I have seen some markedly ornate cutting boards here on LJ but this style always intrigued me. I give full credit to MTM Wood for the how to. This Russian fellow has a website where he sells his boards and a YouTube channel that shows how to make many of the fancy styles you see. But unlike him, I do not have a large capacity sliding table saw. Nor do I have a 20" planer. Nor do I have a dual-drum sander.
So here's now I did it with my 13' Dewalt planer and my 10" Sawstop. First you start by making some everyday end grain cutting boards. You can use as many colors as you like but DO NOT MAKE THE PATTERN SYMMETRIC or you will not get a crazy, mixed-up pattern.
First the lumber. Maple, Walnut, Purpleheart and Cherry. Never mind the Yelloheart. It's for another project
Then you glue up the blanks. Mine are just a smidgen under 13" to make it through my planer
Then you go through and make you end grain cuts. You will be making a series of at least 2 and maybe three cuts after this. As such, allow for waste as you will need to smooth things up after the glue ups. I make mine 1 5/8". I then mixed the cutoffs from the 4 different blanks
Then glue up and ordinary end-grain cutting board
If you are fortunate enough to have a good drum sander, clean up both surfaces. I do not so what I did was smoothed one side with a belt sander so as to have a clean surface to run on the table saw. Clean up your four sides and move on. On his site, MTM puts his end-grain boards through his big planer. I do not feel safe doing that
Now comes the first "angled cut" If you are fortunate enough to have a sliding saw or a way to secure large, angled cuts you are ahead of my game. As for me, I simple secured a wedge on one end of the board. The board was a little under 13" so I made my first cut at 12 3/4" and subsequently moved the fence in 1 1/4" inches on each cut. I had four boards that were about 17" long. I had a few extra pieces that made a regular end-grain board"
Here are photos showing the cut pieces simply laid back together
So remember I cut up 4 boards. Since you lose length with these cuts and the clean up, I randomized the angled cuts to create 3 new boards. If you need, a piece can be flipped end-for-end but it will then also need to be tuned rolled over 180 degrees to preserve the integrity of the glue up.
So now you glue up board from the angled pieces. You will need to have a system to clamp the sides as well as the angled pieces will other wise slip off each other.
So now it is time to make a second angled cut. Make this cut perpendicular to the first cut you made. I used the same wedge as before. I had anticipated that I would have to smooth one side again but my glue up actually came out pretty darn flat so I went straight to the saw. Starting the first cut about a half inch in from the end, I again went 1 1/4" wide. So, after making this second angled cut, I simply skimmed both sides on the saw to clean thing up. Once again, I randomized the parts form the three boards and did a third glue up Again, clamp the sides to keep things aligned as you tighten up those pipe clamps.
A third angle cut would have really made this look like confetti but since I had to have one of these ready for a wedding present today, I called it good. Now this is where I would give my eyeteeth for a really good drum sander but alas it was just be and my faithful, bearing squealing Craftsman belt sander. What follow are some pictures of the raw boards and then the oiled boards.
I have seen some markedly ornate cutting boards here on LJ but this style always intrigued me. I give full credit to MTM Wood for the how to. This Russian fellow has a website where he sells his boards and a YouTube channel that shows how to make many of the fancy styles you see. But unlike him, I do not have a large capacity sliding table saw. Nor do I have a 20" planer. Nor do I have a dual-drum sander.
So here's now I did it with my 13' Dewalt planer and my 10" Sawstop. First you start by making some everyday end grain cutting boards. You can use as many colors as you like but DO NOT MAKE THE PATTERN SYMMETRIC or you will not get a crazy, mixed-up pattern.
