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Blog entry by Jordan posted 02-19-2010 12:40 AM 1149 reads 0 times favorited 10 comments Add to Favorites Watch



10 comments so far

View Adamas's profile


74 posts in 3103 days

#1 posted 02-19-2010 12:53 AM

Regards Jordan
Maybe to try with the various different tool , circular steel brush or Androlon brushes , finest one are 0000

-- Ivan Ilic

View JAGWAH's profile


929 posts in 3107 days

#2 posted 02-19-2010 01:04 AM

Apply a thin coat of sealer on the end grain to retard the absorption rate. Maybe take a similiar block of basswood to practice on. Maybe seal to lock fibres and sand some more to smooth up to 220. This way you can see if you might not need to seal it all. In anycase the harness would show ware and that might be lightening where it lies around the neck and points where it’s grabbed and place on the animal. It wouldn’t be evenly colored anyway if it’s to look naturally used.

-- ~Just A Guy With A Hammer~

View Don Butler's profile

Don Butler

1092 posts in 3419 days

#3 posted 02-19-2010 01:09 AM

Shellac is a fine pre-satin conditioner to control the color.


-- No trees were damaged in posting this message, but thousands of electrons were seriously inconvenienced.

View woodbutcher's profile


592 posts in 4189 days

#4 posted 02-19-2010 01:26 AM

I would try and sand the endgrain with 220grit if you are stopping at 100grit elsewhere. Try it on a scrap piece first, of course. However, I don’t like to use sanding sealers as they prevent the stain from penetrating into the wood and will show wear much quicker than pieces that were stained naturally. Just remember to finish sand the end grain with quite a bit finer grit and then stain. I hope this helps and that you’ll quickly see on your test piece the different absorption rates this gives you.

Ken McGinnis

-- woodbutcher north carolina

View jlsmith5963's profile


297 posts in 3372 days

#5 posted 02-19-2010 01:51 AM

I agree with the idea of doing tests (lots of them) to see what combination of sanding grits produce what visual results. I also agree with JAGWAH that a ‘natural’ look would have quite a bit of color variation due to wear pattern.

-- criticism: the art of analyzing and evaluating the quality of an artistic work...

View Karson's profile


35125 posts in 4424 days

#6 posted 02-19-2010 02:18 AM

I think that practice pieces will give you an idea of what you can control in the application of stains.

-- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Southern Delaware soon moving to Virginia †

View Jordan's profile


1400 posts in 3148 days

#7 posted 02-19-2010 03:03 AM

A number of good ideas, thank you. Yes, I am sure the wear would be there but I’m good with paint – haven’t tried stain too often. I should be finished next week and will give you a look. Thank you again. I always know where to come.


View woodmight's profile


113 posts in 3080 days

#8 posted 02-19-2010 05:09 AM

Hey Jordan… Cloverdale Paint, H Depot, Ben Moore, all sell wood conditioner.. if it doesnt work as well as you want it apply a second coat of sealer again try it on scrap.

-- ~~ Remember You can't saw... What you can't see ~~

View Rob W's profile

Rob W

434 posts in 3560 days

#9 posted 02-19-2010 03:26 PM

Hi Jordan,

I would use a sanding sealer first and then use a gel stain. Gel stains are a lot easier to control and I have had issues with basswood being a bit blotchy in the past.

-- Rob — I've cut it off twice and it's still too short!,

View Moron's profile


5032 posts in 3917 days

#10 posted 02-19-2010 03:52 PM

I agree with Jagwah and add

after everything is stained,then sealed, you can use glaze to highlight and make shadows.

After doing what Jagwah said. Stain it a golden colour/honey…...seal it, then glaze it with a burnt umber … should comeout nice as you can pull the burnt umber colour off where you want, leave it where you want, then spray coat the whole thing

-- "Good artists borrow, great artists steal”…..Picasso

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