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KIEFER KNEE VISE CONSTRUCTION AND SKETCHUP MODEL

14K views 15 replies 13 participants last post by  Clarkie  
#1 ·
KIEFER KNEE VISE CONSTRUCTION AND SKETCHUP MODEL

Here is the blog on how I made the new vise in pictures and a SKETCHUP model that you can download and play with .
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/108195
The SKETCHUP model was done by LUMBER PUNK /LUKE and he deserves a BIG Thank you from us for donating his time to create the model .

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=u3e3dad6a-12ff-45cf-b376-0cd8ca9af4a4
Also a Big Thank you to Paul/Shipwright for the maquetry logo .
Here is the video link .
This vise started to come to life with a full size drawing on a piece of plywood
Image

This served as a good way to build the components as I could place them on the plywood and confirm the angles and dimensions .
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

These are the steps I took to build the laminated beam from plywood strips layer by layer .
There are three pieces that make up the triangular beam which I glued up and trimmed up on the table saw and then assembled .I left a dado in the upper beam portion for the threaded rod and confirmed the fit with a cut in half lengthways joiner nut .
The next step was to build the post /leg which I made from some construction grade pine that was nice and dry since it has been in the shop for a couple of years .
Image

Image

Image

Image


The post/leg is made up of three layers two outside ones and the blocks in the centre which carry and guide the beam .
The upper and centre blocks have hardwood glued to them on the faces that the beam slides on and the hardwood is shaped at an angle to allow the beam to tip up and slide .
Again I confirmed the function in place by test fitting the beam in the post/leg with the rod installed and then again with the second outside layer glued on.The post/leg is only glued together same as the beam and no metal fasteners were used .
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


Next is the guide block with the half joiner nut .
The block is again made from pine with a hardwood layer glued to is as a wear surface .
I laid out the location of the pocket for the nut which is about 9" back from the post and drilled and chiseled it out using the nut face as a guide for the chisel making it easy to get the proper angle .
A dado is cut about 7/8 wide and 38" or so deep to allow the rod to slide without touching the block.
The alignment is somewhat critical in the way that it should be parallel that is the reason I used two washers between the bottom of the dado and the rod and magnets and wadhers between the sides and rod .
this ensures that the rod will properly engage at any point of it's travel into the nut and also will not catch on the nut when the beam is tipped to slide freely .
The nut is glued in the pocket with epoxy glue and lined up using the threaded rod and washers held together with some magnets and a couple of washers under the rod to ensure proper parallel alignment .
The nut is also drilled to below the thread line accept two screws once the glue had set .
This is the quick release mechanismin a nut shelland all there is to it .

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


Here is the block installed and some pictures of the beam assembly fitted with the rod and the hand wheel with the hub and nut and retainer washer .
The chop is a refurbished item that I beefed up at the bottom for the pin hole .
All straight forward stuff to make .
Watch the video on this vise that gives more info on how it operates and I am always happy to answer questions just send me a PM or post it as a comment .

I Thank you for taking a look .

Klaus
 

Attachments

#2 ·
KIEFER KNEE VISE CONSTRUCTION AND SKETCHUP MODEL

Here is the blog on how I made the new vise in pictures and a SKETCHUP model that you can download and play with .
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/108195
The SKETCHUP model was done by LUMBER PUNK /LUKE and he deserves a BIG Thank you from us for donating his time to create the model .

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=u3e3dad6a-12ff-45cf-b376-0cd8ca9af4a4
Also a Big Thank you to Paul/Shipwright for the maquetry logo .
Here is the video link .
This vise started to come to life with a full size drawing on a piece of plywood
Image

This served as a good way to build the components as I could place them on the plywood and confirm the angles and dimensions .
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

These are the steps I took to build the laminated beam from plywood strips layer by layer .
There are three pieces that make up the triangular beam which I glued up and trimmed up on the table saw and then assembled .I left a dado in the upper beam portion for the threaded rod and confirmed the fit with a cut in half lengthways joiner nut .
The next step was to build the post /leg which I made from some construction grade pine that was nice and dry since it has been in the shop for a couple of years .
Image

Image

Image

Image


The post/leg is made up of three layers two outside ones and the blocks in the centre which carry and guide the beam .
The upper and centre blocks have hardwood glued to them on the faces that the beam slides on and the hardwood is shaped at an angle to allow the beam to tip up and slide .
Again I confirmed the function in place by test fitting the beam in the post/leg with the rod installed and then again with the second outside layer glued on.The post/leg is only glued together same as the beam and no metal fasteners were used .
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


Next is the guide block with the half joiner nut .
The block is again made from pine with a hardwood layer glued to is as a wear surface .
I laid out the location of the pocket for the nut which is about 9" back from the post and drilled and chiseled it out using the nut face as a guide for the chisel making it easy to get the proper angle .
A dado is cut about 7/8 wide and 38" or so deep to allow the rod to slide without touching the block.
The alignment is somewhat critical in the way that it should be parallel that is the reason I used two washers between the bottom of the dado and the rod and magnets and wadhers between the sides and rod .
this ensures that the rod will properly engage at any point of it's travel into the nut and also will not catch on the nut when the beam is tipped to slide freely .
The nut is glued in the pocket with epoxy glue and lined up using the threaded rod and washers held together with some magnets and a couple of washers under the rod to ensure proper parallel alignment .
The nut is also drilled to below the thread line accept two screws once the glue had set .
This is the quick release mechanismin a nut shelland all there is to it .

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


Here is the block installed and some pictures of the beam assembly fitted with the rod and the hand wheel with the hub and nut and retainer washer .
The chop is a refurbished item that I beefed up at the bottom for the pin hole .
All straight forward stuff to make .
Watch the video on this vise that gives more info on how it operates and I am always happy to answer questions just send me a PM or post it as a comment .

I Thank you for taking a look .

Klaus
Well that's pretty comprehensive!
If you can't make one from this fine set of instructions, sell your tools.
Really well presented Klaus, and of course, great idea in the first place.
 

