Treadle Lathe workbench #10: framing for drawers and cabinet......

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Blog entry by jth2bmtsu posted 04-21-2009 04:27 AM 3669 reads 1 time favorited 6 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 9: work surface continues..... Part 10 of Treadle Lathe workbench series no next part

Since I haven’t ever built drawers, it will be interesting to see if my design works. I used some scrap 1×2’s and 1×1s for the drawers railing. Essentially I placed rails for the drawers to slide on and rails on the sides for to keep the drawers sliding straight. It may be difficult to see in the pics but the drawers are deeper than the cabinet to allow room for the treadle arc. See the pics below for more details.

Front view!

drawer railing close-up

drawer railing close-up take 2

Added a peg board to the side to hold mallets and clamps.

Lathe side view. I attached a piece of plywood to keep shavings from entering my drawers and I used some scrap peg board for the back of the cabinet. Thought it would decrease the weight of this monster a bit.

6 comments so far

View TopamaxSurvivor's profile


18290 posts in 3703 days

#1 posted 04-21-2009 04:49 AM

Looking good :-)) Keep up the good work. Since you got this far, I’m sure you can build a drawer.

-- Bob in WW ~ "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

View kleinjahr's profile


8 posts in 3399 days

#2 posted 05-07-2009 10:45 PM

Nice build, should work well. Though I am wondering why you put the drive on the right hand side, might have problems with threading on the headstock. You’ll need left hand threads, otherwise you’ll tend to loosen as you turn. That’s the only potentially serious problem I can see. Please note the next bit is a critique, NOT a criticism, you have done a pretty darn good job here. In other words some suggestions for anyone considering building something similar. For a tensioner, I would go with a dogleg/goatleg, basically an L or V shaped arm with a weight on one arm a roller on the other with a pivot at the bend. The weight and length of arm determines the tension applied and is simple to adjust. For a drive, why not use an old bicycle? Keep everything from the pedal/crank to the rear wheel. With a multi speed bike this can give you some impressive rpm and with the derailleurs and sprockets, a quick change gear. Use the rear wheel as the flywheel by filling in around the spokes with cement, the spokes will act like rebar. Attach your treadle to one side of the crank, a belt around the wheel rim to the headstock.

View a1Jim's profile


117126 posts in 3604 days

#3 posted 05-13-2009 05:56 AM

thanks for sharing

-- wood crafting & woodworking classes

View TopamaxSurvivor's profile


18290 posts in 3703 days

#4 posted 09-29-2009 09:02 PM

How is this going?? Got it up and running yet??

-- Bob in WW ~ "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

View Will Mego's profile

Will Mego

307 posts in 3739 days

#5 posted 10-27-2009 06:37 PM

yeh, give us an update!

-- "That which has in itself the greatest use, possesses the greatest beauty." -

View Woodknack's profile


11805 posts in 2407 days

#6 posted 01-02-2013 07:30 AM

Been almost 4 years since an update, wonder whatever happened?

-- Rick M,

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