Made to fit the bench, a table or the Festool MFT
The other day I was annoyed that I had to plane some end grain, and had no shooting board.
I wanted a little board that I can bring with me when needed, with a 45 degree function also, and that will work with a little low angel 60,5 blockplane, and a normal no.3 or 4 handplane.
So, what is a shooting board?
A base in two layers, that have the purpose of letting the plane run forward and backwards, and be ‘shot’ up to a pice of wood held by a ‘fence’.
This will provide a perfect angel, both horisontal and vertical, and prevent tearout on the backside of the wood as you pass with the plane.
If you ad a 45 degree fence, you can make perfect fit miter joints this way (used in picture framing and so).
I choose plywood for the top, and a smooth board (used for concrete work) for the buttom to decrese friction, and the ‘fence’ are solid wood.
The top has to be wider than the buttom, since this is where the plane will ‘shoot’ once its done – I made mine a little wider than the hight of the side of a no.4 handplane.
The two sheets are glued together (it will be interesting to see if normal glue holds…).
Clamped down to a flat surface to ensure a completely flat base.
When the glue are dry, make some shooting, to make the side straight, and to be able to place the fence straight to the edge after.
Now it’s time to cut the ‘fence’ into lenght, and make sure it’s absolutly square at the two sides, and end.
Remember to check both horizontally and vertically.
Then fasten the ‘fence’ with clamps to the board, and turn it upside down, no glue.
Predrill, and countersink for a screw in the end closest to the ‘shooting’ side.
Screw it in tight.
Now is the critical moment, since you have to get the angel absolutly right, so measure on all sides, and check all angels, you can push the ‘fence’ with a mallet even the clamps are tight, and in this way fine adjust.
Turn the board arround and fasten the fence with some more screws.
Now you can make your first shootings, and test if you have been accurate enough.
Congratulations on this part! (if you feel lazy, stop now…).
I wanted mine to be able to make 45 degree shooting also, and desided not to make a turning fence due to stability, and accuracy.
So I cut a 45 degree plywood triangle. (here you need to be extremely precice again – sorry).
For this job the Festool table are a dream once it’s set up correct.
Here are the parts for the 45 degree jig.
Plywood triangle, and a wood ‘fence’.
The fence need to be cut 45 degree in one end (yes, be precise).
Make sure now, that the triangle are giving a perfect 45 degree to the shooting area.
Fasten the 45 degree ‘fence’ to the triangle (I gave it a little plastic wood to have a completely flat surface after).
The roundwood, are to make a benchhook that fits the Festool table.
If you have a normal workbench, you can just ad a ‘fence’ to the buttom of the front, to hold the shooting board in place when you shoot, this can also be fastened in the bench wise for a firm grib.
But for me som small round hooks, that fit into the holes of the bench, and then they can be used also as a normal ‘fence’ on a table or bench.
Pre drilled and ready in the holes, so I can fasten them from the underside of the table.
Now mounted, and I added some cutton tape, to ad stability, and for anti slip.
A little working on the 45 degree fence (my daughter took a photo)...
Some holes for clamping the fence to the shooting board, and for clamping to the fence.
Now it can be easily removed or added, when needed.
Here with a 60,5 blok plane on the shooting area, and wood in the jig, ready to shoot.
Here with a no.3 and a clamp on the wood.
Jubiiiiii…. Shooting 45 degrees to the endgrain with a no.3!
And now with a 60,5 block plane 90 degree to the wood.
Here a side photo, where you can see the idea!
Next shootingboard I make, will be for my old 62, but this is a different story.
Hope it can be to some inspiration,
Best of thoughts,
-- Mad F, the fanatical rhykenologist and vintage architect. Democraticwoodworking.