Attachments

#3 ·
KIEFER KNEE VISE CONSTRUCTION AND SKETCHUP MODEL

Here is the blog on how I made the new vise in pictures and a SKETCHUP model that you can download and play with .
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/108195
The SKETCHUP model was done by LUMBER PUNK /LUKE and he deserves a BIG Thank you from us for donating his time to create the model .

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=u3e3dad6a-12ff-45cf-b376-0cd8ca9af4a4
Also a Big Thank you to Paul/Shipwright for the maquetry logo .
Here is the video link .
This vise started to come to life with a full size drawing on a piece of plywood
Image

This served as a good way to build the components as I could place them on the plywood and confirm the angles and dimensions .
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

These are the steps I took to build the laminated beam from plywood strips layer by layer .
There are three pieces that make up the triangular beam which I glued up and trimmed up on the table saw and then assembled .I left a dado in the upper beam portion for the threaded rod and confirmed the fit with a cut in half lengthways joiner nut .
The next step was to build the post /leg which I made from some construction grade pine that was nice and dry since it has been in the shop for a couple of years .
Image

Image

Image

Image


The post/leg is made up of three layers two outside ones and the blocks in the centre which carry and guide the beam .
The upper and centre blocks have hardwood glued to them on the faces that the beam slides on and the hardwood is shaped at an angle to allow the beam to tip up and slide .
Again I confirmed the function in place by test fitting the beam in the post/leg with the rod installed and then again with the second outside layer glued on.The post/leg is only glued together same as the beam and no metal fasteners were used .
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


Next is the guide block with the half joiner nut .
The block is again made from pine with a hardwood layer glued to is as a wear surface .
I laid out the location of the pocket for the nut which is about 9" back from the post and drilled and chiseled it out using the nut face as a guide for the chisel making it easy to get the proper angle .
A dado is cut about 7/8 wide and 38" or so deep to allow the rod to slide without touching the block.
The alignment is somewhat critical in the way that it should be parallel that is the reason I used two washers between the bottom of the dado and the rod and magnets and wadhers between the sides and rod .
this ensures that the rod will properly engage at any point of it's travel into the nut and also will not catch on the nut when the beam is tipped to slide freely .
The nut is glued in the pocket with epoxy glue and lined up using the threaded rod and washers held together with some magnets and a couple of washers under the rod to ensure proper parallel alignment .
The nut is also drilled to below the thread line accept two screws once the glue had set .
This is the quick release mechanismin a nut shelland all there is to it .

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


Here is the block installed and some pictures of the beam assembly fitted with the rod and the hand wheel with the hub and nut and retainer washer .
The chop is a refurbished item that I beefed up at the bottom for the pin hole .
All straight forward stuff to make .
Watch the video on this vise that gives more info on how it operates and I am always happy to answer questions just send me a PM or post it as a comment .

I Thank you for taking a look .

Klaus
Really nice detail on the construction. That took a lot of work and you did a fine job of it!!

Cheers, Jim
 

Attachments

#4 ·
KIEFER KNEE VISE CONSTRUCTION AND SKETCHUP MODEL

Here is the blog on how I made the new vise in pictures and a SKETCHUP model that you can download and play with .
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/108195
The SKETCHUP model was done by LUMBER PUNK /LUKE and he deserves a BIG Thank you from us for donating his time to create the model .

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=u3e3dad6a-12ff-45cf-b376-0cd8ca9af4a4
Also a Big Thank you to Paul/Shipwright for the maquetry logo .
Here is the video link .
This vise started to come to life with a full size drawing on a piece of plywood
Image

This served as a good way to build the components as I could place them on the plywood and confirm the angles and dimensions .
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

These are the steps I took to build the laminated beam from plywood strips layer by layer .
There are three pieces that make up the triangular beam which I glued up and trimmed up on the table saw and then assembled .I left a dado in the upper beam portion for the threaded rod and confirmed the fit with a cut in half lengthways joiner nut .
The next step was to build the post /leg which I made from some construction grade pine that was nice and dry since it has been in the shop for a couple of years .
Image

Image

Image

Image


The post/leg is made up of three layers two outside ones and the blocks in the centre which carry and guide the beam .
The upper and centre blocks have hardwood glued to them on the faces that the beam slides on and the hardwood is shaped at an angle to allow the beam to tip up and slide .
Again I confirmed the function in place by test fitting the beam in the post/leg with the rod installed and then again with the second outside layer glued on.The post/leg is only glued together same as the beam and no metal fasteners were used .
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


Next is the guide block with the half joiner nut .
The block is again made from pine with a hardwood layer glued to is as a wear surface .
I laid out the location of the pocket for the nut which is about 9" back from the post and drilled and chiseled it out using the nut face as a guide for the chisel making it easy to get the proper angle .
A dado is cut about 7/8 wide and 38" or so deep to allow the rod to slide without touching the block.
The alignment is somewhat critical in the way that it should be parallel that is the reason I used two washers between the bottom of the dado and the rod and magnets and wadhers between the sides and rod .
this ensures that the rod will properly engage at any point of it's travel into the nut and also will not catch on the nut when the beam is tipped to slide freely .
The nut is glued in the pocket with epoxy glue and lined up using the threaded rod and washers held together with some magnets and a couple of washers under the rod to ensure proper parallel alignment .
The nut is also drilled to below the thread line accept two screws once the glue had set .
This is the quick release mechanismin a nut shelland all there is to it .

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


Here is the block installed and some pictures of the beam assembly fitted with the rod and the hand wheel with the hub and nut and retainer washer .
The chop is a refurbished item that I beefed up at the bottom for the pin hole .
All straight forward stuff to make .
Watch the video on this vise that gives more info on how it operates and I am always happy to answer questions just send me a PM or post it as a comment .

I Thank you for taking a look .

Klaus
Klaus the blog is great!

As I said "Making it simple enough so even I can do it." LOL!

Thank you for this major effort. I know it was a challenge. It will help tremendously. I like that you used a story board for the layout. An "oh dah, oh yeah moment for me.

