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Octagonal side table #2: Some progress

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Blog entry by lanwater posted 10-05-2010 08:35 PM 1251 reads 0 times favorited 7 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 1: Pattern Routing Challenge Part 2 of Octagonal side table series Part 3: Success »

I made some progress on routing the legs for my octagonal table that I blogged about last time.
Some of you remember that the oak was “grabing” on the router bit and the leg would shatter.
http://lumberjocks.com/lanwater/blog/18200

From the advise I got, I set the following goal in my last blog:
-Scroll saw /jigsaw very close to the cut line
-Sand some
-Pay attention to grain direction changes
-Pattern route the leg

Well I stuck close to the above outline and the wood did not shatter.

I still have few small “nics” that will go with sanding and 1 bigger one that will require some thinking or maybe filling.

I started on the scrollsaw and after 3 blades I cut out the inside. I obviously could not use the bandsaw because of the enclosed areas. I lost 3 blades partly because the thickness and hardness of the Oak, my inexperience with scrollsaws and also the wrong type of blades. The blades I have on hand were rated up to 1/2 inch; I am using 4/4 oak for this project.

Some of you will see that I deviated a little with the scrollsaw and created a small problem area.

I sanded some area where I was not close to the routing line as I wanted to take very little material with the router.

I then headed to the router table. I decided to use a bushing for 2 reasons:
-the templale I have (made by a friend with a CNC router) was wider than I wanted.
-I wanted my piece to be on the top so I can see grain direction changes.

With the bushing, instead a flush top bearing bit, I achieved those 2 goals

The reasult was pretty good.

Now time to cut out the outside of the leg on the bandsaw and some more flush pattern routing (top bearing bit this time):

The final result turned out pretty good. I got some damages as you see in the picture below. the call for dinner resonate through the house and I had to finish so I miss the grain direction change. I also chamfered the edges.
Wood filler maybe, epoxy with saw dust, open to ideas…

The two small circled area, I think I can sand; they are not deep.
The bigger area need some serious thinking.

Advise and criticism are welcome as always, that how I learn. Any thoughts please do not hesitate.
I never blocked anyone and never will.

Thanks for looking.

-- Abbas, Castro Valley, CA



7 comments so far

View Partridge's profile

Partridge

296 posts in 2613 days


#1 posted 10-06-2010 01:47 AM

this wood be very difficult to fix with out seeing the fix. what if you fix them all the same way ( run a contrasting strip of wood on the outside of all legs.) or maybe it may just require starting over?

-- I get out in the shop when I can

View lanwater's profile

lanwater

3084 posts in 1591 days


#2 posted 10-06-2010 02:20 AM

Partridge:
That has cross my mind. I contemplated cutting a 1/16 deep inlay accross the width and use sapele or nahogany but got actually aprehensive given the thickness of that segment.
I am not very good at that yet. I would have to try on a scrap with the same thikness and see how it comes out.

Starting over is a possibility but I am most likely going to run into similar things.

Do you think Mixing some epoxy and oak powder from the same wood, aplying the paste and sanding it would work?

Thanks for your input, much appreciated.

-- Abbas, Castro Valley, CA

View sras's profile

sras

3844 posts in 1786 days


#3 posted 10-06-2010 05:35 AM

I would try to cut away the damaged area and glue in a piece of matching wood. Then reshape. Take some time to get a tight fit and try to make the glue line as faint as possible. Here is a post where I share some of my efforts to do the same…

-- Steve - Impatience is Expensive

View lanwater's profile

lanwater

3084 posts in 1591 days


#4 posted 10-06-2010 06:20 AM

Thanks Steve. I am affraid it will come to that. I don’t see anyone liking the epoxy idea.

Great blog you wrote there. Good information for fixes.
Impatience has indeed been very expensive for me in time and wood waisted.

-- Abbas, Castro Valley, CA

View mafe's profile (online now)

mafe

9549 posts in 1746 days


#5 posted 10-06-2010 01:32 PM

Ian, I agree with Steve on this, and I acually like these fixes, it brings some personality.
Best thoughts,
Mads

-- Mad F, the fanatical rhykenologist and vintage architect. Democraticwoodworking.

View Bob #2's profile

Bob #2

3808 posts in 2679 days


#6 posted 10-06-2010 04:43 PM

Do it over and do it right. It’s only a piece of wood so far.
You want it to be furniture and your name will be on it.

Lessons learned.

-- A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner

View lanwater's profile

lanwater

3084 posts in 1591 days


#7 posted 10-06-2010 06:39 PM

Mafe, Bob#2, Thanks for the comments.

It looks like that if I miss any “fix” I may attempt, I would have to redo the piece.
Since I have nothing to loose at this point, I think I will try the easiest route first: I will try too “patch it”. That way I practice patching/fixing. If that fails, I will spend another weekend re-cuting and routing. I still have 2 more legs to go anyway.

Thank you all for the ideas!

-- Abbas, Castro Valley, CA

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