The first Boulle style box
Engraved Boulle marquetry box lid
I am always looking for something small and complicated to make. I have made a few items over the last 5 years that have featured marquetry panels of one sort or another. See my Woman in Gold http://lumberjocks.com/projects/262434 Klimt on a box http://lumberjocks.com/projects/221162 and the interior of the doors on my Curiosity Cabinet http://lumberjocks.com/projects/239618 You can see from these examples that complexity is something that I get totally engrossed in – it keeps me stimulated and busy.
However having recently started using different materials as well as wood veneer in my marquetry so I decided it was time I embarked on something Boulle. I had thought it a bridge too far when I first came across it, but I decided to have ago. The basic concept is that you cut a sandwich materials – stack cutting, so you potentially end up with as many different colour combinations of the pattern as you have layers in your stack. So I decided to make some Boulle style boxes for each of my three great nieces. Well three for them, and a few spares I hoped…………
My main inspiration and starting point was Pierre Raymond’s books, Marquetry, and his three Masterpieces of Marquetry volumes. As I started to understand the full process certain critical details, were to my mind missing, or were dealt with rather too quickly. So I needed more information. While I like antique designs and particularly marquetry, and make quite a bit of ‘reproduction’ antique furniture, I am not at all concerned about sticking to traditional techniques. There are certainly a whole load of these traditional techniques in Boulle work – fish and hide glue, garlic, the use of soot and charcoal, and of course the use of the traditional French Marquetry horse, the Chevalet. While antique restorers and traditionalists will want to connect with, and use these traditional methods, I wasn’t at all concerned about finding different solutions.
What follows is my journey in making a set of Boulle style marquetry boxes, and the processes and techniques that I learnt, adapted and used. What worked for me, may not work for you, and you may want to stick with tried and tested traditional methods, but I felt it worth sharing my journey. It may save the reader an awful lot of time in research!
My starting point for the boxes, was to make myself a chevalet. I decided was the way to go rather than using a fret saw or scroll/jig saw that I had tried in the past The Chevalet Clubhouse on Lumberjocks – http://lumberjocks.com/topics/49202#reply-2388434 was invaluable for this, and I must say a really big thankyou to Paul Millar its founder. Always helpful and knowledgeable and with some inspirational work to back it up. Similarly blogs and post by both Patrick Edwards and Patrice lejueune are also well worth searching out.
While I used the basic chevalet concept I incorporated a few modern elements into my design, not to every ones taste I might add. So, linear and self-aligning bearings, a carbon fiber saw frame, and light weight blade clamps/holders. I designed an adjustable frame which could take the commonly available 130mm blades as well as the longer 160mm blades. In the end I used the more readily available 130mm blades as they were easier to source at reasonable prices off eBay. Finally my chevalet had to be bench mounted rather than the tradition free standing design, as my small workshop, well actually the corner of my garage, doesn’t have room for a free standing version.
My bench mounted Chevy
Its high-tech bearings and frame
The blade clamps
THE MARQUETRY DESIGN
While making the chevalet was progressing I started my research into what marquetry design to use. I decided to cover the whole box rather than just the lid – which would have been far easier and half the work!! I looked a lot at Islamic art and arabesque designs on the internet for inspiration, particularly FOTOSEARCH and Pinterest.
I have become quite adept at tracing images using the basic tools in the Microsoft Word package. This enables you to produce your own version of a design which can then be manipulated by, cutting and pasting, resizing, cropping, flipping and rotating, and varying line thickness. Boulle designs are usually symmetrical, so I only had to ‘trace’ a quadrant of the design, as copying, pasting, rotating, and flipping enabled me to make up the other 3 quarters of the design.
I worked out that you actually need two designs, one for the sawn outlines, and another for the engraving detail/shading lines. Better to have them as separate drawings than one – saves confusion. Though once the design is in Word, you can use different colours and or thicknesses of line for the sawn, and engraving cuts.
Deciding which pieces of the metal design to cut out as a whole piece, and which to cut into smaller pieces was done before I started sawing. In the end cutting the metals into smaller pieces wouldn’t have been a problem as when the metal is engraved and filled, any cut lines appear just the same as engraved lines. Its possibly quicker doing engraved lines than it is sawing on the chevalet, so leaving the metal as bigger pieces is the way to go.
The design sheet glued on the stack for the box tops.
The sides, back and front were based on elements of the tops design.
A top, side and front, showing the use of the same design elements.
In the next of the series I’ll talk about the Materials I used, Making up the packets and the Sawing.
Thanks for looking …....
-- Madburg WA