Paul,
For the most part it is seeing the process.

I am not going to sell my tools! (Maybe a couple so I have more shop space. LOL!)

Klaus,
The series with the joiner nut is pretty obvious, and it might need some more clarification regarding the eighteenth picture down just before showing the alignment with the speed square. I think it may require a little more verbal description? It is key to the action of the movement. ( I actually haven't seen a half joiner nut before.)
Thanks,
 

Attachments

#5 ·
KIEFER KNEE VISE CONSTRUCTION AND SKETCHUP MODEL

Here is the blog on how I made the new vise in pictures and a SKETCHUP model that you can download and play with .
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/108195
The SKETCHUP model was done by LUMBER PUNK /LUKE and he deserves a BIG Thank you from us for donating his time to create the model .

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=u3e3dad6a-12ff-45cf-b376-0cd8ca9af4a4
Also a Big Thank you to Paul/Shipwright for the maquetry logo .
Here is the video link .
This vise started to come to life with a full size drawing on a piece of plywood
Image

This served as a good way to build the components as I could place them on the plywood and confirm the angles and dimensions .
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

These are the steps I took to build the laminated beam from plywood strips layer by layer .
There are three pieces that make up the triangular beam which I glued up and trimmed up on the table saw and then assembled .I left a dado in the upper beam portion for the threaded rod and confirmed the fit with a cut in half lengthways joiner nut .
The next step was to build the post /leg which I made from some construction grade pine that was nice and dry since it has been in the shop for a couple of years .
Image

Image

Image

Image


The post/leg is made up of three layers two outside ones and the blocks in the centre which carry and guide the beam .
The upper and centre blocks have hardwood glued to them on the faces that the beam slides on and the hardwood is shaped at an angle to allow the beam to tip up and slide .
Again I confirmed the function in place by test fitting the beam in the post/leg with the rod installed and then again with the second outside layer glued on.The post/leg is only glued together same as the beam and no metal fasteners were used .
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


Next is the guide block with the half joiner nut .
The block is again made from pine with a hardwood layer glued to is as a wear surface .
I laid out the location of the pocket for the nut which is about 9" back from the post and drilled and chiseled it out using the nut face as a guide for the chisel making it easy to get the proper angle .
A dado is cut about 7/8 wide and 38" or so deep to allow the rod to slide without touching the block.
The alignment is somewhat critical in the way that it should be parallel that is the reason I used two washers between the bottom of the dado and the rod and magnets and wadhers between the sides and rod .
this ensures that the rod will properly engage at any point of it's travel into the nut and also will not catch on the nut when the beam is tipped to slide freely .
The nut is glued in the pocket with epoxy glue and lined up using the threaded rod and washers held together with some magnets and a couple of washers under the rod to ensure proper parallel alignment .
The nut is also drilled to below the thread line accept two screws once the glue had set .
This is the quick release mechanismin a nut shelland all there is to it .

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


Here is the block installed and some pictures of the beam assembly fitted with the rod and the hand wheel with the hub and nut and retainer washer .
The chop is a refurbished item that I beefed up at the bottom for the pin hole .
All straight forward stuff to make .
Watch the video on this vise that gives more info on how it operates and I am always happy to answer questions just send me a PM or post it as a comment .

I Thank you for taking a look .

Klaus
Very clear and concise.
 

Attachments

#6 ·
KIEFER KNEE VISE CONSTRUCTION AND SKETCHUP MODEL

Here is the blog on how I made the new vise in pictures and a SKETCHUP model that you can download and play with .
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/108195
The SKETCHUP model was done by LUMBER PUNK /LUKE and he deserves a BIG Thank you from us for donating his time to create the model .

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=u3e3dad6a-12ff-45cf-b376-0cd8ca9af4a4
Also a Big Thank you to Paul/Shipwright for the maquetry logo .
Here is the video link .
This vise started to come to life with a full size drawing on a piece of plywood
Image

This served as a good way to build the components as I could place them on the plywood and confirm the angles and dimensions .
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

These are the steps I took to build the laminated beam from plywood strips layer by layer .
There are three pieces that make up the triangular beam which I glued up and trimmed up on the table saw and then assembled .I left a dado in the upper beam portion for the threaded rod and confirmed the fit with a cut in half lengthways joiner nut .
The next step was to build the post /leg which I made from some construction grade pine that was nice and dry since it has been in the shop for a couple of years .
Image

Image

Image

Image


The post/leg is made up of three layers two outside ones and the blocks in the centre which carry and guide the beam .
The upper and centre blocks have hardwood glued to them on the faces that the beam slides on and the hardwood is shaped at an angle to allow the beam to tip up and slide .
Again I confirmed the function in place by test fitting the beam in the post/leg with the rod installed and then again with the second outside layer glued on.The post/leg is only glued together same as the beam and no metal fasteners were used .
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


Next is the guide block with the half joiner nut .
The block is again made from pine with a hardwood layer glued to is as a wear surface .
I laid out the location of the pocket for the nut which is about 9" back from the post and drilled and chiseled it out using the nut face as a guide for the chisel making it easy to get the proper angle .
A dado is cut about 7/8 wide and 38" or so deep to allow the rod to slide without touching the block.
The alignment is somewhat critical in the way that it should be parallel that is the reason I used two washers between the bottom of the dado and the rod and magnets and wadhers between the sides and rod .
this ensures that the rod will properly engage at any point of it's travel into the nut and also will not catch on the nut when the beam is tipped to slide freely .
The nut is glued in the pocket with epoxy glue and lined up using the threaded rod and washers held together with some magnets and a couple of washers under the rod to ensure proper parallel alignment .
The nut is also drilled to below the thread line accept two screws once the glue had set .
This is the quick release mechanismin a nut shelland all there is to it .

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


Here is the block installed and some pictures of the beam assembly fitted with the rod and the hand wheel with the hub and nut and retainer washer .
The chop is a refurbished item that I beefed up at the bottom for the pin hole .
All straight forward stuff to make .
Watch the video on this vise that gives more info on how it operates and I am always happy to answer questions just send me a PM or post it as a comment .

