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Cedar Sliding Doors #1: Design Considerations

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Blog entry by lysdexic posted 08-04-2013 02:21 AM 1614 reads 0 times favorited 30 comments Add to Favorites Watch
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Life is returning to normalcy around here and I need to make some sawdust as opposed to just reading about it.

One source of turmoil at the hacienda has been a major backyard project. We put a roof on an existing patio and put in a pool. I was not prepared for the stress of a remodel. The whole process has been one disaster after another. But is 98% done now.

The patio is screened in and the roof is supported by 8×8” cedar posts. We also replaced the doors leading to the porch with 9’ double sliders.

I am going to make a double sliding cedar screen door using barn door hardware with these design considerations:

- the opening is 5’ wide and a double slider mirrors the opening of the glass sliding doors
-the lower panel needs to stay low as to not obstruct the view.
-using 2x cedar lumber
-maybe echo the transoms of the glass sliders
-hanging door- so stress should be minimal
-the ceiling in the patio is T&G cedar, maybe echo this with a panel of T&G
-avoid a rail in the middle to not block the view
-the top and sides of the doors will overlap the existing structure by approx 1”

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Here is the space. These picks are a few weeks old. The porch is now screened.

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This is what I drew up this evening.

-The outside stiles are 6” wide with about 1” overlap thus 5” wide visually. Therefore I propose a center stile at 2 1/2” so that, when the doors are closed, they are 5” wide visually.

- I tired to use the ratios of 3-5-8. I.E. the main posts are 8” and the stiles are 5”

ANY objections and suggestions are welcome.

Thanks,

Scott

-- It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble in your shoe. - Muhammad Ali



30 comments so far

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lysdexic

4892 posts in 1367 days


#1 posted 08-04-2013 02:33 AM

Hoping to end up with something like this…...

-- It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble in your shoe. - Muhammad Ali

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lysdexic

4892 posts in 1367 days


#2 posted 08-04-2013 02:35 AM

Also planing to plane the doors down to a smooth finish to contrast with the rough sawn cedar.

-- It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble in your shoe. - Muhammad Ali

View Brit's profile

Brit

5300 posts in 1587 days


#3 posted 08-04-2013 08:36 AM

Your design looks fine to me Scott. Should work great.

-- Andy -- Old Chinese proverb say: If you think something can't be done, don't interrupt man who is doing it.

View chrisstef's profile

chrisstef

11445 posts in 1750 days


#4 posted 08-04-2013 12:40 PM

Im glad youve thought about the view in and out of the door. The deck rails at my house completely obstruct the view when sitting. Drives me insane. Cedar should be noce to work with and light enough not to stress any hardware.

Do your thang brotha!

For hardware ive recently been jocking signaturehardware.com.

-- "there aren’t many hand tools as awe-inspiring as the #8 jointer. I mean, it just reeks of cast iron heft and hubris" - Smitty

View Don W's profile

Don W

15516 posts in 1311 days


#5 posted 08-04-2013 12:48 PM

Nice porch. I like the design. I (well, my wife’s idea) took the rail off my porch. Its much better.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.com

View lysdexic's profile

lysdexic

4892 posts in 1367 days


#6 posted 08-04-2013 04:13 PM

Thank you gentlemen.

Along the skill building process I am still dependent upon plans. I just wanted to make sure that my crack smoking was not effecting my design judgement.

Given the 1 1/2” stock I am planning on drawboring a 1/2” by 2” deep motise and tenon joints.

Do you think cedar pegs will be strong enough for the draw bore or should I switch to white oak for strength and outdoor resiliency?

Also, from a durabilty aspect, do you guys think that I will be OK without a rail at the level of the pull?

-- It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble in your shoe. - Muhammad Ali

View ShaneA's profile

ShaneA

5444 posts in 1342 days


#7 posted 08-04-2013 04:31 PM

Looks pretty good to me. I have never built a door of that size, so no real structure advice here. I will say that the inspiration pic has wider vertical boards where the doors come together. I am not sure if a 2 1/2” wide center is structurally adequate, or not. It just feels/looks a bit narrow. But, I have nothing to base that on other than initial reaction.

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lysdexic

4892 posts in 1367 days


#8 posted 08-04-2013 04:43 PM

Shane thanks for the input. I have the same concern and no experience either. I considered 3” but chose 2 1/2” for no other reason than trying to keep it visually thin and match what is exposed on the others.

Hmmm.

-- It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble in your shoe. - Muhammad Ali

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chrisstef

11445 posts in 1750 days


#9 posted 08-04-2013 06:25 PM

Structurally speaking i think theyll be fine considering they’ll slide instead of open in a traditional sense. The constant tugging would worry me if it was a traditional swinging door. There’s just not much force being applied in any direction. White oak pegs might be a cool look and would keep it from racking which i think is the only real force youre working against.

-- "there aren’t many hand tools as awe-inspiring as the #8 jointer. I mean, it just reeks of cast iron heft and hubris" - Smitty

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lysdexic

4892 posts in 1367 days


#10 posted 08-04-2013 06:38 PM

Dang Stef, that almost read like and intelligent and thoughtful answer but I know better.

-- It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble in your shoe. - Muhammad Ali

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ShaneA

5444 posts in 1342 days


#11 posted 08-04-2013 06:41 PM

He must of stayed at a Holiday Inn last night.

View widdle's profile

widdle

1471 posts in 1743 days


#12 posted 08-04-2013 07:14 PM

I would consider clear, stable and dry material. Preferably final thickness fatter than 1 1/2”, Know going in that perfection will be difficult with the smaller center stiles staying parralel over time…

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chrisstef

11445 posts in 1750 days


#13 posted 08-04-2013 07:14 PM

Ha. Somewhere behind the chemical imbalance and chemical influences theres a small portion of my brain that comprehends structural attributes. Why that was on display this morning is anyones guess. Even the sun shines on a dogs ass once in a while. Id also consider stop blocks at the bottom.

More handsaw.

-- "there aren’t many hand tools as awe-inspiring as the #8 jointer. I mean, it just reeks of cast iron heft and hubris" - Smitty

View Don W's profile

Don W

15516 posts in 1311 days


#14 posted 08-04-2013 07:27 PM

When you draw bore the stiles, will they be dry fit, or did you plan on gluing them to. My concern would be the cedar working on the pins. Cedar is soft and I’m not sure it will remain solid around the pins. I’ve never tried it, so I have no experience to back it up, just thinking out loud so to speak.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.com

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lysdexic

4892 posts in 1367 days


#15 posted 08-04-2013 08:56 PM

I plan on gluing. I agree the cedar is real soft and will use some other hardwood.

-- It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble in your shoe. - Muhammad Ali

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