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Moxon Vise Benchtop Bench #2: hardware installation and more design considerations

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Blog entry by lysdexic posted 01-03-2013 04:31 AM 3344 reads 2 times favorited 28 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 1: Milling the pieces Part 2 of Moxon Vise Benchtop Bench series Part 3: Assembly »

Installing the hardware was straight forward.

For the fixed jaw an 1 1/2 hole is drilled and shaped to accept the nut. Then 3/4” hole goes all the way through.

The 3/4” hole in the mobile jaw is elongated to prevent binding.

Install both screws and done!

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I really like the design aspect of woodworking.

First, the vise needs to be secured to the bench top. One way is to make the fixed jaw longer and clamp it. Like so….

The hole seemed awkward to me so I left my fixed jaw 2” longer on each side and will cut away a block to expose a platform that can either be clamp or held with a hold fast.

Another way to secure the vise is by pinching a lip behind the fixed jaw. This is the primary way that I’ll secure my vise. But if you don’t have a tail vise and dog holes, holdfasts can still be used.

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Next, the legs. Since my table height is taller than the plan the legs appear blocky and unappealing. So I decided to taper them. The proportions follow the golden ratio. The leg meets the beam at 38% of the length. The foot is 62% of that length. The beam is 38% the height of the leg.

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Next, I plan to employ dog hole along each side to increase clamping versatility. The center-line is 1 1/2” from the edge to echo the thickness of the top. They are spaced 3” apart because the capacity of the vise is just above the distance.

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The front, mobile jaw is 2” thick and appears too thick in comparison to this rest of the table and vise. To visually balance their thicknesses I plan on beveling the edges so the resultant edge is 1 1/2”.

Finally, the “relief” bevel on the mobile jaw will actually be rounded over to echo the contour of the bench leg vise. Further, I am contemplated a compound round over to match the curve of the Benchcrafted handle. At first the plan was to remove enough material to make 62% the way to the jaw surface. I think this is too much thus I will go half way.

These are the things that I think about. Thanks for looking. Suggestions?

-- It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble in your shoe. - Muhammad Ali



28 comments so far

View Brandon's profile

Brandon

4138 posts in 1605 days


#1 posted 01-03-2013 04:49 AM

Looking great, Scott! To quote Mauricio: Oh yeah, this is going to be much, much, beter than Brandon’s. In Yo Face Brandon!

-- "hold fast to that which is good"

View balidoug's profile

balidoug

363 posts in 1132 days


#2 posted 01-03-2013 10:38 AM

Would have loved to have seen this a few months ago! ;)

Next builders now have a great source. Thanks for the post.

-- From such crooked wood as that which man is made of, nothing straight can be fashioned. Immanuel Kant

View Don W's profile

Don W

15029 posts in 1221 days


#3 posted 01-03-2013 12:28 PM

well done, as usual.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.com

View Smitty_Cabinetshop's profile

Smitty_Cabinetshop

9896 posts in 1272 days


#4 posted 01-03-2013 12:42 PM

The relief bevel will be very cool. I like, and look forward to your eval of the Moxon.

-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. -- OldTools Archive

View AnthonyReed's profile

AnthonyReed

4655 posts in 1093 days


#5 posted 01-03-2013 03:25 PM

Artful in all things.

I really enjoyed following your thought process through the leg design and determining the relief bevel. Your use of the golden ratio placed it in a tangible prospective for me. Excellent blog. Thank you.

-- ~Tony

View sb194's profile

sb194

176 posts in 1672 days


#6 posted 01-03-2013 04:34 PM

Looks great. The bevel should look good.

Sean

View jusfine's profile

jusfine

2280 posts in 1579 days


#7 posted 01-03-2013 04:50 PM

Nicely done Scott! If you don’t mind, I will borrow some of your excellent ideas for my design!

I have half of my Benchcrafted hardware in the shop, the rest is on the way, so my bench build, and resulting Moxon build will be happening later this month… yours looks so good, I am encouraged and ready to get started!

-- Randy "You are judged as much by the questions you ask as the answers you give..."

View Brit's profile

Brit

5148 posts in 1496 days


#8 posted 01-03-2013 05:58 PM

I don’t know, first you revel in Roubo and now your mixin’ it with Moxon. You’re setting the bar high. Luckily, I’m not affected by pictures of gorgeous benches or new shiny tools.

Thanks for documenting the process though, not that I’ll ever refer to it. :o)

-- Andy -- Old Chinese proverb say: If you think something can't be done, don't interrupt man who is doing it.

View lj61673's profile

lj61673

231 posts in 1052 days


#9 posted 01-03-2013 09:09 PM

I know the bevel at the front of the chop looks good but you may want to reconsider. When sawing the dovetails the piece is always elevated above the front chop and the saw should not come close to the chop, making the bevel unneccessary. If you leave the chop full thickness it can be used as a surface to register your chisel. This makes it much easier to get a flat perpendicular bottom when paring the pin bottoms.
Function over form…

View AnthonyReed's profile

AnthonyReed

4655 posts in 1093 days


#10 posted 01-03-2013 09:15 PM

^ Damn good point.

-- ~Tony

View lysdexic's profile

lysdexic

4822 posts in 1276 days


#11 posted 01-03-2013 09:29 PM

Really good point

-- It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble in your shoe. - Muhammad Ali

View Brit's profile

Brit

5148 posts in 1496 days


#12 posted 01-03-2013 09:36 PM

...and less work.

-- Andy -- Old Chinese proverb say: If you think something can't be done, don't interrupt man who is doing it.

View lysdexic's profile

lysdexic

4822 posts in 1276 days


#13 posted 01-04-2013 01:12 AM

lj61673,
Given your stament, I pare down the relief bevel to just 38% of the thickness. This will leave a good 1 1/4” flat surface for registration.

Now: I am open to suggestion here. I have contemplated how to execute the bevel. It is essentially a stopped round-over. My thoughts are to make 45 degree relief x-cuts on each end perpendicular to long axis. Then split out the waste to achieve a starter bevel. Then start cross grain planing.

Once happy with that contour, start shaping the stops to echo the circular form of the hand wheels.

I was going to make a template from the leg vise chop to fair the curve.

Smooth and finish with sand paper.

-- It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble in your shoe. - Muhammad Ali

View Sylvain's profile

Sylvain

553 posts in 1153 days


#14 posted 01-04-2013 01:48 PM

Very nice design and realisation.

You plan to make dogholes at 1 1/2” from the edge.

If you plan to also use holdfast in these holes, this seems (to me) to be, very close to the edge.

You might want to experiment with that first on scrap because the stress induced by the holdfast might cause a failure by shearing.

Great reading about tension and compression by Chris Hall :

”In fact, when it comes to designing pegged wood connections, the timber framing practice is now to follow the established engineering standards for bolted timber connections: compression joints require a minimum 3x peg diameter measured in length of material which remains in the tenon beyond the peg – the relais, or ‘relish’ as it is termed. For tension joints however, 7x peg diameter is the minimum.”

-- Sylvain, Brussels, Belgium, Europe - The more I learn, the more there is to learn

View Mauricio's profile

Mauricio

6819 posts in 1805 days


#15 posted 01-04-2013 02:12 PM

This is going to be the most unique moxon ever. Cant wait to see the reveal!
Its going to be so much better than Brandon’s its not even funny. He should be ashamed of half aasing his moxon the way he did…

Andy, resistance is futile….

-- Mauricio - Woodstock, GA - "Confusion is the Womb of Learning, with utter conviction being it's Tomb" Prof. T.O. Nitsch

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