I Thank you for taking a look .

Klaus
Thanks to Luke for the SU Drawing. Thanks for the comprehensive pictures.
 

Attachments

#7 ·
KIEFER KNEE VISE CONSTRUCTION AND SKETCHUP MODEL

Here is the blog on how I made the new vise in pictures and a SKETCHUP model that you can download and play with .
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/108195
The SKETCHUP model was done by LUMBER PUNK /LUKE and he deserves a BIG Thank you from us for donating his time to create the model .

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=u3e3dad6a-12ff-45cf-b376-0cd8ca9af4a4
Also a Big Thank you to Paul/Shipwright for the maquetry logo .
Here is the video link .
This vise started to come to life with a full size drawing on a piece of plywood
Image

This served as a good way to build the components as I could place them on the plywood and confirm the angles and dimensions .
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

These are the steps I took to build the laminated beam from plywood strips layer by layer .
There are three pieces that make up the triangular beam which I glued up and trimmed up on the table saw and then assembled .I left a dado in the upper beam portion for the threaded rod and confirmed the fit with a cut in half lengthways joiner nut .
The next step was to build the post /leg which I made from some construction grade pine that was nice and dry since it has been in the shop for a couple of years .
Image

Image

Image

Image


The post/leg is made up of three layers two outside ones and the blocks in the centre which carry and guide the beam .
The upper and centre blocks have hardwood glued to them on the faces that the beam slides on and the hardwood is shaped at an angle to allow the beam to tip up and slide .
Again I confirmed the function in place by test fitting the beam in the post/leg with the rod installed and then again with the second outside layer glued on.The post/leg is only glued together same as the beam and no metal fasteners were used .
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


Next is the guide block with the half joiner nut .
The block is again made from pine with a hardwood layer glued to is as a wear surface .
I laid out the location of the pocket for the nut which is about 9" back from the post and drilled and chiseled it out using the nut face as a guide for the chisel making it easy to get the proper angle .
A dado is cut about 7/8 wide and 38" or so deep to allow the rod to slide without touching the block.
The alignment is somewhat critical in the way that it should be parallel that is the reason I used two washers between the bottom of the dado and the rod and magnets and wadhers between the sides and rod .
this ensures that the rod will properly engage at any point of it's travel into the nut and also will not catch on the nut when the beam is tipped to slide freely .
The nut is glued in the pocket with epoxy glue and lined up using the threaded rod and washers held together with some magnets and a couple of washers under the rod to ensure proper parallel alignment .
The nut is also drilled to below the thread line accept two screws once the glue had set .
This is the quick release mechanismin a nut shelland all there is to it .

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


Here is the block installed and some pictures of the beam assembly fitted with the rod and the hand wheel with the hub and nut and retainer washer .
The chop is a refurbished item that I beefed up at the bottom for the pin hole .
All straight forward stuff to make .
Watch the video on this vise that gives more info on how it operates and I am always happy to answer questions just send me a PM or post it as a comment .

I Thank you for taking a look .

Klaus
Even I understand it now. Like putting a bike together. Thanks for spelling it out for us Klaus.
 

Attachments

#8 ·
KIEFER KNEE VISE CONSTRUCTION AND SKETCHUP MODEL

Here is the blog on how I made the new vise in pictures and a SKETCHUP model that you can download and play with .
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/108195
The SKETCHUP model was done by LUMBER PUNK /LUKE and he deserves a BIG Thank you from us for donating his time to create the model .

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=u3e3dad6a-12ff-45cf-b376-0cd8ca9af4a4
Also a Big Thank you to Paul/Shipwright for the maquetry logo .
Here is the video link .
This vise started to come to life with a full size drawing on a piece of plywood
Image

This served as a good way to build the components as I could place them on the plywood and confirm the angles and dimensions .
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

These are the steps I took to build the laminated beam from plywood strips layer by layer .
There are three pieces that make up the triangular beam which I glued up and trimmed up on the table saw and then assembled .I left a dado in the upper beam portion for the threaded rod and confirmed the fit with a cut in half lengthways joiner nut .
The next step was to build the post /leg which I made from some construction grade pine that was nice and dry since it has been in the shop for a couple of years .
Image

Image

Image

Image


The post/leg is made up of three layers two outside ones and the blocks in the centre which carry and guide the beam .
The upper and centre blocks have hardwood glued to them on the faces that the beam slides on and the hardwood is shaped at an angle to allow the beam to tip up and slide .
Again I confirmed the function in place by test fitting the beam in the post/leg with the rod installed and then again with the second outside layer glued on.The post/leg is only glued together same as the beam and no metal fasteners were used .
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


Next is the guide block with the half joiner nut .
The block is again made from pine with a hardwood layer glued to is as a wear surface .
I laid out the location of the pocket for the nut which is about 9" back from the post and drilled and chiseled it out using the nut face as a guide for the chisel making it easy to get the proper angle .
A dado is cut about 7/8 wide and 38" or so deep to allow the rod to slide without touching the block.
The alignment is somewhat critical in the way that it should be parallel that is the reason I used two washers between the bottom of the dado and the rod and magnets and wadhers between the sides and rod .
this ensures that the rod will properly engage at any point of it's travel into the nut and also will not catch on the nut when the beam is tipped to slide freely .
The nut is glued in the pocket with epoxy glue and lined up using the threaded rod and washers held together with some magnets and a couple of washers under the rod to ensure proper parallel alignment .
The nut is also drilled to below the thread line accept two screws once the glue had set .
This is the quick release mechanismin a nut shelland all there is to it .

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


Here is the block installed and some pictures of the beam assembly fitted with the rod and the hand wheel with the hub and nut and retainer washer .
The chop is a refurbished item that I beefed up at the bottom for the pin hole .
All straight forward stuff to make .
Watch the video on this vise that gives more info on how it operates and I am always happy to answer questions just send me a PM or post it as a comment .

I Thank you for taking a look .

Klaus
Nice one Klaus! Pleasure working with you.
 