First the lumber. Maple, Walnut, Purpleheart and Cherry. Never mind the Yelloheart. It's for another project
Then you glue up the blanks. Mine are just a smidgen under 13" to make it through my planer
Then you go through and make you end grain cuts. You will be making a series of at least 2 and maybe three cuts after this. As such, allow for waste as you will need to smooth things up after the glue ups. I make mine 1 5/8". I then mixed the cutoffs from the 4 different blanks
Then glue up and ordinary end-grain cutting board
If you are fortunate enough to have a good drum sander, clean up both surfaces. I do not so what I did was smoothed one side with a belt sander so as to have a clean surface to run on the table saw. Clean up your four sides and move on. On his site, MTM puts his end-grain boards through his big planer. I do not feel safe doing that
Now comes the first "angled cut" If you are fortunate enough to have a sliding saw or a way to secure large, angled cuts you are ahead of my game. As for me, I simple secured a wedge on one end of the board. The board was a little under 13" so I made my first cut at 12 3/4" and subsequently moved the fence in 1 1/4" inches on each cut. I had four boards that were about 17" long. I had a few extra pieces that made a regular end-grain board"
Here are photos showing the cut pieces simply laid back together
So remember I cut up 4 boards. Since you lose length with these cuts and the clean up, I randomized the angled cuts to create 3 new boards. If you need, a piece can be flipped end-for-end but it will then also need to be tuned rolled over 180 degrees to preserve the integrity of the glue up.
So now you glue up board from the angled pieces. You will need to have a system to clamp the sides as well as the angled pieces will other wise slip off each other.
So now it is time to make a second angled cut. Make this cut perpendicular to the first cut you made. I used the same wedge as before. I had anticipated that I would have to smooth one side again but my glue up actually came out pretty darn flat so I went straight to the saw. Starting the first cut about a half inch in from the end, I again went 1 1/4" wide. So, after making this second angled cut, I simply skimmed both sides on the saw to clean thing up. Once again, I randomized the parts form the three boards and did a third glue up Again, clamp the sides to keep things aligned as you tighten up those pipe clamps.
A third angle cut would have really made this look like confetti but since I had to have one of these ready for a wedding present today, I called it good. Now this is where I would give my eyeteeth for a really good drum sander but alas it was just be and my faithful, bearing squealing Craftsman belt sander. What follow are some pictures of the raw boards and then the oiled boards.
I have seen some markedly ornate cutting boards here on LJ but this style always intrigued me. I give full credit to MTM Wood for the how to. This Russian fellow has a website where he sells his boards and a YouTube channel that shows how to make many of the fancy styles you see. But unlike him, I do not have a large capacity sliding table saw. Nor do I have a 20" planer. Nor do I have a dual-drum sander.
So here's now I did it with my 13' Dewalt planer and my 10" Sawstop. First you start by making some everyday end grain cutting boards. You can use as many colors as you like but DO NOT MAKE THE PATTERN SYMMETRIC or you will not get a crazy, mixed-up pattern.
First the lumber. Maple, Walnut, Purpleheart and Cherry. Never mind the Yelloheart. It's for another project
Then you glue up the blanks. Mine are just a smidgen under 13" to make it through my planer
Then you go through and make you end grain cuts. You will be making a series of at least 2 and maybe three cuts after this. As such, allow for waste as you will need to smooth things up after the glue ups. I make mine 1 5/8". I then mixed the cutoffs from the 4 different blanks
Then glue up and ordinary end-grain cutting board
If you are fortunate enough to have a good drum sander, clean up both surfaces. I do not so what I did was smoothed one side with a belt sander so as to have a clean surface to run on the table saw. Clean up your four sides and move on. On his site, MTM puts his end-grain boards through his big planer. I do not feel safe doing that
Now comes the first "angled cut" If you are fortunate enough to have a sliding saw or a way to secure large, angled cuts you are ahead of my game. As for me, I simple secured a wedge on one end of the board. The board was a little under 13" so I made my first cut at 12 3/4" and subsequently moved the fence in 1 1/4" inches on each cut. I had four boards that were about 17" long. I had a few extra pieces that made a regular end-grain board"
Here are photos showing the cut pieces simply laid back together
So remember I cut up 4 boards. Since you lose length with these cuts and the clean up, I randomized the angled cuts to create 3 new boards. If you need, a piece can be flipped end-for-end but it will then also need to be tuned rolled over 180 degrees to preserve the integrity of the glue up.
