LumberJocks

Treadle Lathe workbench #10: framing for drawers and cabinet......

Blog entry by jth2bmtsu posted 223 days ago 506 reads 0 times favorited 5 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 9: work surface continues..... Part 10 of Treadle Lathe workbench series no next part

Since I haven’t ever built drawers, it will be interesting to see if my design works. I used some scrap 1×2’s and 1×1s for the drawers railing. Essentially I placed rails for the drawers to slide on and rails on the sides for to keep the drawers sliding straight. It may be difficult to see in the pics but the drawers are deeper than the cabinet to allow room for the treadle arc. See the pics below for more details.

Front view!

drawer railing close-up

drawer railing close-up take 2

Added a peg board to the side to hold mallets and clamps.


Lathe side view. I attached a piece of plywood to keep shavings from entering my drawers and I used some scrap peg board for the back of the cabinet. Thought it would decrease the weight of this monster a bit.


5 comments so far

View TopamaxSurvivor's profile

TopamaxSurvivor

3077 posts in 576 days


posted 223 days ago

Looking good :-)) Keep up the good work. Since you got this far, I’m sure you can build a drawer.

-- Debt is nothing more than the 21st Century's form of slavery.

View kleinjahr's profile

kleinjahr

7 posts in 272 days


posted 206 days ago

Nice build, should work well. Though I am wondering why you put the drive on the right hand side, might have problems with threading on the headstock. You’ll need left hand threads, otherwise you’ll tend to loosen as you turn. That’s the only potentially serious problem I can see. Please note the next bit is a critique, NOT a criticism, you have done a pretty darn good job here. In other words some suggestions for anyone considering building something similar. For a tensioner, I would go with a dogleg/goatleg, basically an L or V shaped arm with a weight on one arm a roller on the other with a pivot at the bend. The weight and length of arm determines the tension applied and is simple to adjust. For a drive, why not use an old bicycle? Keep everything from the pedal/crank to the rear wheel. With a multi speed bike this can give you some impressive rpm and with the derailleurs and sprockets, a quick change gear. Use the rear wheel as the flywheel by filling in around the spokes with cement, the spokes will act like rebar. Attach your treadle to one side of the crank, a belt around the wheel rim to the headstock.

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

17211 posts in 477 days


posted 201 days ago

thanks for sharing

-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop, custom furniture ,maker, woodworking school, heirloomwoodshop.com

View TopamaxSurvivor's profile

TopamaxSurvivor

3077 posts in 576 days


posted 61 days ago

How is this going?? Got it up and running yet??

-- Debt is nothing more than the 21st Century's form of slavery.

View Will Mego's profile

Will Mego

203 posts in 612 days


posted 33 days ago

yeh, give us an update!

-- "That which has in itself the greatest use, possesses the greatest beauty." - Unknown Shaker

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