Attachments

#9 ·
KIEFER KNEE VISE CONSTRUCTION AND SKETCHUP MODEL

Here is the blog on how I made the new vise in pictures and a SKETCHUP model that you can download and play with .
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/108195
The SKETCHUP model was done by LUMBER PUNK /LUKE and he deserves a BIG Thank you from us for donating his time to create the model .

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=u3e3dad6a-12ff-45cf-b376-0cd8ca9af4a4
Also a Big Thank you to Paul/Shipwright for the maquetry logo .
Here is the video link .
This vise started to come to life with a full size drawing on a piece of plywood
Image

This served as a good way to build the components as I could place them on the plywood and confirm the angles and dimensions .
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

These are the steps I took to build the laminated beam from plywood strips layer by layer .
There are three pieces that make up the triangular beam which I glued up and trimmed up on the table saw and then assembled .I left a dado in the upper beam portion for the threaded rod and confirmed the fit with a cut in half lengthways joiner nut .
The next step was to build the post /leg which I made from some construction grade pine that was nice and dry since it has been in the shop for a couple of years .
Image

Image

Image

Image


The post/leg is made up of three layers two outside ones and the blocks in the centre which carry and guide the beam .
The upper and centre blocks have hardwood glued to them on the faces that the beam slides on and the hardwood is shaped at an angle to allow the beam to tip up and slide .
Again I confirmed the function in place by test fitting the beam in the post/leg with the rod installed and then again with the second outside layer glued on.The post/leg is only glued together same as the beam and no metal fasteners were used .
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


Next is the guide block with the half joiner nut .
The block is again made from pine with a hardwood layer glued to is as a wear surface .
I laid out the location of the pocket for the nut which is about 9" back from the post and drilled and chiseled it out using the nut face as a guide for the chisel making it easy to get the proper angle .
A dado is cut about 7/8 wide and 38" or so deep to allow the rod to slide without touching the block.
The alignment is somewhat critical in the way that it should be parallel that is the reason I used two washers between the bottom of the dado and the rod and magnets and wadhers between the sides and rod .
this ensures that the rod will properly engage at any point of it's travel into the nut and also will not catch on the nut when the beam is tipped to slide freely .
The nut is glued in the pocket with epoxy glue and lined up using the threaded rod and washers held together with some magnets and a couple of washers under the rod to ensure proper parallel alignment .
The nut is also drilled to below the thread line accept two screws once the glue had set .
This is the quick release mechanismin a nut shelland all there is to it .

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


Here is the block installed and some pictures of the beam assembly fitted with the rod and the hand wheel with the hub and nut and retainer washer .
The chop is a refurbished item that I beefed up at the bottom for the pin hole .
All straight forward stuff to make .
Watch the video on this vise that gives more info on how it operates and I am always happy to answer questions just send me a PM or post it as a comment .

I Thank you for taking a look .

Klaus
Klaus, I don't know if I can build a vice like that but the video really helped. The grip on the sheet of paper is impressive. I don't know how you come up with your brilliant solutions but brilliant they are. Thank you very much for sharing.
 

Attachments

#10 ·
KIEFER KNEE VISE CONSTRUCTION AND SKETCHUP MODEL

Here is the blog on how I made the new vise in pictures and a SKETCHUP model that you can download and play with .
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/108195
The SKETCHUP model was done by LUMBER PUNK /LUKE and he deserves a BIG Thank you from us for donating his time to create the model .

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=u3e3dad6a-12ff-45cf-b376-0cd8ca9af4a4
Also a Big Thank you to Paul/Shipwright for the maquetry logo .
Here is the video link .
This vise started to come to life with a full size drawing on a piece of plywood
Image

This served as a good way to build the components as I could place them on the plywood and confirm the angles and dimensions .
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

These are the steps I took to build the laminated beam from plywood strips layer by layer .
There are three pieces that make up the triangular beam which I glued up and trimmed up on the table saw and then assembled .I left a dado in the upper beam portion for the threaded rod and confirmed the fit with a cut in half lengthways joiner nut .
The next step was to build the post /leg which I made from some construction grade pine that was nice and dry since it has been in the shop for a couple of years .
Image

Image

Image

Image


The post/leg is made up of three layers two outside ones and the blocks in the centre which carry and guide the beam .
The upper and centre blocks have hardwood glued to them on the faces that the beam slides on and the hardwood is shaped at an angle to allow the beam to tip up and slide .
Again I confirmed the function in place by test fitting the beam in the post/leg with the rod installed and then again with the second outside layer glued on.The post/leg is only glued together same as the beam and no metal fasteners were used .
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


Next is the guide block with the half joiner nut .
The block is again made from pine with a hardwood layer glued to is as a wear surface .
I laid out the location of the pocket for the nut which is about 9" back from the post and drilled and chiseled it out using the nut face as a guide for the chisel making it easy to get the proper angle .
A dado is cut about 7/8 wide and 38" or so deep to allow the rod to slide without touching the block.
The alignment is somewhat critical in the way that it should be parallel that is the reason I used two washers between the bottom of the dado and the rod and magnets and wadhers between the sides and rod .
this ensures that the rod will properly engage at any point of it's travel into the nut and also will not catch on the nut when the beam is tipped to slide freely .
The nut is glued in the pocket with epoxy glue and lined up using the threaded rod and washers held together with some magnets and a couple of washers under the rod to ensure proper parallel alignment .
The nut is also drilled to below the thread line accept two screws once the glue had set .
This is the quick release mechanismin a nut shelland all there is to it .

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


Here is the block installed and some pictures of the beam assembly fitted with the rod and the hand wheel with the hub and nut and retainer washer .
The chop is a refurbished item that I beefed up at the bottom for the pin hole .
All straight forward stuff to make .
Watch the video on this vise that gives more info on how it operates and I am always happy to answer questions just send me a PM or post it as a comment .

I Thank you for taking a look .

