is more than enough).
Just found this drawing I made in one of my sketchbooks.
For the marking:
The bottom is the full width and length of the box (the box stands on it).
The sides full length.
The lid fits in between the sides so it is the width minus the two side’s thickness.
The rest is clear to see on the drawing.
As usual a recycle project, this time an old down hung celling, boards left in the street and picked up for later use – now.
First I cut them to width on both sides.
This is what I came up with…
Then I needed to add more electricity to be able to use the planer / thicknesser app same model as this.
Yes a wood nerd needs to do electricity too…
Wood is waiting MaFe…
And just a little time to make a planer knife setup tool also.
And this is what it ended up with.
Look at all those shaves for so little wood, a shame we can’t make our own MDF…
But at least now some fine boards for free.
Now time to see what we got and plan out the layout and size of the box after the wood.
I carefully mark the boards for sides, lid and so.
Now back to the work of the hand.
I plan the boards for the glue up.
To make sure the whole length is good you can mark with a pen.
Then plan and see when it’s all gone.
And the pen marks you will find in the shaves.
Lots of shaves – I love it!
Glue the sides and clamp up, here with Japanese clamps.
Boards for one side.
Small wood spacers to avoid marks from the clamps, and pressure.
Once dry it’s time for marking up the final sizes.
And cut to length.
I try first with a Japanese saw since I want to do as much as possible by hand but my health as usual makes me need to use power tools for a large part. (Spinal neck operation that was no success).
Before I saw I score the cut with a marking knife to avoid tear out.
It might be a box success…
(Ok you are not funny MaFe).
Ends – sides – bottom – top ends and battens for the lid.
The oversized lid is put on top, and then I mark up the top end and app. an inch extra on each side, so that the batten is one inch from the top side part.
Other end an inch extra too, but here the batten is flush to the top part.
Now cut of one end.
And other end, this will make it possible to open and lock the box.
This is where we are now.
With some nails we could have a finished toolbox in a few moments.
I will split the blog here and continue soon.
Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.
I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.
-- Mad F, the fanatical rhykenologist and vintage architect. Democraticwoodworking.