So now you glue up board from the angled pieces. You will need to have a system to clamp the sides as well as the angled pieces will other wise slip off each other.
So now it is time to make a second angled cut. Make this cut perpendicular to the first cut you made. I used the same wedge as before. I had anticipated that I would have to smooth one side again but my glue up actually came out pretty darn flat so I went straight to the saw. Starting the first cut about a half inch in from the end, I again went 1 1/4" wide. So, after making this second angled cut, I simply skimmed both sides on the saw to clean thing up. Once again, I randomized the parts form the three boards and did a third glue up Again, clamp the sides to keep things aligned as you tighten up those pipe clamps.
A third angle cut would have really made this look like confetti but since I had to have one of these ready for a wedding present today, I called it good. Now this is where I would give my eyeteeth for a really good drum sander but alas it was just be and my faithful, bearing squealing Craftsman belt sander. What follow are some pictures of the raw boards and then the oiled boards.
I have seen some markedly ornate cutting boards here on LJ but this style always intrigued me. I give full credit to MTM Wood for the how to. This Russian fellow has a website where he sells his boards and a YouTube channel that shows how to make many of the fancy styles you see. But unlike him, I do not have a large capacity sliding table saw. Nor do I have a 20" planer. Nor do I have a dual-drum sander.
So here's now I did it with my 13' Dewalt planer and my 10" Sawstop. First you start by making some everyday end grain cutting boards. You can use as many colors as you like but DO NOT MAKE THE PATTERN SYMMETRIC or you will not get a crazy, mixed-up pattern.
First the lumber. Maple, Walnut, Purpleheart and Cherry. Never mind the Yelloheart. It's for another project
Then you glue up the blanks. Mine are just a smidgen under 13" to make it through my planer
Then you go through and make you end grain cuts. You will be making a series of at least 2 and maybe three cuts after this. As such, allow for waste as you will need to smooth things up after the glue ups. I make mine 1 5/8". I then mixed the cutoffs from the 4 different blanks
Then glue up and ordinary end-grain cutting board
If you are fortunate enough to have a good drum sander, clean up both surfaces. I do not so what I did was smoothed one side with a belt sander so as to have a clean surface to run on the table saw. Clean up your four sides and move on. On his site, MTM puts his end-grain boards through his big planer. I do not feel safe doing that
Now comes the first "angled cut" If you are fortunate enough to have a sliding saw or a way to secure large, angled cuts you are ahead of my game. As for me, I simple secured a wedge on one end of the board. The board was a little under 13" so I made my first cut at 12 3/4" and subsequently moved the fence in 1 1/4" inches on each cut. I had four boards that were about 17" long. I had a few extra pieces that made a regular end-grain board"
Here are photos showing the cut pieces simply laid back together
So remember I cut up 4 boards. Since you lose length with these cuts and the clean up, I randomized the angled cuts to create 3 new boards. If you need, a piece can be flipped end-for-end but it will then also need to be tuned rolled over 180 degrees to preserve the integrity of the glue up.
So now you glue up board from the angled pieces. You will need to have a system to clamp the sides as well as the angled pieces will other wise slip off each other.
So now it is time to make a second angled cut. Make this cut perpendicular to the first cut you made. I used the same wedge as before. I had anticipated that I would have to smooth one side again but my glue up actually came out pretty darn flat so I went straight to the saw. Starting the first cut about a half inch in from the end, I again went 1 1/4" wide. So, after making this second angled cut, I simply skimmed both sides on the saw to clean thing up. Once again, I randomized the parts form the three boards and did a third glue up Again, clamp the sides to keep things aligned as you tighten up those pipe clamps.