Klaus
Thanks for the kind comments guys and I much appreciate them as it makes it worth while to spend the time to do this blog .
I have added a little more explanation in regards to the rod alignment and hope that clarifies it .
Don't forget to send a PM to thank him for his contribution in this as he made a great effort to make this simple vise more visible for all of us .

Thanks

Klaus
 

Attachments

#11 ·
KIEFER KNEE VISE CONSTRUCTION AND SKETCHUP MODEL

Here is the blog on how I made the new vise in pictures and a SKETCHUP model that you can download and play with .
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/108195
The SKETCHUP model was done by LUMBER PUNK /LUKE and he deserves a BIG Thank you from us for donating his time to create the model .

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=u3e3dad6a-12ff-45cf-b376-0cd8ca9af4a4
Also a Big Thank you to Paul/Shipwright for the maquetry logo .
Here is the video link .
This vise started to come to life with a full size drawing on a piece of plywood
Image

This served as a good way to build the components as I could place them on the plywood and confirm the angles and dimensions .
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

These are the steps I took to build the laminated beam from plywood strips layer by layer .
There are three pieces that make up the triangular beam which I glued up and trimmed up on the table saw and then assembled .I left a dado in the upper beam portion for the threaded rod and confirmed the fit with a cut in half lengthways joiner nut .
The next step was to build the post /leg which I made from some construction grade pine that was nice and dry since it has been in the shop for a couple of years .
Image

Image

Image

Image


The post/leg is made up of three layers two outside ones and the blocks in the centre which carry and guide the beam .
The upper and centre blocks have hardwood glued to them on the faces that the beam slides on and the hardwood is shaped at an angle to allow the beam to tip up and slide .
Again I confirmed the function in place by test fitting the beam in the post/leg with the rod installed and then again with the second outside layer glued on.The post/leg is only glued together same as the beam and no metal fasteners were used .
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


Next is the guide block with the half joiner nut .
The block is again made from pine with a hardwood layer glued to is as a wear surface .
I laid out the location of the pocket for the nut which is about 9" back from the post and drilled and chiseled it out using the nut face as a guide for the chisel making it easy to get the proper angle .
A dado is cut about 7/8 wide and 38" or so deep to allow the rod to slide without touching the block.
The alignment is somewhat critical in the way that it should be parallel that is the reason I used two washers between the bottom of the dado and the rod and magnets and wadhers between the sides and rod .
this ensures that the rod will properly engage at any point of it's travel into the nut and also will not catch on the nut when the beam is tipped to slide freely .
The nut is glued in the pocket with epoxy glue and lined up using the threaded rod and washers held together with some magnets and a couple of washers under the rod to ensure proper parallel alignment .
The nut is also drilled to below the thread line accept two screws once the glue had set .
This is the quick release mechanismin a nut shelland all there is to it .

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


Here is the block installed and some pictures of the beam assembly fitted with the rod and the hand wheel with the hub and nut and retainer washer .
The chop is a refurbished item that I beefed up at the bottom for the pin hole .
All straight forward stuff to make .
Watch the video on this vise that gives more info on how it operates and I am always happy to answer questions just send me a PM or post it as a comment .

I Thank you for taking a look .

Klaus
Great work Klaus,
I envy the shop time you have….............. perhaps one day!

David
 

Attachments

#12 ·
KIEFER KNEE VISE CONSTRUCTION AND SKETCHUP MODEL

Here is the blog on how I made the new vise in pictures and a SKETCHUP model that you can download and play with .
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/108195
The SKETCHUP model was done by LUMBER PUNK /LUKE and he deserves a BIG Thank you from us for donating his time to create the model .

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=u3e3dad6a-12ff-45cf-b376-0cd8ca9af4a4
Also a Big Thank you to Paul/Shipwright for the maquetry logo .
Here is the video link .
This vise started to come to life with a full size drawing on a piece of plywood
Image

This served as a good way to build the components as I could place them on the plywood and confirm the angles and dimensions .
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

These are the steps I took to build the laminated beam from plywood strips layer by layer .
There are three pieces that make up the triangular beam which I glued up and trimmed up on the table saw and then assembled .I left a dado in the upper beam portion for the threaded rod and confirmed the fit with a cut in half lengthways joiner nut .
The next step was to build the post /leg which I made from some construction grade pine that was nice and dry since it has been in the shop for a couple of years .
Image

Image

Image

Image


The post/leg is made up of three layers two outside ones and the blocks in the centre which carry and guide the beam .
The upper and centre blocks have hardwood glued to them on the faces that the beam slides on and the hardwood is shaped at an angle to allow the beam to tip up and slide .
Again I confirmed the function in place by test fitting the beam in the post/leg with the rod installed and then again with the second outside layer glued on.The post/leg is only glued together same as the beam and no metal fasteners were used .
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


Next is the guide block with the half joiner nut .
The block is again made from pine with a hardwood layer glued to is as a wear surface .
I laid out the location of the pocket for the nut which is about 9" back from the post and drilled and chiseled it out using the nut face as a guide for the chisel making it easy to get the proper angle .
A dado is cut about 7/8 wide and 38" or so deep to allow the rod to slide without touching the block.
The alignment is somewhat critical in the way that it should be parallel that is the reason I used two washers between the bottom of the dado and the rod and magnets and wadhers between the sides and rod .
this ensures that the rod will properly engage at any point of it's travel into the nut and also will not catch on the nut when the beam is tipped to slide freely .
The nut is glued in the pocket with epoxy glue and lined up using the threaded rod and washers held together with some magnets and a couple of washers under the rod to ensure proper parallel alignment .
The nut is also drilled to below the thread line accept two screws once the glue had set .
This is the quick release mechanismin a nut shelland all there is to it .

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


Here is the block installed and some pictures of the beam assembly fitted with the rod and the hand wheel with the hub and nut and retainer washer .
The chop is a refurbished item that I beefed up at the bottom for the pin hole .
All straight forward stuff to make .
Watch the video on this vise that gives more info on how it operates and I am always happy to answer questions just send me a PM or post it as a comment .

I Thank you for taking a look .

