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Juniper free form bowl #3: Finish and begin again!

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Blog entry by junipercanyon posted 05-17-2012 05:57 PM 1111 reads 1 time favorited 4 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 2: Inlays Part 3 of Juniper free form bowl series no next part

This first bowl came out really nice and was a lot of fun to build. Took forever though, about 20hours of work.

Project link with more pics. http://lumberjocks.com/projects/66058

Here is the start to bowl #2. New grinding tools have really sped up the process, these pics are taken at 4hours in to the project.

-- Juniper Canyon Design



4 comments so far

View TZH's profile

TZH

431 posts in 1835 days


#1 posted 05-17-2012 06:02 PM

JC, keep em’ comin’. Would ya mind sharing with us the types of grinding tools you’re using, and how you get the bowls to thickness without goin’ through? Thanks, and great job!

TZH

-- https://www.facebook.com/pages/Dead-Wood-Renaissance/361417090585685

View junipercanyon's profile

junipercanyon

192 posts in 1388 days


#2 posted 05-17-2012 06:48 PM

Sure…. The thickness is all determined on the amount of patience, time, and steady hand you are willing to put into the wood. You can see in one of the photos where I was a little careless with the grinder and got really thin in one spot where you can see light coming through the wood.

The tools I use are chainsaw, Lancelot/Squire chain grinder, Holey Galahad grinder, and a random orbital sander. I bought the grinding tools online at: http://katools.com/ and I can tell you they work great. The Holey Galahad sanders are awesome!

Step 1. Pick your piece of wood.

Step 2. Rough shape with chainsaw.

Step 3. More rough shape with Lancelot/Squire chain grinder. Very cool tool that really throws out some wood chips. BE CAREFUL using it though, two hands, lots of focus!!

Step 4. Start smoothing and thinning sides with Holey Galahad sanders coarse to fine (these work awesome, probably my new favorite tools right now!!)

Step 5. Continue smoothing with 40 and 60grit flap wheel sanders.

Step 6. Begin finish sanding with 60, 80, 120grit orbital sander

Step 7. Move on to filling cracks with stone inlays.

Step 8. Flap wheel sand the inlays flush with the wood.

Step 9. Orbital sander with 120 and 220grit to smooth out the inlays and any other scratches missed.

Step 10. Hand sand with 220, 320, 400, and 600grit.

Step 11. Tung oil finish, buffing with steel wool between coats.

-- Juniper Canyon Design

View jaykaypur's profile

jaykaypur

3401 posts in 1103 days


#3 posted 05-17-2012 09:14 PM

Very nice work. I may have to give something like this a try.

-- Use it up, Wear it out --------------- Make it do, Or do without!

View Bearpie's profile

Bearpie

2591 posts in 1713 days


#4 posted 05-18-2012 01:33 AM

I’m giving this a try with a red cedar block I picked up today while driving home and spotted it out by the street. Made a U turn and loaded it in the back of my van. I had been keeping an eye on this piece for a few years. They lopped the top of the tree off and left about a 5 ft stump and finally they cut it down about 5 years later. I’m not sure how it will come out but I’m trying anyway.

-- Erwin, Jacksonville, FL

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