A third angle cut would have really made this look like confetti but since I had to have one of these ready for a wedding present today, I called it good. Now this is where I would give my eyeteeth for a really good drum sander but alas it was just be and my faithful, bearing squealing Craftsman belt sander. What follow are some pictures of the raw boards and then the oiled boards.
I have seen some markedly ornate cutting boards here on LJ but this style always intrigued me. I give full credit to MTM Wood for the how to. This Russian fellow has a website where he sells his boards and a YouTube channel that shows how to make many of the fancy styles you see. But unlike him, I do not have a large capacity sliding table saw. Nor do I have a 20" planer. Nor do I have a dual-drum sander.
So here's now I did it with my 13' Dewalt planer and my 10" Sawstop. First you start by making some everyday end grain cutting boards. You can use as many colors as you like but DO NOT MAKE THE PATTERN SYMMETRIC or you will not get a crazy, mixed-up pattern.
First the lumber. Maple, Walnut, Purpleheart and Cherry. Never mind the Yelloheart. It's for another project
Then you glue up the blanks. Mine are just a smidgen under 13" to make it through my planer
Then you go through and make you end grain cuts. You will be making a series of at least 2 and maybe three cuts after this. As such, allow for waste as you will need to smooth things up after the glue ups. I make mine 1 5/8". I then mixed the cutoffs from the 4 different blanks
Then glue up and ordinary end-grain cutting board
If you are fortunate enough to have a good drum sander, clean up both surfaces. I do not so what I did was smoothed one side with a belt sander so as to have a clean surface to run on the table saw. Clean up your four sides and move on. On his site, MTM puts his end-grain boards through his big planer. I do not feel safe doing that
Now comes the first "angled cut" If you are fortunate enough to have a sliding saw or a way to secure large, angled cuts you are ahead of my game. As for me, I simple secured a wedge on one end of the board. The board was a little under 13" so I made my first cut at 12 3/4" and subsequently moved the fence in 1 1/4" inches on each cut. I had four boards that were about 17" long. I had a few extra pieces that made a regular end-grain board"
Here are photos showing the cut pieces simply laid back together
So remember I cut up 4 boards. Since you lose length with these cuts and the clean up, I randomized the angled cuts to create 3 new boards. If you need, a piece can be flipped end-for-end but it will then also need to be tuned rolled over 180 degrees to preserve the integrity of the glue up.
So now you glue up board from the angled pieces. You will need to have a system to clamp the sides as well as the angled pieces will other wise slip off each other.
So now it is time to make a second angled cut. Make this cut perpendicular to the first cut you made. I used the same wedge as before. I had anticipated that I would have to smooth one side again but my glue up actually came out pretty darn flat so I went straight to the saw. Starting the first cut about a half inch in from the end, I again went 1 1/4" wide. So, after making this second angled cut, I simply skimmed both sides on the saw to clean thing up. Once again, I randomized the parts form the three boards and did a third glue up Again, clamp the sides to keep things aligned as you tighten up those pipe clamps.
A third angle cut would have really made this look like confetti but since I had to have one of these ready for a wedding present today, I called it good. Now this is where I would give my eyeteeth for a really good drum sander but alas it was just be and my faithful, bearing squealing Craftsman belt sander. What follow are some pictures of the raw boards and then the oiled boards.
Great Idea with the wedge for the 3 degree cut… I went out and bought a sliding attachment for my table saw…...also good for sheet goods…and a drum sander certainly comes in handy with these end grain boards…
I have seen some markedly ornate cutting boards here on LJ but this style always intrigued me. I give full credit to MTM Wood for the how to. This Russian fellow has a website where he sells his boards and a YouTube channel that shows how to make many of the fancy styles you see. But unlike him, I do not have a large capacity sliding table saw. Nor do I have a 20" planer. Nor do I have a dual-drum sander.