Klaus
If anyone is interested if you turn on the layer "Dims" in the layers window of the sketchup model most of the dimensions are laid out. It is best to click in on each component and hide rest of model for better visibility as they crowd the model something terrible.
 

Attachments

#13 ·
KIEFER KNEE VISE CONSTRUCTION AND SKETCHUP MODEL

Here is the blog on how I made the new vise in pictures and a SKETCHUP model that you can download and play with .
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/108195
The SKETCHUP model was done by LUMBER PUNK /LUKE and he deserves a BIG Thank you from us for donating his time to create the model .

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=u3e3dad6a-12ff-45cf-b376-0cd8ca9af4a4
Also a Big Thank you to Paul/Shipwright for the maquetry logo .
Here is the video link .
This vise started to come to life with a full size drawing on a piece of plywood
Image

This served as a good way to build the components as I could place them on the plywood and confirm the angles and dimensions .
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

These are the steps I took to build the laminated beam from plywood strips layer by layer .
There are three pieces that make up the triangular beam which I glued up and trimmed up on the table saw and then assembled .I left a dado in the upper beam portion for the threaded rod and confirmed the fit with a cut in half lengthways joiner nut .
The next step was to build the post /leg which I made from some construction grade pine that was nice and dry since it has been in the shop for a couple of years .
Image

Image

Image

Image


The post/leg is made up of three layers two outside ones and the blocks in the centre which carry and guide the beam .
The upper and centre blocks have hardwood glued to them on the faces that the beam slides on and the hardwood is shaped at an angle to allow the beam to tip up and slide .
Again I confirmed the function in place by test fitting the beam in the post/leg with the rod installed and then again with the second outside layer glued on.The post/leg is only glued together same as the beam and no metal fasteners were used .
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


Next is the guide block with the half joiner nut .
The block is again made from pine with a hardwood layer glued to is as a wear surface .
I laid out the location of the pocket for the nut which is about 9" back from the post and drilled and chiseled it out using the nut face as a guide for the chisel making it easy to get the proper angle .
A dado is cut about 7/8 wide and 38" or so deep to allow the rod to slide without touching the block.
The alignment is somewhat critical in the way that it should be parallel that is the reason I used two washers between the bottom of the dado and the rod and magnets and wadhers between the sides and rod .
this ensures that the rod will properly engage at any point of it's travel into the nut and also will not catch on the nut when the beam is tipped to slide freely .
The nut is glued in the pocket with epoxy glue and lined up using the threaded rod and washers held together with some magnets and a couple of washers under the rod to ensure proper parallel alignment .
The nut is also drilled to below the thread line accept two screws once the glue had set .
This is the quick release mechanismin a nut shelland all there is to it .

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


Here is the block installed and some pictures of the beam assembly fitted with the rod and the hand wheel with the hub and nut and retainer washer .
The chop is a refurbished item that I beefed up at the bottom for the pin hole .
All straight forward stuff to make .
Watch the video on this vise that gives more info on how it operates and I am always happy to answer questions just send me a PM or post it as a comment .

I Thank you for taking a look .

Klaus
Gr8ly detailed how-to Klaus
 

Attachments

#14 ·
KIEFER KNEE VISE CONSTRUCTION AND SKETCHUP MODEL

Here is the blog on how I made the new vise in pictures and a SKETCHUP model that you can download and play with .
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/108195
The SKETCHUP model was done by LUMBER PUNK /LUKE and he deserves a BIG Thank you from us for donating his time to create the model .

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=u3e3dad6a-12ff-45cf-b376-0cd8ca9af4a4
Also a Big Thank you to Paul/Shipwright for the maquetry logo .
Here is the video link .
This vise started to come to life with a full size drawing on a piece of plywood
Image

This served as a good way to build the components as I could place them on the plywood and confirm the angles and dimensions .
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

These are the steps I took to build the laminated beam from plywood strips layer by layer .
There are three pieces that make up the triangular beam which I glued up and trimmed up on the table saw and then assembled .I left a dado in the upper beam portion for the threaded rod and confirmed the fit with a cut in half lengthways joiner nut .
The next step was to build the post /leg which I made from some construction grade pine that was nice and dry since it has been in the shop for a couple of years .
Image

Image

Image

Image


The post/leg is made up of three layers two outside ones and the blocks in the centre which carry and guide the beam .
The upper and centre blocks have hardwood glued to them on the faces that the beam slides on and the hardwood is shaped at an angle to allow the beam to tip up and slide .
Again I confirmed the function in place by test fitting the beam in the post/leg with the rod installed and then again with the second outside layer glued on.The post/leg is only glued together same as the beam and no metal fasteners were used .
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


Next is the guide block with the half joiner nut .
The block is again made from pine with a hardwood layer glued to is as a wear surface .
I laid out the location of the pocket for the nut which is about 9" back from the post and drilled and chiseled it out using the nut face as a guide for the chisel making it easy to get the proper angle .
A dado is cut about 7/8 wide and 38" or so deep to allow the rod to slide without touching the block.
The alignment is somewhat critical in the way that it should be parallel that is the reason I used two washers between the bottom of the dado and the rod and magnets and wadhers between the sides and rod .
this ensures that the rod will properly engage at any point of it's travel into the nut and also will not catch on the nut when the beam is tipped to slide freely .
The nut is glued in the pocket with epoxy glue and lined up using the threaded rod and washers held together with some magnets and a couple of washers under the rod to ensure proper parallel alignment .
The nut is also drilled to below the thread line accept two screws once the glue had set .
This is the quick release mechanismin a nut shelland all there is to it .

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


Here is the block installed and some pictures of the beam assembly fitted with the rod and the hand wheel with the hub and nut and retainer washer .
The chop is a refurbished item that I beefed up at the bottom for the pin hole .
All straight forward stuff to make .
Watch the video on this vise that gives more info on how it operates and I am always happy to answer questions just send me a PM or post it as a comment .

I Thank you for taking a look .

