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Frame and Panel Doors

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Blog entry by joshtank posted 01-04-2011 10:56 PM 1368 reads 1 time favorited 4 comments Add to Favorites Watch

So i’m fairly new to this woodworking thing. I made some corner shelves, a few small keepsake boxes. I’ve mostly been on the endless journey of setting up the shop properly.

Anyway, half of my garage space is a music room. It has two windows, and I have neighbors. No one ever complains about noise, but I was thinking it’d be the neighborly thing to do to halve these windows be covered when we’re rockin. I also thought maybe then any less-than-neighborly people who ‘happen’ to peer in won’t be able to see the scads of expensive music and recording equipment.

SO I made these. No router and expensive bits, just table saw.

After about a week I realized I hated the orange tinge to the stain, took them down and applied another layer of stain (pictured). I’m happier with that at least… some of the joinery and panels aren’t so great.

Like I said, I have two windows. I just got the next set made up and glued.

I’m already happier with them AND I’ve learned from previous mistakes what sort of things show up when you stain pine. I got the minwax pre stain conditioner, and I’ve read that you shoudl leave it on overnight. I’m not to sure how that will change the color, especially since I used two different stains. If you have any experience with this, let me know.

So, sometimes this week, in-between band practices, I hope to finish these doors and get them up!

If you have any suggestions at all about making doors like these, please chime in!

-- Josh - Jacksonville, FL - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6eXmOxkM10zI0d-njOHeRQ



4 comments so far

View Scott R. Turner's profile

Scott R. Turner

265 posts in 2652 days


#1 posted 01-04-2011 11:14 PM

Flexner says that pre-stain conditioner is usually varnish thinned with mineral spirits. What you’re really doing is putting down a layer of finish so that you can apply the stain on top of the finish rather than directly to the wood. He says:

As with all washcoats, the thinned coating has to be allowed to cure fully before applying the stain. Otherwise the stain simply mixes with the coating, which thins the stain and results in less blotching – but does not eliminate it. With varnish based wood conditioners overnight drying is best before applying the stain…never “within 2 hours” as the directions for these products indicate.

So there you go.

View JKBogle's profile

JKBogle

40 posts in 2402 days


#2 posted 01-04-2011 11:44 PM

Very Nice! Do you have anymore pictures of the build? Im curious to see how you made your stile & rail joints with only a tablesaw.

View GaryL's profile

GaryL

1094 posts in 2294 days


#3 posted 01-04-2011 11:49 PM

I’m assuming the rails and stiles are joined with a basic tongue and groove. If you want to even things out on the color front try adding some toner to your clear coat. I’ve ven used stains mixed into the clear as a toner, then a few coats of clear.

Great idea for shutters. Are the neighbors realizing the benefits yets?

-- Gary; Marysville, MI...Involve your children in your projects as much as possible, the return is priceless.

View Minwax_Kelli's profile

Minwax_Kelli

2 posts in 2063 days


#4 posted 04-14-2011 06:06 PM

Hi JoshTank, this is Kelli, a spokesperson for Minwax. We want to ensure you have a solid answer to your question about the need to apply the stain within two hours of applying the Pre-Stain Conditioner. One definite consequence of waiting longer than the recommended two hours is that the stain color will come out lighter than what it should be. If you have tested the process with longer wait times and are happy with the color, it is OK – we just want you to be aware of it. Let us know if you have any other questions or concerns about using Minwax Pre-Stain Conditioner with Minwax stains. Here is some more information on the topic. Thanks for using Minwax products. http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/wood-preparation/oil-based-pre-stain-wood-conditioner.html

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