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Jointer

4K views 15 replies 5 participants last post by  mIps 
#1 ·
My first jointer

Well, my tried-and-true method failed me today. Usually, whenever I think I might go yard-sale or garage-sale looking, I am sure to take at least five to ten dollars with me to ward off anything that I might find interesting and, until today, it's worked. I carry money, I see nothing interesting that I want or need.
But, today, I was carrying $15 and found a old craftsman 6" jointer that the owner was willing to sell me for $50. So, now I am the owner.
It needs some attention and love but, for the price, I couldn't pass it up. my garage is getting alarmingly full.

Will post pics when I get the chance.
 
#4 ·
Bumper Wood Automotive exterior Gas Trunk


Here's a quick pic to prove it did happen. According to the plate, it is a Sears Craftsman model 113.206931 which I know is older and not really the greatest. But it came with a motor, not sure what power, and a mobile base for it that it's not currently on.
The deck needs to be scrubbed and waxed, the knife cylinder had some surface rust, the knives need to be sharpened and basically EVERYTHING needs to be cleaned and lubricated. But, it's more than I had before and I am happy about that.
Looking forward to using it.
 

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#5 ·
I just picked up one of these a couple weeks ago too. I've used it a few times with variable success. Shorter boards are pretty much dead on, but longer than about 3 feet and I get some bulge in the middle. The motor on mine is a 1/2 horse inductions that runs like a top and I found a place on line to get new knives that work great for $17. Drop me line if you want the knife info. Enjoy the tool and if you learn anyway to improve the accuracy with longer stock be sure to let me know.
 
#6 ·
When you say bulge, do you mean that the middle part of the board is thicker than the ends? If so, what are you using to keep firm pressure on the board as you joint it? Seems like the weight of the ends could be 'pulling' the center up and away from the knives.
Speaking of knives, yes, info please and thank you.
 
#7 ·
OK got it and a nice find to boot

its a great looking machine, and as long as you do not overdo the length of the timber, an overhang of about 1/3 of the length should be OK it will work well.

A jointer would have to be one of the few Items that once set up should not be moved or mobile, unless the floor surface is spot on, as by moving it around you risk the co planer surfaces becoming effected and refelected in the results.

Be prepared to spend quite some time (hours) setting up when you first replace the blades, again this time spent will refelect in the results.

Enough from me!

Enjoy your new find
 
#11 ·
okay, so, first real question. What is the possibility of moving the motor (this one or a different one) up closer to the body of the jointer so that I could put this thing on a shallower base / stand. I'm contemplating a wooden cabinet of some kind but don't know if it's reasonable / feasible / a good idea to do so.
 
#13 ·
De-rusting

Well, I finally had a chance to start tackling the jointer cleanup. luckily the in/out-feed tables were fairly clean and had only light rust. I took two passes with rust cleaner on both and then a light sand with WD-40 as "lubricant". They cleaned right up and look good.
The cutter head is a different story. It's more rusted and harder to clean. I did the best I could with a wire brush and a green scrub pad. I'll know later if I helped any in getting the old blades out.
Sadly, I learned that the infeed table has a slight dish to it and, without re-grinding or LOTS of sanding, it's as good as it's going to get. To be honest, I don;t even know if its worth re-grinding it. That would likely cost more than I paid and more than it's worth. Ah well.
Pics attached.
Musical instrument Bumper Electronic instrument Automotive exterior Musical instrument accessory

This is the beast without it's fence. Tables are level with each other. Good!

Rectangle Wood Floor Composite material Gas

The out-feed side. Some discoloration but flat and smoooooooth.

Wood Rectangle Gas Metal Composite material

Cutter head with old blades in. Meh.

Automotive lighting Bumper Automotive exterior Material property Gas

The in-feed side. Closup with level on it. I don't know if you can tell but there is a slight dip right in the middle.

Next up is waxing the tables and trying to get the blades out.
 

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#14 ·
De-rusting

Well, I finally had a chance to start tackling the jointer cleanup. luckily the in/out-feed tables were fairly clean and had only light rust. I took two passes with rust cleaner on both and then a light sand with WD-40 as "lubricant". They cleaned right up and look good.
The cutter head is a different story. It's more rusted and harder to clean. I did the best I could with a wire brush and a green scrub pad. I'll know later if I helped any in getting the old blades out.
Sadly, I learned that the infeed table has a slight dish to it and, without re-grinding or LOTS of sanding, it's as good as it's going to get. To be honest, I don;t even know if its worth re-grinding it. That would likely cost more than I paid and more than it's worth. Ah well.
Pics attached.
Musical instrument Bumper Electronic instrument Automotive exterior Musical instrument accessory

This is the beast without it's fence. Tables are level with each other. Good!

Rectangle Wood Floor Composite material Gas

The out-feed side. Some discoloration but flat and smoooooooth.

Wood Rectangle Gas Metal Composite material

Cutter head with old blades in. Meh.

Automotive lighting Bumper Automotive exterior Material property Gas

The in-feed side. Closup with level on it. I don't know if you can tell but there is a slight dip right in the middle.

Next up is waxing the tables and trying to get the blades out.
In all honesty, the infeed table being dished really isnt going to affect your work. As your material hits the knives the OUTFEED table is the one that needs to be straight and true. Setting infeed dictates the depth of cut your doing as you feed into knives. You hold your piece flat on the outfeed as you pass your wood through the planer.
I have a Craftsman jointer like that for 40 years, heavy and works great.
 

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#16 ·
cart!

Started assembling the replacement cart for the jointer today. It went pretty well. I tried the technique of making a shallow saw kerf and then slicing it off to make a rabbet. This was the first time I'd tried that technique and it worked BEAUTIFULLY! I was super happy. Ive watched videos of people doing this and they always used 1/8" spacer bars to offset the piece. I just lined op the piece with the INSIDE of the blade, then used a cutoff as a spacer and made the kerf. Perfect. :D
I also cobbled together what will be the chip chute out of scraps. This also went really well but I still need to seal it.

Things that did NOT go well:
I overlooked / forgot that the belt for the motor come into the back of the jointer in between the body of the jointer and the "outrigger" for the fence. I have an idea of what to do about it but I still and not happy that I overlooked it or forgot about it.
I did not get a shelf out of the wood I had. I really want one to go in the cart for storage but just didn't have the material for it. Maybe I can cobble something together.
When I was putting the caters on, one of the mounting blocks split. Poo!

This new cart uses about 80% of the floor space of the mobile base it came with ( I know that doesn't seem like a lot of difference but, trust me, every square inch counts), it will have storage where the stand did not, It's about 500% easier to move and will have a chip chute where the stand just threw them all over the floor. I'm looking forward to having it done!
 
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