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Juniper Table Restoration

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Blog series by junipercanyon updated 02-09-2012 05:30 PM 4 parts 8103 reads 7 comments total

Part 1: Sanding and disassemble

12-19-2011 05:31 PM by junipercanyon | 2 comments »

My great grandparents bought this juniper table in Arizona around 1940. It made its way with them on several moves that eventually settled in Central Oregon. While not much to look at with the yellowed, stained, nicked, and just plain worn out finish, not to mention the failed joinery in 3 corners, I decided it was time for a refinishing of this old table. A 50grit belt sanding makes quick work of the original finish, (being careful not to sand too deep). I am following that with 120grit ...

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Part 2: Plane practice on the underside

01-09-2012 06:44 PM by junipercanyon | 2 comments »

The original maker of this table was much better at applying his time and talents on the side of the table a person can actually see, and left the underside rough cut. There were drips and runs from the original finish, and at some point in the past 70years the table was stored upside down as there were a few water spots and bird poop stains under there. I tried and tried to ignore it and kept telling myself that there was no reason to waste my time on the underside, but I just couldn’t...

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Part 3: Sanding, Planing, Sanding, and a little more Sanding

01-16-2012 06:03 PM by junipercanyon | 2 comments »

The results of many hours planing and sanding…. Once I buy some more sandpaper I will finish this up with probably 400 or 600 grit on the orbital sander, and then give it a critical hand sanding with 800grit. I could easily get away with the finish how it is now with just 220grit and hand sanded with 320grit, but I want to see if its worth the effort for even finer sanding on future projects. In these pics, I have just wiped the dust off with mineral spirits. Pretty cool. Notice in ...

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Part 4: Test Teak oil for finish...Thoughts??

02-09-2012 05:30 PM by junipercanyon | 1 comment »

I forgot to consider the temperatures in my garage this winter and wound up freezing my half full containers of Minwax Tung oil and polycrylic. I managed to save the polycrylic by putting the container in a pot of boiling water for a few minutes and it turned back into a liquid, but the tung oil wouldn’t change back. I went to the store to buy some more, and my eye caught the price difference between tung oil and teak oil, ($19 for tung, $11 for teak) so I decided to try out the teak ...

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