I felt a little stuck here. The remaining maple lumber that I had was milled 4/4 stuff obviously from a different tree/species and very white. I wanted the gap stop to match the rest of the top. Primarily as to not draw attention to itself and leave a more monolithic look to the bench top. Rick, the lumber guy did not have any boards left of the wood used to make the top wide enough to do the job. So, it is time to glue up some scraps. I rough jointed 2 surfaces with my #8. I really like this plane. The finished with a finely set #7.
Time to empty the bleachers.
Unfortunately, after milling these two boards I was still just shy of the width I needed so i jointed and glued on another board. It was this last small board that I was having trouble jointed because it was bowed. I tried to grab hold and clamp it with screws. The screw broke and that didn’t work with a damn.
Finally, I resawed this board and went to mill these to their final 5/8” thickness. I noticed that my fairly new DeWalt 735 is leaving ridges. WTF? I forgot to take out the broken screw from the day before. Sucks.
Got to press on. From a design aspect, I decided to cap the gapstop with a cherry cap using a M&T joint. One reason is to match the other end cap. The other is because by the time I glued up this board, resawed it, the laiminated the spacer there would be 7 different pieces of end grain exposed.
A cut off was laminated and fashioned into a tenon. The spacers were also cut-offs.
The cherry cap was fashioned from a previous leg cut-off, cut to size and mortised. The laminated tenon was just at 1/2” so a 1/2” brad point bit hogged out the waste nicely. The rest was pared with a chisel. Like my fancy drill press table. I reallly need to make one that is attached and has a dependable fence.
I shaped rounded the corners of the tenon using a rasp. Before fitting the cap, I had to re-square the shoulders from the glue up. The tenon is a bit long and was shortened. The cap was intentionally cut a tad large. I do not trust the accuracy of my machine work. Jonters, planers and routers get me most of the way there but I achieve my accuracy by sneaking up on a good fit using hand tools.
My M&T fit was a tad loose or at least I used that as an excuse to drawbore this joint. I had a couple cherry pegs left over from the under-carriage construction. I chose 5/16” for these pegs. Thus, I removed some bulk with a block plane and then slammed them back through the dowel plate. I enjoy making pegs. Its the simple things.
Finally, I cut the notches on the bottom so the gap stop will straddle the upper stretchers and lie flush with the top. Elbow in, reflection straight, parallel lines.
Various pictures of the final result.
Thanks for following along.
-- "It's only wood. Use it." - Smitty