Hand plane DIY convex.
Or Mike meets Mads style…
Our dear Mike (Stefang), started a ‘master class here on LJ, a blog on how to make a traditional Nordic bucket, and part of this class was ‘making a convex hand plane’, so this was why I did it. Thank you Mike!
Also it was a dream for me, a dream to make my own hand plane, not that I needed one, but to prove to myself I could, and in the future be able to make special purpose planes when needed.
Since I’m a bad boy, I did not follow the class completely, I had to try and do things my way.
So this is why I decided to make this blog, to document the process, and to be able to share with others if it ends up as a success.
So this is where we will end:
A hand plane, ‘block plane’ size, made for a rounding of 22 cm (app. 4 inch).
As you can see Krenov style, and a touch of Japan, at least this was my wish…
A piece of wood, here Oak.
Choose a size that will be 1 – 2 cm wider than the plane iron you are going to use.
I choose a block plane iron only because I had some so it would be for free.
Cut up in desired length, I choose to make it short, block plane length, due to the fact I would probably not use it a lot later, and then it will be easy to store.
mark up the width of the plane iron, and a little extra for adjustment (app 1 mm extra).
I marked with a marking gauge, and went quite deep so the saw would have a spur to run in.
Cut the sides of.
It can be done also with a handsaw (I’m lazy, and have a health issue).
Note I marked also the wood with a triangle, so it’s possible to place it in the right spot after.
Enough about wood!!!
Time to lap the back of the plane iron.
I use grid 100-1200, mounted on glass plates so it will be dead flat.
To mark the new radius on the plane iron, I made a line on a piece of wood, the set my divider for 11 cm (4 inch app.), put the new front of the iron almost to the point, and centered the blade, then it was just to draw the radius on the iron with a marker in the divider.
The new radius is grinded.
I grind it flat first – remember to dip in water all the time, to avoid it to overheat (become dull).
I like to do it this way, to make a fresh edge.
Here we go.
(I also see a little heating in the corner…).
Back to wood!
Now time to mark the angels, 45 degree for the plane iron.
- and 60 – 65 for the opening.
The shave opening will easier let go of the shaves if curved, also the shaves will have more room in front of the cross pin, so they will not get stocked.
You can use a flexible ruler for this.
The lines are set.
Another tour on the band saw.
(Yes I should have changed the blade for the curve, but I was lazy again, and the angel is more 44 than 45, so it’s a semi low angel version…).
Now we are talking!
Now time for the curve of the mouth, since the sole will get curved also later, and if the mouth doesn’t get a curve, it will be wider in the sides when the sole are rounded.
So draw a 22 cm (8 inch) circle, this circle needs to be gently offset from the mouth, so you get some height for rounding and adjustment (I offset app 6 mm).
(Logic? If not, just do it).
I made some PDF’s to explain:
The idea, and facts (yes I’m old fashion, I draw and calculate).
Press here for pdf of calculation.
My conclusion and sketch.
Press here for pdf of conclusion.
This is how it looks when cut.
My original plan was to round before making the opening, but I lost it, and this is equally good (I suppose).
And here you see why we need the rounding, and all my calculations…
And from the side… Wauuuu, I’m really excited at this time. My first ever hand plane, and it seems that my thinking are not all wrong.
Time to start to put the plane together.
Mark up for dowel holes, and find some wood for the dowels. (I had some dark wood mahogany).
Drilling the holes.
(You should not freehand as I do, use clamps or tape).
Before drilling second hole, mount a temporary dowel to hold it in place.
First glue up.
Clamp in place, hammer in the dowels, and drink coffee.
Cut the dowels of.
Here the sole.
Now you should adjust the opening.
The top of the plane iron must touch the front of the mouth, this will make a zero shave opening after gluing, and make it possible to adjust the mouth for the desired opening later.
Also it leaves a little room for mistakes when rounding.
Mark it up.
Glue and clamp the front piece.
Time to make the cross pin.
I use some hard wood the Krenov style.
Cut in square a piece that is a little longer than the width of the plane.
The ‘diameter’ is a matter of wish, I made mine 1,2×1,2 cm app.
Here you see it.
I found a suitable size of plug cutter 9 mm app.
Giving the pin a ‘cheek’.
And then find the wit.
Repeat and it should look like this.
Now mount the pin in a vice, and find the center.
Drill, and this should be the result.
(Mine a light offset… We can’t win them all.).
Leave one side flat, and round the upper side, this will make an easier pass for the shavings, and make a firm grab on the flat surface.
I choose to polish (not on the flat side, we want good grip).
And mirror polish.
This just for the contrast to the rest of the plane.
Mark up for the pin.
I set it app. in the middle of the hight to ensure a good grip and no ‘dancing’ in the blade. If you use a round pin, I recomend you place it a little lover.
Set the plane iron hold the pin, and make an app 3 mm gap between for the wedge.
Drill for the cross pin.
Drill through the hole made, so you hit the same spot on the other side.
The M and M, are for Mike and Mads…
I said clamp!
Here you see the sole.
Since the download for some is a problem, I will break the block in two.
Press here for part two.
Hope this can be useful, perhaps even someone will try and build a plane after seeing this. I promise you, it’s not too difficult, but most of all its really rewarding and fun.
-- Mad F, the fanatical rhykenologist and vintage architect. Democraticwoodworking.