So here's now I did it with my 13' Dewalt planer and my 10" Sawstop. First you start by making some everyday end grain cutting boards. You can use as many colors as you like but DO NOT MAKE THE PATTERN SYMMETRIC or you will not get a crazy, mixed-up pattern.
First the lumber. Maple, Walnut, Purpleheart and Cherry. Never mind the Yelloheart. It's for another project
Then you glue up the blanks. Mine are just a smidgen under 13" to make it through my planer
Then you go through and make you end grain cuts. You will be making a series of at least 2 and maybe three cuts after this. As such, allow for waste as you will need to smooth things up after the glue ups. I make mine 1 5/8". I then mixed the cutoffs from the 4 different blanks
Then glue up and ordinary end-grain cutting board
If you are fortunate enough to have a good drum sander, clean up both surfaces. I do not so what I did was smoothed one side with a belt sander so as to have a clean surface to run on the table saw. Clean up your four sides and move on. On his site, MTM puts his end-grain boards through his big planer. I do not feel safe doing that
Now comes the first "angled cut" If you are fortunate enough to have a sliding saw or a way to secure large, angled cuts you are ahead of my game. As for me, I simple secured a wedge on one end of the board. The board was a little under 13" so I made my first cut at 12 3/4" and subsequently moved the fence in 1 1/4" inches on each cut. I had four boards that were about 17" long. I had a few extra pieces that made a regular end-grain board"
Here are photos showing the cut pieces simply laid back together
So remember I cut up 4 boards. Since you lose length with these cuts and the clean up, I randomized the angled cuts to create 3 new boards. If you need, a piece can be flipped end-for-end but it will then also need to be tuned rolled over 180 degrees to preserve the integrity of the glue up.
So now you glue up board from the angled pieces. You will need to have a system to clamp the sides as well as the angled pieces will other wise slip off each other.
So now it is time to make a second angled cut. Make this cut perpendicular to the first cut you made. I used the same wedge as before. I had anticipated that I would have to smooth one side again but my glue up actually came out pretty darn flat so I went straight to the saw. Starting the first cut about a half inch in from the end, I again went 1 1/4" wide. So, after making this second angled cut, I simply skimmed both sides on the saw to clean thing up. Once again, I randomized the parts form the three boards and did a third glue up Again, clamp the sides to keep things aligned as you tighten up those pipe clamps.
A third angle cut would have really made this look like confetti but since I had to have one of these ready for a wedding present today, I called it good. Now this is where I would give my eyeteeth for a really good drum sander but alas it was just be and my faithful, bearing squealing Craftsman belt sander. What follow are some pictures of the raw boards and then the oiled boards.
I have seen some markedly ornate cutting boards here on LJ but this style always intrigued me. I give full credit to MTM Wood for the how to. This Russian fellow has a website where he sells his boards and a YouTube channel that shows how to make many of the fancy styles you see. But unlike him, I do not have a large capacity sliding table saw. Nor do I have a 20" planer. Nor do I have a dual-drum sander.
So here's now I did it with my 13' Dewalt planer and my 10" Sawstop. First you start by making some everyday end grain cutting boards. You can use as many colors as you like but DO NOT MAKE THE PATTERN SYMMETRIC or you will not get a crazy, mixed-up pattern.
