Top of jig- hold down clamps, handle, and cutout. The cutout is the main new part to this jig. Previously I was using my tapering jig. The problem I encountered was that if the trimming process was not perfectly flush with the pin blank during the first trimming operation, then the blank would not clamp flat during the next set of trimmings. Because the blank doesn’t have to be perfect at this point, I changed the jig so the blank is only supported on the ends during all trimming processes. This eliminated the problem.

Bottom of jig- I used a miter slot runner on this jig, that way I don’t have to bother with the rip fence as I did with my taper jig.

Close up of the thin pieces that create the knot. I make the thin strips the same width as the pin blank. During the cutting/assembly process, the diagonal slot, for these strips, is cut in the blank but NOT all the way thru. The cut leaves about 1/16” of the blank in tack. This maintains the knots orientation evenly around the blank. The strips stick up a little because of the little part that’s not cut. I guess I could be more accurate but not every pin blank ends up exactly 2” square so I don’t take any chances.

The blank on the jig: When I made the jig, I made it wide and trimmed it on the saw. The saw blade will trim the blank flush with the edge of the jig. So aligning the blank with the edge of the jig trims everything pretty flush.

Close up of one end of the strips ready to be cut.

If anyone has questions, comments or an idea how this could be done any other way, I’m open for new ideas!

Lew

This is the spacer strip used to reposition the blanks for the second cut. The spacer goes between the blank and the fence.

This shows the blank seated against the rear stop and the blank is labeled to assure it is not reversed during the various cutting operations.

I found it easier to glue if I oriented the blank with the diagonal cut facing up. I use an old restaurant cutting board as a gluing work surface and pieces of the cutting board as culls and pads. In this picture, you can see the three strips to be glued into place. They measure 2” x 10 3/4” x 1/8”. Test fit the pieces first to make sure they will seat into the slot.

On my first attempt, I didn’t use enough clamps- using more clamps and culls assured that all of the joints were tight. I probably overdid it with the amount of glue. A liberal coat over all mating surfaces.

Clamped up

After the glue has dried and the clamps removed, the blank is ready for trimming.

I put the blank on my tapering jig and set it for no taper. The jig is used to hold the piece to trim off the excess material. This assures the piece will sit flat for the next diagonal cutting operation.

Trim the blank, rotate and re-clamp

Trim, rotate an trim again.

At this point it is a good idea to “sweeten up” the layout lines, if the trimming operation removed them.

Now it is just a matter of re-mounting the blank on the diagonal cutting jig and repeating the operations for making the second diagonal slot.

The diagonal slots, glue ups and trimming operations are the same for each of the remaining three sides.

Word of caution here- if you have to change the blade height during the trimming operation, be certain to reset it before the diagonal slot cutting operation!

After the four sides are cut, glued and trimmed.

On the lathe, ready to be turned.

The final dimensions on this rolling pin were: 20” long; diameter at the center: 1 9/16”; diameter at the ends : 1 1/4”. I have tried two types of tapers. One started at the center and continued to the ends. The other starts at the ends of the ellipses and continues to the ends. Personal preferences will determine the tapers.

Again, thanks everyone for your encouragement and help in my quest to create this. I really could not have done it without your help!

Any questions, comments and criticisms are always welcome.

Lew

The first step is to set the blade height. When the cut is made, there should be about 1/8” of material left holding the two sides together.

This really aids in the glue up by keeping the pieces aligned.

Set the blank on the jig and adjust the angle and the end stop so that the front SHORTER layout line is positioned to the LEFT side of the blade cut. Orientation is when you are standing at the back of the saw looking forward. (These pictures are from the SIDES of the saw).

Continue to adjust the angle and the end stop so that the rear LONGER layout line is positioned to the LEFT side of the blade cut.

Securely tighten all adjustments. Once these angles/lengths are set, they will not change for all of the remaining cuts.

Clamp the blank firmly in the jig. Double check the layout lines.

In order to keep the correct orientation of the blank, I labeled the end of the blank nearest me.

With everything secure, make the first cut.

Unclamp the blank.

To make the second cut, I made a space strip to reposition the blank without having to change any of the jig setting. My first guess was that this spacer would be 3/8” thick- the same as the width of the finished cut. BUT that was too thick. I guess there is a way to calculate the thickness but trial and error won out. It came out closer to 1/4” (.265”).

The second cut is made with the blank position so that the front LONGER layout line is on the RIGHT side of the saw cut.

The rear SHORTER layout line is on the RIGHT side of the saw cut.

The walnut spacer strip can be seen between the blank and the fence of the jig. The thickness of the spacer strip could be different for each person. So check the setup carefully. Also, Make sure the blank butts up against the end stop before each cut.

After the second cut has been made, there may be a thin piece of material left in the slot. I made another spacer- about 1/8”- replaced the first spacer and made a third “clean out” pass.

The finished cut should be 3/8” wide and almost through the blank.

Part #4 will cover the first glue up and trim- maybe later today or tomorrow.

Thanks for reading!

Lew

To assist in laying out the diagonals, use a 3/8” thick spacer gauge, drawing lines on the blank, along BOTH sides of the spacer gauge. It is not necessary to layout both diagonals on each side. However, a check of the second diagonal will indicate if the layout is accurate and crossing in the center of the blank.

NOTE: the cut for the diagonal strips falls within the 11” layout lines

Checking the diagonals for centered layout

Rotate the blank 90 degrees and layout the location on the next diagonal cut.
Continue rotating and drawing the diagonals until all four sides have been completed.

Each diagonal consisted of two drawn lines. One line intersected with the layout line that defined the end of the ellipse. The second diagonal line ends “short” of the ellipse layout line. The location of the end, of this diagonal line, must be carried around the blank. These lines define the location of the saw cuts for the strips that create the ellipse.

Accuracy is important when laying out these lines in order to get the ellipses to maintain continuity.

This drawing is not to scale. The measurements are what I used to make this rolling pin. The length and diameters were averaged from various baking supply web sites for their rolling pins.

I will try to post more in a day or so.

Lew

I thought it best to start with the jigs I used to prepare the turning blanks. Please note that I always over engineer everything and hardly ever see the obvious or the easy way to do something so if you see an easier way- go for it!

The first jig is one I made a while back, when I first started thinking about this project. I try to make jigs that have several uses. This one was also used to make the Cheese Knife Handles project.

Special Diagonal Cutting Jig

Sled has 2 movable fences to change the angle of the cut and position of the blank

Originally jig slid over the rip fence. Later modified to ride in miter slot for accurate repetitive cuts.

Two spacer strips on the sled needed for cleaning out the diagonal cut (more later)

Disassembled Fences

Toggle clamp holds blank during cutting operation

Partially Assembled Fences

Normal Taper Jig

During the blank assembly, it is necessary to trim waste material before proceeding to the next step. This simple tapering jig holds the blank for those cuts.

More details for this jig can be seen at http://lumberjocks.com/projects/7848

That’s a start. More in a day or so.

Lew

Yes, Charlie, it’s a jig. It is NOT a Christmas Tree ornament, a whirly jig for the Jolly Green Giant or scraps sitting on a jointer.

Lew