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new shop progress #2: shop lighting

Blog entry by woodnut posted 338 days ago 220 reads 0 times favorited 6 comments Add to Favorites
« Part 1: Shop progress Part 2 of new shop progress series Part 3: electrical »

I was hoping that some of you Lumberjocks could help me out with my lighting question. I am planning on putting in eight 8’ fluorecent lights in the ceiling with the fullspectrum bulbs. My question is will all the colors show up will under these lights or will I need some other form of lighting. I have read that these are the best in the fluorecent line, but would like to here from some of you that have used them.

-- F.Little

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woodnut

110 posts in 534 days


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6 comments so far

View GaryK's profile

GaryK

8482 posts in 470 days


posted 338 days ago

I’m not sure about the colors, but I would use 2 to 3 switches for the lights.
I have 3 rows of lights each on a different switch and use them according to which area of the shop I am working in. Saves electricity!

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

View Todd A. Clippinger's profile

Todd A. Clippinger

2536 posts in 581 days


posted 338 days ago

I have banks of fluorescent lights that contain six 4’ bulbs each. I have big 4’ by 5’ windows to maximize daylight. The lights give off the standard green glow. I have never had a problem matching stain for my jobs. When I bring it in the shop, I make the new parts match what ever I am looking at. If it matches under the lights in the shop, it matches in the light outside, and it matches in the incandescent lighting in a house. Doing stain matches can be an art in itself.

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://amcraftsman.com

View douginaz's profile

douginaz

51 posts in 484 days


posted 338 days ago

I’m with Gary, I really don’t know if the lights will or won’t show all the colors. I have a shop full of fluorecents but I rely on an incandescent to show sanding and finishing flaws and good ole sol to see the true colors. I use the overheads because they eliminate most shadows, for me, this makes following lines much easier.
Good luck and let us know how you fair.
Later,
Doug in AZ.

-- Failure is not an option.

View Todd A. Clippinger's profile

Todd A. Clippinger

2536 posts in 581 days


posted 338 days ago

Here is the most important thing. Your breakers should only be loaded to 80% of capacity. A 20 amp breaker should be loaded to 16 amps. Fluorescent light ballast tend to run the breakers hot. My electricians only load breakers to 70% for fluorescent lighting. A 20 amp breaker would only be loaded to 14 amps in that case.

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://amcraftsman.com

View Sawdust2's profile

Sawdust2

847 posts in 569 days


posted 337 days ago

I highly recommend T-8 bulbs instead of the more common T-12.

They are considerably more expensive up front but they have three advantages that I can think of:
Bulbs last 20,000 hours
There is no warm up time and no buzz
The 835 bulb will give you closest to daylight

The lighting people tell me that they are less expensive to operate but I have no way to verify that.

There was an article in FWW (#154) within the last three years about shop lighting.

IMHO I would shy away from the $8 shop light sold at borg and lowes but I have truly been spoiled by the R-8 lights
I also use site specifixc lighting at my lathe and bandsaw.

-- No piece is cut too short. It was meant for a smaller project.

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woodnut

110 posts in 534 days


posted 337 days ago

Thanks to everyone that replied. Todd I will tell my electrician about the breaker size. Sawdust I was planning on going with the fullspectrum bulbs which are $70.00 for a box of 10 how much more are the T-8 bulbs.

-- F.Little

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