I decided to upgrade the standard fence that was on my Ridgid R4511. Mainly this is because I needed longer rails for an extension (future router table) and never felt the fence/rails that were issued on the saw were substantially stout. 

To start with the rails that are sent with the Delta T2 don’t match the existing holes, I figured this would happen. (I chose the delta since the Steel City Fence that does match this saw was approx $400 that does match the holes exact).
I drilled new holes on the rear rail, and had to go with socket head screws to gain a little clearance on the granite portion. 

Also the front rail wouldn’t match up. I also couldn’t use their (delta rail) and re-drill the holes eithier since that would cause my fence to ride way to high and interfere with the miter slots.
I got a 2.5×2.5 inch angle iron and re-drilled the holes to place the fence just barely above the table. This caused the miter slots to interfere so I ground those areas in the rail down. (as seen in the photos). I had a local machine shop couter sink the holes since I don’t have a bit to do this exact. (used WD-40 while drilling holes to keep the bit cool).


I used Engine Enamel spray paint (Oreilly’s Auto Parts Store) to finish the rail and I scrubbed and sanded the rail for paint) This paint was really nice to work with, it dries extremely fast and creates a very tough and durable finish. Much better than just standard spray paint.

Since my rear rail was higher than Delta’s plan due to my Ridgid saw, I had to perform several Belt Sandings to shave off little amounts of this back glide piece to get the rail just a little about the table saw. It now glides very smooth and sits at the right height.
Also I had to drill and tap 2 new holes in the guide tube to install the on/off switch, I also mounted the new guide tube holes approx. 3/4 inch to the right to allow my measuring tape to be perfectly accurate. 
ROUTER TABLE:
This is currently being used as an extension table, that I will later add a insert plate and mount a router to this.

I ended up gluing ripped down SYP 2×8s to create the carriage base. The top is MDF 3/4 inch topped with lamminate (looks like granite, close color match). I then trimmed it in Red Oak stained ebony.
The hardest part was attaching the front countersunk rail. Longest tapered head I could find was 2 inches, so I had to drill a counter on the inside to reach the screw with a nut. 




Hope everyone has enjoyed this project, I am very happy with the overall outcome. The Delta T2 fence was $156 shipped and the angle iron was about $40. So it was almost half of what the Steel City would have cost before taxes. I am not in rush to add the table mounted router since I am still looking for the best unit for above table adjustment and durabilty.
John P.
















3 comments so far
jeff
home | projects | blog
425 posts in 1636 days
#1 posted 454 days ago
nice upgade John looks great…
-- Jeff,Tucson,Az.
jcwalleye
home | projects | blog
267 posts in 1244 days
#2 posted 451 days ago
Nice John. It looks like you did a great job and I’m sure you will enjoy the upgraded fence. I sure do. It looks like you took the blade guard off the riving knife/splitter.
-- Trees, a wonderful gift --Joe--
john1102
home | projects | blog
54 posts in 839 days
#3 posted 451 days ago
Thanks. I took off the blade guard since it got in the way more than it helped. I then took the riving knife to a grinding wheel to remove the small indents that were sticking out from the sides. By doing this it allows me to get my LEE-CRAFT ZCI inserts on and off without having to go under the saw to remove the riving knife. It also makes blade changes great.
That is why I chose to do this. I feel the safety of the tablesaw comes from the user being aware of their machine and the I am not worried about removing it even though I am sure some would argue otherwise.
John P.
Have your say...