Installing the hardware was straight forward.
For the fixed jaw an 1 1/2 hole is drilled and shaped to accept the nut. Then 3/4” hole goes all the way through.



The 3/4” hole in the mobile jaw is elongated to prevent binding.

Install both screws and done!

———————————————————————————————————————————————————————-
I really like the design aspect of woodworking.
First, the vise needs to be secured to the bench top. One way is to make the fixed jaw longer and clamp it. Like so….

The hole seemed awkward to me so I left my fixed jaw 2” longer on each side and will cut away a block to expose a platform that can either be clamp or held with a hold fast.

Another way to secure the vise is by pinching a lip behind the fixed jaw. This is the primary way that I’ll secure my vise. But if you don’t have a tail vise and dog holes, holdfasts can still be used.

———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————-
Next, the legs. Since my table height is taller than the plan the legs appear blocky and unappealing. So I decided to taper them. The proportions follow the golden ratio. The leg meets the beam at 38% of the length. The foot is 62% of that length. The beam is 38% the height of the leg.





————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Next, I plan to employ dog hole along each side to increase clamping versatility. The center-line is 1 1/2” from the edge to echo the thickness of the top. They are spaced 3” apart because the capacity of the vise is just above the distance.

—————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————-
The front, mobile jaw is 2” thick and appears too thick in comparison to this rest of the table and vise. To visually balance their thicknesses I plan on beveling the edges so the resultant edge is 1 1/2”.

Finally, the “relief” bevel on the mobile jaw will actually be rounded over to echo the contour of the bench leg vise. Further, I am contemplated a compound round over to match the curve of the Benchcrafted handle. At first the plan was to remove enough material to make 62% the way to the jaw surface. I think this is too much thus I will go half way.



These are the things that I think about. Thanks for looking. Suggestions?
-- I hate being bipolar. It's awesome! :^ ) ^:

















28 comments so far
Brandon
home | projects | blog
3759 posts in 1121 days
#1 posted 140 days ago
Looking great, Scott! To quote Mauricio: Oh yeah, this is going to be much, much, beter than Brandon’s. In Yo Face Brandon!
-- "hold fast to that which is good"
balidoug
home | projects | blog
333 posts in 648 days
#2 posted 140 days ago
Would have loved to have seen this a few months ago! ;)
Next builders now have a great source. Thanks for the post.
-- From such crooked wood as that which man is made of, nothing straight can be fashioned. Immanuel Kant
Don W
home | projects | blog
9951 posts in 737 days
#3 posted 139 days ago
well done, as usual.
-- There is nothing like the sound of a well tuned hand plane. - http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com (timetestedtools at hotmail dot c0m)
Smitty_Cabinetshop
home | projects | blog
6394 posts in 788 days
#4 posted 139 days ago
The relief bevel will be very cool. I like, and look forward to your eval of the Moxon.
-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. -- OldTools Archive
AnthonyReed
home | projects | blog
1352 posts in 610 days
#5 posted 139 days ago
Artful in all things.
I really enjoyed following your thought process through the leg design and determining the relief bevel. Your use of the golden ratio placed it in a tangible prospective for me. Excellent blog. Thank you.
-- ~Tony
sb194
home | projects | blog
161 posts in 1188 days
#6 posted 139 days ago
Looks great. The bevel should look good.
Sean
jusfine
home | projects | blog
2152 posts in 1096 days
#7 posted 139 days ago
Nicely done Scott! If you don’t mind, I will borrow some of your excellent ideas for my design!
I have half of my Benchcrafted hardware in the shop, the rest is on the way, so my bench build, and resulting Moxon build will be happening later this month… yours looks so good, I am encouraged and ready to get started!
-- Randy "You are judged as much by the questions you ask as the answers you give..."
Brit
home | projects | blog
4195 posts in 1012 days
#8 posted 139 days ago
I don’t know, first you revel in Roubo and now your mixin’ it with Moxon. You’re setting the bar high. Luckily, I’m not affected by pictures of gorgeous benches or new shiny tools.
Thanks for documenting the process though, not that I’ll ever refer to it. :o)
-- Andy -- Old Chinese proverb say: If you think something can't be done, don't interrupt man who is doing it.
lj61673
home | projects | blog
169 posts in 569 days
#9 posted 139 days ago
I know the bevel at the front of the chop looks good but you may want to reconsider. When sawing the dovetails the piece is always elevated above the front chop and the saw should not come close to the chop, making the bevel unneccessary. If you leave the chop full thickness it can be used as a surface to register your chisel. This makes it much easier to get a flat perpendicular bottom when paring the pin bottoms.
Function over form…
AnthonyReed
home | projects | blog
1352 posts in 610 days
#10 posted 139 days ago
^ Damn good point.
-- ~Tony
lysdexic
home | projects | blog
3433 posts in 793 days
#11 posted 139 days ago
Really good point
-- I hate being bipolar. It's awesome! :^ ) ^:
Brit
home | projects | blog
4195 posts in 1012 days
#12 posted 139 days ago
...and less work.
-- Andy -- Old Chinese proverb say: If you think something can't be done, don't interrupt man who is doing it.
lysdexic
home | projects | blog
3433 posts in 793 days
#13 posted 139 days ago
lj61673,
Given your stament, I pare down the relief bevel to just 38% of the thickness. This will leave a good 1 1/4” flat surface for registration.
Now: I am open to suggestion here. I have contemplated how to execute the bevel. It is essentially a stopped round-over. My thoughts are to make 45 degree relief x-cuts on each end perpendicular to long axis. Then split out the waste to achieve a starter bevel. Then start cross grain planing.
Once happy with that contour, start shaping the stops to echo the circular form of the hand wheels.
I was going to make a template from the leg vise chop to fair the curve.
Smooth and finish with sand paper.
-- I hate being bipolar. It's awesome! :^ ) ^:
Sylvain
home | projects | blog
465 posts in 669 days
#14 posted 138 days ago
Very nice design and realisation.
You plan to make dogholes at 1 1/2” from the edge.
If you plan to also use holdfast in these holes, this seems (to me) to be, very close to the edge.
You might want to experiment with that first on scrap because the stress induced by the holdfast might cause a failure by shearing.
Great reading about tension and compression by Chris Hall :
”In fact, when it comes to designing pegged wood connections, the timber framing practice is now to follow the established engineering standards for bolted timber connections: compression joints require a minimum 3x peg diameter measured in length of material which remains in the tenon beyond the peg – the relais, or ‘relish’ as it is termed. For tension joints however, 7x peg diameter is the minimum.”
-- Sylvain, Brussels, Belgium, Europe - The more I learn, the more there is to learn
Mauricio
home | projects | blog
5138 posts in 1321 days
#15 posted 138 days ago
This is going to be the most unique moxon ever. Cant wait to see the reveal!
Its going to be so much better than Brandon’s its not even funny. He should be ashamed of half aasing his moxon the way he did…
Andy, resistance is futile….
-- Mauricio - Woodstock, GA - "Confusion is the Womb of Learning, with utter conviction being it's Tomb" Prof. T.O. Nitsch
View all comments »
showing 1 through 15 of 28 comments
Have your say...