Sharpening: Looking close with a USB microscope. #3: Water cooled grind stone (tormek), and Touch-Up of the edge

Looking close at sharpening with USB microscope
Water cooled grind stone (Tormek), and Touch-Up of the edge

So here we go again; I have a water cooled grinder and must admit I was happy with this method until I tried the Japanese water stones, the water cooled grind stone system produce a really sharp edge that are sufficient and nothing less for wood working, but compared to the Japanese water stones I feel there are quite a way to go, and so it is time to look closer at the edges.

Also I will end this blog by showing the result of touch-up on newspaper and on a strop with VERITAS green compound.

First the back is flattened by using the side of the grind stone this gives a fairly flat back but leaves quite a rough surface.

Then the back gets a tour on the leather wheel and I try to polish it up as much as possible.

This is how it looks, not what we will accept after water stones, but though the grind marks flat and shiny.

This is the result in the microscope, quite fair I think.

Then it’s time to set up the grinder for the right angle.

Before grinding I use the wheel dresser to set it rough to begin with.
(Using the rough side of the dressing stone).
This makes it faster to make the first grinding.

And grind away until I have the right angle and meet the back flat.!

This is how it looks after the rough grind.

Then I use the wheel dresser to set it to fine.
(Using the fine side of the dressing stone).
This makes finer surface and so a sharper edge.

And a spin until it is smooth.

This is how it looks after the fine grind.
I’m not really impressed with the difference.

And finally the leather wheel to polish up a fine surface and a sharp edge.
(You need to make a turn to remove the burr).

In the microscope after the leather wheel.
I’m not deeply impressed… But it does produce a really fine edge for wood working.

NOW IT GETS INTERESTING!
I will try to improve the edge after the water grinder system by using green compound on a strap and newspaper flat on a glass plate.

Here after the VERITAS green compound.
This clearly improves the result, so that is a way to go.

And then I continue to newspaper so it is touched up by both.
I think it actually gives a little extra on the polish, so the only question is if it rounds the edge a wee bit, and if it is worth the effort, but perhaps for some really fine paring tasks I could say it was worth it.

Finally I make the test where I sharpen with the water grinder system and make the final touch-up on an 8000 grid water stone.
This gives clearly a superb result, and I start to wonder if all my other water stones are actually waste of money!
Perhaps the most effective way to sharpen to razor sharp in the work shop is by starting with the water grinder, then leather wheel and finish up the micro bevel on an 8000 stone, it sure makes me re-think my previous conclusions.

A QUICK TOUCH-UP.

Here the edge of a chisel after some light use in pine.

Ten passes on a newspaper and it looks like this.

And like this after few strokes on green compound.

I am not sure what to conclude, the newspaper seems to be a little finer, but will probably also hone less, where the green seem to be more rough and so will also sharpen a little more…

Personally I think I will stay on the green for touch-up by the bench, and then use the newspaper when in the field where I have no strop.

The blog will go on, I plan on oil stones and sandpaper also.

My blogs on sharpening:
http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/series/4076
Sharpening station blogs:
http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/series/3071

Hope this blog can make some more curious, and stop some of the guessing around,

Best thoughts,
Mads

-- Mad F, the fanatical rhykenologist and vintage architect. Democraticwoodworking.