I have extended the length of the base to make room for more drawers, and also the length of the top to 96” instead of the WW planned 87” since my material was 10’ long and there seemed to be thought at the time that it would be better suited for what I do…
After a lot of planing and thicknessing (those pieces are really awkward and heavy after awhile) I was ready to start with the glue-ups of the top sections.
Most of the beech pieces I had were between 6” and 8” wide, so after ripping them down to about 4 1/4” with the Festool track saw, I had leftover strips.
Not wanting to waste them, I jointed the edges and glued some up which would be laminated between the full size pieces and will never be seen (unless I plane 2” off the top of my bench).
My jointer knives had a small nick in them, and I used the scraping planes to clean up slight ridges left on the beech before gluing up.
Just wanted to throw in a comment on the differences between the Lie Nielson and Veritas Scraping Planes – for some reason I purchased the LN, forgetting I had the Veritas stored in a drawer in the shop.
Both work well, but the thin blade on the Veritas screeched like a 7 year old girl touching a worm, no matter how I adjusted it. I found them both to be easy to handle yet the LN seemed to perform better, maybe because of the heavier blade? There was definitely less noise…
The next step was to orient the grain on the pieces and create the laminated tops.
I did use dominos to assist with alignment, and for the most part my glue-ups were without drama. I used Titebond III and found it to be quite “thick” and it seemed to create slight gaps between some of the pieces. I did use a number of clamps…
After using a different glue (Gorilla white glue) for the later laminated pieces, I did not have any gaps.
Some flattening and the next step is to apply the end caps.
-- Randy "You are judged as much by the questions you ask as the answers you give..."