Klaus
I'm a new member and blown away by the quality of work being done by everyone, this and other pieces you have done are outstanding, well done. Thanks for this Klaus, nice work. Looking at your YouTube vids informed me about Lumberjocks and ***, so thanks for that too
 

Attachments

#15 ·
KIEFER KNEE VISE CONSTRUCTION AND SKETCHUP MODEL

Here is the blog on how I made the new vise in pictures and a SKETCHUP model that you can download and play with .
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/108195
The SKETCHUP model was done by LUMBER PUNK /LUKE and he deserves a BIG Thank you from us for donating his time to create the model .

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=u3e3dad6a-12ff-45cf-b376-0cd8ca9af4a4
Also a Big Thank you to Paul/Shipwright for the maquetry logo .
Here is the video link .
This vise started to come to life with a full size drawing on a piece of plywood
Image

This served as a good way to build the components as I could place them on the plywood and confirm the angles and dimensions .
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

These are the steps I took to build the laminated beam from plywood strips layer by layer .
There are three pieces that make up the triangular beam which I glued up and trimmed up on the table saw and then assembled .I left a dado in the upper beam portion for the threaded rod and confirmed the fit with a cut in half lengthways joiner nut .
The next step was to build the post /leg which I made from some construction grade pine that was nice and dry since it has been in the shop for a couple of years .
Image

Image

Image

Image


The post/leg is made up of three layers two outside ones and the blocks in the centre which carry and guide the beam .
The upper and centre blocks have hardwood glued to them on the faces that the beam slides on and the hardwood is shaped at an angle to allow the beam to tip up and slide .
Again I confirmed the function in place by test fitting the beam in the post/leg with the rod installed and then again with the second outside layer glued on.The post/leg is only glued together same as the beam and no metal fasteners were used .
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


Next is the guide block with the half joiner nut .
The block is again made from pine with a hardwood layer glued to is as a wear surface .
I laid out the location of the pocket for the nut which is about 9" back from the post and drilled and chiseled it out using the nut face as a guide for the chisel making it easy to get the proper angle .
A dado is cut about 7/8 wide and 38" or so deep to allow the rod to slide without touching the block.
The alignment is somewhat critical in the way that it should be parallel that is the reason I used two washers between the bottom of the dado and the rod and magnets and wadhers between the sides and rod .
this ensures that the rod will properly engage at any point of it's travel into the nut and also will not catch on the nut when the beam is tipped to slide freely .
The nut is glued in the pocket with epoxy glue and lined up using the threaded rod and washers held together with some magnets and a couple of washers under the rod to ensure proper parallel alignment .
The nut is also drilled to below the thread line accept two screws once the glue had set .
This is the quick release mechanismin a nut shelland all there is to it .

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


Here is the block installed and some pictures of the beam assembly fitted with the rod and the hand wheel with the hub and nut and retainer washer .
The chop is a refurbished item that I beefed up at the bottom for the pin hole .
All straight forward stuff to make .
Watch the video on this vise that gives more info on how it operates and I am always happy to answer questions just send me a PM or post it as a comment .

I Thank you for taking a look .

Klaus
Trentham
Welcom and thanks for taking a look.
Hope to see some projects of yours soon .

Klaus
 

Attachments

#16 ·
KIEFER KNEE VISE CONSTRUCTION AND SKETCHUP MODEL

Here is the blog on how I made the new vise in pictures and a SKETCHUP model that you can download and play with .
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/108195
The SKETCHUP model was done by LUMBER PUNK /LUKE and he deserves a BIG Thank you from us for donating his time to create the model .

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=u3e3dad6a-12ff-45cf-b376-0cd8ca9af4a4
Also a Big Thank you to Paul/Shipwright for the maquetry logo .
Here is the video link .
This vise started to come to life with a full size drawing on a piece of plywood
Image

This served as a good way to build the components as I could place them on the plywood and confirm the angles and dimensions .
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

These are the steps I took to build the laminated beam from plywood strips layer by layer .
There are three pieces that make up the triangular beam which I glued up and trimmed up on the table saw and then assembled .I left a dado in the upper beam portion for the threaded rod and confirmed the fit with a cut in half lengthways joiner nut .
The next step was to build the post /leg which I made from some construction grade pine that was nice and dry since it has been in the shop for a couple of years .
Image

Image

Image

Image


The post/leg is made up of three layers two outside ones and the blocks in the centre which carry and guide the beam .
The upper and centre blocks have hardwood glued to them on the faces that the beam slides on and the hardwood is shaped at an angle to allow the beam to tip up and slide .
Again I confirmed the function in place by test fitting the beam in the post/leg with the rod installed and then again with the second outside layer glued on.The post/leg is only glued together same as the beam and no metal fasteners were used .
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


Next is the guide block with the half joiner nut .
The block is again made from pine with a hardwood layer glued to is as a wear surface .
I laid out the location of the pocket for the nut which is about 9" back from the post and drilled and chiseled it out using the nut face as a guide for the chisel making it easy to get the proper angle .
A dado is cut about 7/8 wide and 38" or so deep to allow the rod to slide without touching the block.
The alignment is somewhat critical in the way that it should be parallel that is the reason I used two washers between the bottom of the dado and the rod and magnets and wadhers between the sides and rod .
this ensures that the rod will properly engage at any point of it's travel into the nut and also will not catch on the nut when the beam is tipped to slide freely .
The nut is glued in the pocket with epoxy glue and lined up using the threaded rod and washers held together with some magnets and a couple of washers under the rod to ensure proper parallel alignment .
The nut is also drilled to below the thread line accept two screws once the glue had set .
This is the quick release mechanismin a nut shelland all there is to it .

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


Here is the block installed and some pictures of the beam assembly fitted with the rod and the hand wheel with the hub and nut and retainer washer .
The chop is a refurbished item that I beefed up at the bottom for the pin hole .
All straight forward stuff to make .
Watch the video on this vise that gives more info on how it operates and I am always happy to answer questions just send me a PM or post it as a comment .

I Thank you for taking a look .

Klaus
Fantastic job, well done. I personally like the use of the weight for the hand wheel, more than one purpose for everything.
 

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