Drawknives restore and MaFe’s sheath types.
we are back in Gepetto’s tool cabinet.
This is part two of the drawknives restore and MaFe’s sheath type’s blog.
In this part the handles will be mounted and we will make a sheath.
This blog is dedicated to Andy (Brit) since I know he have a few on his way these days.
This was where we left last blog, knife blades and handles.
Break up the old, be careful not to bang your chisel into the metal!
This old handle was actually made from horn this I have never seen before, but these drawknives are French so perhaps different traditions.
If needed straighten the tang of the drawknife.
I also get rid of some rust here, but not too much since it will help with some friction.
So drill holes in handles.
And since the tangs are tapered I use a step drill to make a tapered hole inside.
Now a big bang!
But we need a little more do I lay a nut on top so I can get the tang out.
Then add a washer.
And with a hammer shape the head over the washer, this is easier than you think if you never tried this.
Not too bad – or?
For another one I choose to drill through coins for washers, just to give it a little personality.
And here the tang is way too long for the handle size I want on this one.
Cut of what is too much.
Sodabowski you can see it is quite a while ago I did this…
And shape that also.
Here one where I could use the old stops and the tangs were undamaged.
I choose to give this straight handled knife some really comfy handles.
To me sure I do not break the tang I heat it before I bend it.
And this is how it looked originally also.
To sharpen you can use a stone as in the good old days.
Here you can see Kari Hultmans way of sharpen:
Some of mine needed a fresh edge.
The blades get some WD40 for protection.
Then all is waxed up.
New handles and time to smoke an old corn pipe.
This brings me to what drawknives we need?
It depends on what you want to do!
But if you want only one buy a flat with an 8-12 inch cutting edge, with this one you can do most of what you need.
A good article by Mike Dunbar here.
Here a good video on the subject with Brian Boggs;
Press on the Lie-Nielsen toolworks – Choose Brian Boggs Drawknives…
Time to make a sheath or cap or whatever it’s called…
Find a piece of wood (here one of the arms from a trashed parasol – again guys…).
Make some cuts so you get the thickness of the blade.
And the wood needs to be a little longer then the cutting edge.
A curved handle can be solved like this, unless you want to make laminated wood…
I then put a dowel or pin in each end so the blade can’t slip out.
As you can see I have also drilled a hole in the center.
And finally I give it some linseed oil.
Put a string through the hole make a knot, and then you can fix it easy and will not lose the string.
I also make a string for hanging them on my workshop wall.
Look some of these knifes are from the French car maker Peugeot they used to be excellent tool makes also.
And one made of leather, these are of course the best for curved blades but take time to make.
Here the first cap or sheath I made.
It has a leather strap to hold it in place.
For hollow out you might want an inshave, chair makers use these.
This is also an old French one.
That’s it for now!
Naa we might need this picture:
Me enjoying my time with a drawknife on the one wild shaving horse blog.
Hope again to be able to share some energy, to perhaps even inspire others to bring some old tools back to life,
Best of thoughts,
-- Mad F, the fanatical rhykenologist and vintage architect. Democraticwoodworking.