First the lumber. Maple, Walnut, Purpleheart and Cherry. Never mind the Yelloheart. It's for another project
Then you glue up the blanks. Mine are just a smidgen under 13" to make it through my planer
Then you go through and make you end grain cuts. You will be making a series of at least 2 and maybe three cuts after this. As such, allow for waste as you will need to smooth things up after the glue ups. I make mine 1 5/8". I then mixed the cutoffs from the 4 different blanks
Then glue up and ordinary end-grain cutting board
If you are fortunate enough to have a good drum sander, clean up both surfaces. I do not so what I did was smoothed one side with a belt sander so as to have a clean surface to run on the table saw. Clean up your four sides and move on. On his site, MTM puts his end-grain boards through his big planer. I do not feel safe doing that
Now comes the first "angled cut" If you are fortunate enough to have a sliding saw or a way to secure large, angled cuts you are ahead of my game. As for me, I simple secured a wedge on one end of the board. The board was a little under 13" so I made my first cut at 12 3/4" and subsequently moved the fence in 1 1/4" inches on each cut. I had four boards that were about 17" long. I had a few extra pieces that made a regular end-grain board"
Here are photos showing the cut pieces simply laid back together
So remember I cut up 4 boards. Since you lose length with these cuts and the clean up, I randomized the angled cuts to create 3 new boards. If you need, a piece can be flipped end-for-end but it will then also need to be tuned rolled over 180 degrees to preserve the integrity of the glue up.
So now you glue up board from the angled pieces. You will need to have a system to clamp the sides as well as the angled pieces will other wise slip off each other.
So now it is time to make a second angled cut. Make this cut perpendicular to the first cut you made. I used the same wedge as before. I had anticipated that I would have to smooth one side again but my glue up actually came out pretty darn flat so I went straight to the saw. Starting the first cut about a half inch in from the end, I again went 1 1/4" wide. So, after making this second angled cut, I simply skimmed both sides on the saw to clean thing up. Once again, I randomized the parts form the three boards and did a third glue up Again, clamp the sides to keep things aligned as you tighten up those pipe clamps.
A third angle cut would have really made this look like confetti but since I had to have one of these ready for a wedding present today, I called it good. Now this is where I would give my eyeteeth for a really good drum sander but alas it was just be and my faithful, bearing squealing Craftsman belt sander. What follow are some pictures of the raw boards and then the oiled boards.
I have seen some markedly ornate cutting boards here on LJ but this style always intrigued me. I give full credit to MTM Wood for the how to. This Russian fellow has a website where he sells his boards and a YouTube channel that shows how to make many of the fancy styles you see. But unlike him, I do not have a large capacity sliding table saw. Nor do I have a 20" planer. Nor do I have a dual-drum sander.
So here's now I did it with my 13' Dewalt planer and my 10" Sawstop. First you start by making some everyday end grain cutting boards. You can use as many colors as you like but DO NOT MAKE THE PATTERN SYMMETRIC or you will not get a crazy, mixed-up pattern.
First the lumber. Maple, Walnut, Purpleheart and Cherry. Never mind the Yelloheart. It's for another project
Then you glue up the blanks. Mine are just a smidgen under 13" to make it through my planer
Then you go through and make you end grain cuts. You will be making a series of at least 2 and maybe three cuts after this. As such, allow for waste as you will need to smooth things up after the glue ups. I make mine 1 5/8". I then mixed the cutoffs from the 4 different blanks
Then glue up and ordinary end-grain cutting board
If you are fortunate enough to have a good drum sander, clean up both surfaces. I do not so what I did was smoothed one side with a belt sander so as to have a clean surface to run on the table saw. Clean up your four sides and move on. On his site, MTM puts his end-grain boards through his big planer. I do not feel safe doing that
Now comes the first "angled cut" If you are fortunate enough to have a sliding saw or a way to secure large, angled cuts you are ahead of my game. As for me, I simple secured a wedge on one end of the board. The board was a little under 13" so I made my first cut at 12 3/4" and subsequently moved the fence in 1 1/4" inches on each cut. I had four boards that were about 17" long. I had a few extra pieces that made a regular end-grain board"
Here are photos showing the cut pieces simply laid back together
So remember I cut up 4 boards. Since you lose length with these cuts and the clean up, I randomized the angled cuts to create 3 new boards. If you need, a piece can be flipped end-for-end but it will then also need to be tuned rolled over 180 degrees to preserve the integrity of the glue up.
So now you glue up board from the angled pieces. You will need to have a system to clamp the sides as well as the angled pieces will other wise slip off each other.
