1. You may now cut your wood into the proper dimensions, labelling the TOP and the INSIDE. After cutting, I sand mine lightly for a good drawing surface.
2. Scissor cut the outside of the template but do not contour the inside line.
3. Lay the template on the TOP of your block, matching the inside line with the inside edge of your block.
With a square, mark your centre register line on both front and back of the block.
4.Draw around the template.
5. You may now saw the contoured edges only. The reason I leave a solid edge is for cutting the side view on a stable base. It’s easier to carve the inside contours later with our Dremels.
6. Now that you have shaped one side, you may scissor cut the entire template and lay it reversed on the BOTTOM. You will have to see through your paper to match up your register lines.
Draw around the entire shape.
7. Now scissor cut the excess shoe body from the template and retrace just the sole. Don’t forget to add a few boo-boo wood dashes.
8. I’d now like you to cut a strip of paper about 1/2” wide and about 8-10” long. THis is so much more useful than a ruler., and no having to use a calculator to split 1/16” etc.
- You are all doing a left shoe. Don asked me if I was left handed – on the contrary – But most people process information from left to right. If you draw a circle counter clockwise, you too will find it easier to do a left shoe.
9. Lay your paper strip on the toe area of your original shoe, that is the flattest and before the rise.
Make a pencil line on the strip at the tip of the toe.
10. Fold that section of paper in half (voila 50%!) and pencil in the fold line.
Use the paper to mark some distance points on your wood block. You can eyeball it or use any measuring device you choose, I find the paper method to be easy and accurate.
I usually mark it on top then use my square to draw down the side. Working with curves can get weird.
11.Repeat the process measure the height of the same area.(Remember, it’s the highest point we’re interested in.)
12. Now measure (with your paper) from your first point to the highest part of the foot hole-the tongue end.
Fold the paper in half and mark the point from which you will draw a slanted line.
13. At this point, you will have to add about 1/8” thickness for your laces and more for your knot. Not all laces start at the same points of the show but the rise is the same for most basic shoe styles..
I used my little paper to accurately place my knot.
14. Just for one final measurement, use your paper to make sure that the remainder of the wood is 1/2 of what you haven’t measured on your real shoe. If it isn’t, adjust now!
15. You may now saw cut your block of wood with the flat(inside) down. And if you’re very careful, you can nip off the toe and heel contours from the inside – it will save a lot of dust later.
If you are carving a boot, you will have to make one more vertical line to the top of your laces from the top of the instep that we have created from the shoe.
Congratulations, your shoe is now ready to carve!