So now it is time to make a second angled cut. Make this cut perpendicular to the first cut you made. I used the same wedge as before. I had anticipated that I would have to smooth one side again but my glue up actually came out pretty darn flat so I went straight to the saw. Starting the first cut about a half inch in from the end, I again went 1 1/4" wide. So, after making this second angled cut, I simply skimmed both sides on the saw to clean thing up. Once again, I randomized the parts form the three boards and did a third glue up Again, clamp the sides to keep things aligned as you tighten up those pipe clamps.
A third angle cut would have really made this look like confetti but since I had to have one of these ready for a wedding present today, I called it good. Now this is where I would give my eyeteeth for a really good drum sander but alas it was just be and my faithful, bearing squealing Craftsman belt sander. What follow are some pictures of the raw boards and then the oiled boards.
I'm making some boards myself right now & this is one of my next creations. Thanks for the tutorial. MTM woodworking is an awesome craftsman & his YouTube channel is great as well.
I have seen some markedly ornate cutting boards here on LJ but this style always intrigued me. I give full credit to MTM Wood for the how to. This Russian fellow has a website where he sells his boards and a YouTube channel that shows how to make many of the fancy styles you see. But unlike him, I do not have a large capacity sliding table saw. Nor do I have a 20" planer. Nor do I have a dual-drum sander.
So here's now I did it with my 13' Dewalt planer and my 10" Sawstop. First you start by making some everyday end grain cutting boards. You can use as many colors as you like but DO NOT MAKE THE PATTERN SYMMETRIC or you will not get a crazy, mixed-up pattern.
First the lumber. Maple, Walnut, Purpleheart and Cherry. Never mind the Yelloheart. It's for another project
Then you glue up the blanks. Mine are just a smidgen under 13" to make it through my planer
Then you go through and make you end grain cuts. You will be making a series of at least 2 and maybe three cuts after this. As such, allow for waste as you will need to smooth things up after the glue ups. I make mine 1 5/8". I then mixed the cutoffs from the 4 different blanks
Then glue up and ordinary end-grain cutting board
If you are fortunate enough to have a good drum sander, clean up both surfaces. I do not so what I did was smoothed one side with a belt sander so as to have a clean surface to run on the table saw. Clean up your four sides and move on. On his site, MTM puts his end-grain boards through his big planer. I do not feel safe doing that
Now comes the first "angled cut" If you are fortunate enough to have a sliding saw or a way to secure large, angled cuts you are ahead of my game. As for me, I simple secured a wedge on one end of the board. The board was a little under 13" so I made my first cut at 12 3/4" and subsequently moved the fence in 1 1/4" inches on each cut. I had four boards that were about 17" long. I had a few extra pieces that made a regular end-grain board"
Here are photos showing the cut pieces simply laid back together
So remember I cut up 4 boards. Since you lose length with these cuts and the clean up, I randomized the angled cuts to create 3 new boards. If you need, a piece can be flipped end-for-end but it will then also need to be tuned rolled over 180 degrees to preserve the integrity of the glue up.
So now you glue up board from the angled pieces. You will need to have a system to clamp the sides as well as the angled pieces will other wise slip off each other.
So now it is time to make a second angled cut. Make this cut perpendicular to the first cut you made. I used the same wedge as before. I had anticipated that I would have to smooth one side again but my glue up actually came out pretty darn flat so I went straight to the saw. Starting the first cut about a half inch in from the end, I again went 1 1/4" wide. So, after making this second angled cut, I simply skimmed both sides on the saw to clean thing up. Once again, I randomized the parts form the three boards and did a third glue up Again, clamp the sides to keep things aligned as you tighten up those pipe clamps.
A third angle cut would have really made this look like confetti but since I had to have one of these ready for a wedding present today, I called it good. Now this is where I would give my eyeteeth for a really good drum sander but alas it was just be and my faithful, bearing squealing Craftsman belt sander. What follow are some pictures of the raw boards and then the oiled boards.
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